Author Topic: Roof transport in summer  (Read 4516 times)

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #30 on: April 06, 2019, 12:29:18 PM »
s4e...  I wouldn't worry too much, the forces able to break the board likely would also be giving your car the 'fits'.  I had a young lady buy a practice shell from me a few years ago.  Her first drive with it on her roof was 500+ miles back to Buffalo NY.  I made her a bridle so the boat would not start to 'helicopter' at 70mph  ..and a couple of other bits. 

I do not think you would need anything as complete but, I'd be happy to make you the front hood bits and a cinch if you rode fin-forward   ...a freebie, 'friend of the forum' discount, so I don't break any advertising rules. (besides, I am not interested in making more)

Jim

Thats an impressive rig!  You made those tie-downs??  Cool!  Id love to have one-Ill pm you.
One of my Q-towers is so old that it wont lock anymore, soIkm scouring Craigslist to find some used ones.  I have 2 new ones and 2 old ones.

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #31 on: April 06, 2019, 12:31:03 PM »
@ spirit4earth

I have my old Thule kayak roof racks with two, 58" long steel bars. These racks (with bars) are fitted to the roof of the cab of my 2001 Chevy Silverado. From the outside edge on one steel bar to the outside edge of the second steel bar, the distance is 29".

Over these two steel bars, I have a pair of 42" soft roof rack pads that fit over both steel bars so they don't cause any damage to my 11'1" board. I place my sup deck pad side down on the soft roof rack pads so my fins stick straight up towards the sky. The tail end (with fins) of my board is over my windshield.

The two tie downs I use to secure the board to the steel bars are a pair of Kanulocks. I cinch the straps of each Kanulock "snugly" so the board does not move, but the straps aren't "strangling" my board either. If you tighten the straps too tightly, you can damage the rails of the board

I have no problem going down the highway to Surfside, Texas with my 11'1" sup, traveling the 117 miles from my home to Surfside, at a speed of 70 mph.

Thats great!  Do you have the board centered on the bars, or is more of it going over the bed of your truck?  I have some of those crossbar pads, too, which Ill use on longer trips. 

Night Wing

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2401
  • Piney Woods of Southeast Texas
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #32 on: April 06, 2019, 04:02:36 PM »
@ spirit4earth

My 11'1" board is "mostly" centered on the bars because when I travel to go sup surfing, I travel with the 4 fins attached to the tail end of the board so the tail end of the board is heavier than the nose end.

Since the light is fading fast where live, I'll try and get a photo of it so my strap tying won't be how I normally do it. But you'll get the idea.

Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters

Night Wing

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2401
  • Piney Woods of Southeast Texas
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #33 on: April 06, 2019, 04:46:01 PM »
@ spirit4earth

Well, I had to race the fading light of day and a fast approaching thunderstorm. Below is a photo of my 11'1" One World resting on the soft roof rack pads attached and tied to the roof racks (via my Kanulocks) on the cab roof of my truck.

Since I can't preview the size of the attachment, this photo will either be too small, too big or "just right" as Goldilocks would say.  ;)  So here goes.

Looks like the photo took. And if you left click on the photo, it will enlarge a little larger.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2019, 04:51:47 PM by Night Wing »
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #34 on: April 06, 2019, 04:49:47 PM »
@ spirit4earth

Well, I had to race the fading light of day and a fast approaching thunderstorm. Below is a photo of my 11'1" One World resting on the soft roof rack pads attached and tied to the roof racks (via my Kanulocks) on the cab roof of my truck.

Since I can't preview the size of the attachment, this photo will either be too small, too big or "just right" as Goldilocks would say.  ;)  So here goes.

That looks good!  It appears to be pretty much centered on the racks.  Good to know theres no problem with air lifting the front end.  Nice truck, too!  Im going to check out the straps, as well.

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #35 on: April 06, 2019, 04:52:29 PM »
Night Wing, it. Looks like those straps cant be tied around themselves on the outside of the lock.  Is that true?

Night Wing

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2401
  • Piney Woods of Southeast Texas
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #36 on: April 06, 2019, 04:59:20 PM »
Night Wing, it. Looks like those straps cant be tied around themselves on the outside of the lock.  Is that true?

They can be tied on the outside of the locks. My Kanulocks straps, each one is 13' long. In this photo, I had to hurry because of the fast approaching thunderstorm so attention to "small details" had to take a back seat to the lightning from the thunderstorm.

Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #37 on: April 06, 2019, 05:07:48 PM »
Night Wing, it. Looks like those straps cant be tied around themselves on the outside of the lock.  Is that true?

They can be tied on the outside of the locks. My Kanulocks straps, each one is 13' long. In this photo, I had to hurry because of the fast approaching thunderstorm so attention to "small details" had to take a back seat to the lightning from the thunderstorm.

Understood!  ⚡️⚡️

jsb

  • Waikiki Status
  • *
  • Posts: 23
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #38 on: April 07, 2019, 09:23:21 AM »
s4e...  I wouldn't worry too much, the forces able to break the board likely would also be giving your car the 'fits'.  I had a young lady buy a practice shell from me a few years ago.  Her first drive with it on her roof was 500+ miles back to Buffalo NY.  I made her a bridle so the boat would not start to 'helicopter' at 70mph  ..and a couple of other bits. 

I do not think you would need anything as complete but, I'd be happy to make you the front hood bits and a cinch if you rode fin-forward   ...a freebie, 'friend of the forum' discount, so I don't break any advertising rules. (besides, I am not interested in making more)

Jim

Jim-

That's a pretty slick setup.  I need to build something similar for myself, as my roof bars are only spaced 30" apart.  Until this past spring, I was driving a 2001 Civic, which had tie-downs built into the frame, but I now have a 2013 Outback, and there's no place to secure bow and stern tie-downs. 

It's hard to tell from the photos -- are the attachments that go under the front hood and the rear hatch:

   1.  A loop, that loops around the hood/hatch?
   2.  Two separate "plugs", that are big enough that they can't be pulled through the cracks when the hood/hatch are closed?

Either way, is there a commercial source for this part of the build, or did you make them from scratch?

Thanks,
Jon

Quickbeam

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 908
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #39 on: April 07, 2019, 09:42:49 AM »
s4e...  I wouldn't worry too much, the forces able to break the board likely would also be giving your car the 'fits'.  I had a young lady buy a practice shell from me a few years ago.  Her first drive with it on her roof was 500+ miles back to Buffalo NY.  I made her a bridle so the boat would not start to 'helicopter' at 70mph  ..and a couple of other bits. 

I do not think you would need anything as complete but, I'd be happy to make you the front hood bits and a cinch if you rode fin-forward   ...a freebie, 'friend of the forum' discount, so I don't break any advertising rules. (besides, I am not interested in making more)

Jim

Jim-

That's a pretty slick setup.  I need to build something similar for myself, as my roof bars are only spaced 30" apart.  Until this past spring, I was driving a 2001 Civic, which had tie-downs built into the frame, but I now have a 2013 Outback, and there's no place to secure bow and stern tie-downs. 

It's hard to tell from the photos -- are the attachments that go under the front hood and the rear hatch:

   1.  A loop, that loops around the hood/hatch?
   2.  Two separate "plugs", that are big enough that they can't be pulled through the cracks when the hood/hatch are closed?

Either way, is there a commercial source for this part of the build, or did you make them from scratch?

Thanks,
Jon

Hi jsb. Re your question on attachments that go under the hood and the back hatch of Wetstuffs vehicle. Im not sure exactly what he is using, but I have very similar attachments I use for my kayak tie downs. The ones I have were available commercially but I cant remember where I got them. Ive had them for a number of years and think I bought them online from a sporting goods store in Seattle. Sorry I cant be more helpful than that. The ones I have, have a loop on one end and a grommet on the other. On the grommet end, you just bolt it down somewhere under the hood and then the loop end comes out of the hood and you string your tie down through it.

O.K., Google is great. I found them. Here are the ones I've got (https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS). Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2019, 09:44:53 AM by Quickbeam »
ONE SUP Edge Pro 12' 6" x 22"
ONE SUP Evo 12 6 x 24
Infinity Whiplash 12' 6" x 24 1/2"
ONE SUP Evo 12 6 x 26
Bark Competitor 12 6 x 29
Red Paddle Explorer (Inflatable) 13' 2" x 30
Red Paddle Race (Inflatable) 12 6 x 30

ZRE Power Surge ZX4, Kevlar braided shaft (75)

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #40 on: April 07, 2019, 09:48:29 AM »
s4e...  I wouldn't worry too much, the forces able to break the board likely would also be giving your car the 'fits'.  I had a young lady buy a practice shell from me a few years ago.  Her first drive with it on her roof was 500+ miles back to Buffalo NY.  I made her a bridle so the boat would not start to 'helicopter' at 70mph  ..and a couple of other bits. 

I do not think you would need anything as complete but, I'd be happy to make you the front hood bits and a cinch if you rode fin-forward   ...a freebie, 'friend of the forum' discount, so I don't break any advertising rules. (besides, I am not interested in making more)

Jim

Jim-

That's a pretty slick setup.  I need to build something similar for myself, as my roof bars are only spaced 30" apart.  Until this past spring, I was driving a 2001 Civic, which had tie-downs built into the frame, but I now have a 2013 Outback, and there's no place to secure bow and stern tie-downs. 

It's hard to tell from the photos -- are the attachments that go under the front hood and the rear hatch:

   1.  A loop, that loops around the hood/hatch?
   2.  Two separate "plugs", that are big enough that they can't be pulled through the cracks when the hood/hatch are closed?

Either way, is there a commercial source for this part of the build, or did you make them from scratch?

Thanks,
Jon

Hi jsb. Re your question on attachments that go under the hood and the back hatch of Wetstuffs vehicle. Im not sure exactly what he is using, but I have very similar attachments I use for my kayak tie downs. The ones I have were available commercially but I cant remember where I got them. Ive had them for a number of years and think I bought them online from a sporting goods store in Seattle. Sorry I cant be more helpful than that. The ones I have, have a loop on one end and a grommet on the other. On the grommet end, you just bolt it down somewhere under the hood and then the loop end comes out of the hood and you string your tie down through it.

O.K., Google is great. I found them. Here are the ones I've got (https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS). Hope this helps.

Yakima makes something that works, too.

Im interested in the part that goes over the board to hold nose and tail.  Very cool!

Wetstuff

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1604
    • View Profile
    • Wetstuff
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #41 on: April 07, 2019, 11:39:07 AM »
Thanks, s4e and John.  I'll whip up a pair tomorrow. They are pretty simple when you see them  ...even w/o proper tools.

Jim

...thanks to NW, I won't worry about 'previews'. 

...but, one should not pass up an opportunity to start a fight...   NW, I think traditional strapping is perhaps wrong.

My Acura wagon and MB SUV bars are spaced ~40", but that's not terribly important.   I'd guess 95% of the time (with only one board) I do not strap the rear.*  Rather, I double strap the front crossbar. (I make my straps) The board does not move, so I found a rear strap unnecessary for the 45min ride there-n-back.

*A few years ago, I used a rear bungee to keep it centered, like on this piece of floating tarmac   ...'not really needed.

Jim

Sunova Skate XL .. Blue Planet MultiTasker ..   Atlantis Venom

spirit4earth

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 874
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #42 on: April 07, 2019, 11:46:01 AM »
Thanks, s4e and John.  I'll whip up a pair tomorrow. They are pretty simple when you see them  ...even w/o proper tools.

Jim

...thanks to NW, I won't worry about 'previews'. 

...but, one should not pass up an opportunity to start a fight...   NW, I think traditional strapping is perhaps wrong.

My Acura wagon and MB SUV bars are spaced ~40", but that's not terribly important.   I'd guess 95% of the time (with only one board) I do not strap the rear.*  Rather, I double strap the front crossbar. (I make my straps) The board does not move, so I found a rear strap unnecessary for the 45min ride there-n-back.

*A few years ago, I used a rear bungee to keep it centered, like on this piece of floating tarmac   ...'not really needed.

Jim

Jim, if anyone is reading this thread, I think youll get some responses about that!

jsb

  • Waikiki Status
  • *
  • Posts: 23
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #43 on: April 07, 2019, 02:04:14 PM »

O.K., Google is great. I found them. Here are the ones I've got (https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS). Hope this helps.

Quickbeam-

Mahalo for taking the extra time to look that up.  I appreciate it!

Jon

Quickbeam

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 908
    • View Profile
Re: Roof transport in summer
« Reply #44 on: April 07, 2019, 02:29:43 PM »

O.K., Google is great. I found them. Here are the ones I've got (https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS). Hope this helps.

Quickbeam-

Mahalo for taking the extra time to look that up.  I appreciate it!

Jon

You're welcome. Hope they work for you!
ONE SUP Edge Pro 12' 6" x 22"
ONE SUP Evo 12 6 x 24
Infinity Whiplash 12' 6" x 24 1/2"
ONE SUP Evo 12 6 x 26
Bark Competitor 12 6 x 29
Red Paddle Explorer (Inflatable) 13' 2" x 30
Red Paddle Race (Inflatable) 12 6 x 30

ZRE Power Surge ZX4, Kevlar braided shaft (75)