Author Topic: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...  (Read 2280 times)

TallDude

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #15 on: March 10, 2019, 03:41:31 PM »
Stop the CF on the line you need and let the glass lap a little. The lap should disappear. With this method you don't have to worry about fairing any CF edges.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2019, 03:46:11 PM by TallDude »

outcast

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #16 on: March 10, 2019, 06:29:03 PM »
Laid down some serious cloth today
Had to laugh.........because although this thread is great, it's all just fun and games until you bump up against  pot life...it was a scramble to keep it all flowing! 

Pics to follow when FrankenFoil is complete   3 more weeks at  2 hours/week  (teenagers rule the roost)
Too many for the rack
Some in the shack
Some under decks
Some have straps

magentawave

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2019, 08:21:56 PM »
Stop the CF on the line you need and let the glass lap a little. The lap should disappear. With this method you don't have to worry about fairing any CF edges.

Oh crap, I totally forgot about that part of the video! Thanks. Jimmy is covering the carbon with a deckpad so the frayed edge won't matter. In my case, the edge of the carbon will be visible so I want a clean edge that might only require a little touch up (along the edge) with black acrylic paint BEFORE I lay down the 4 oz.

So, I'm back to the second question I axed when I started this thread...  Can I fair a clean line along the masking tape with 5.7 oz carbon that will crack away from the tapes edge like the fiberglass does in Jimmy's video? If you guys aren't confident of that then I guess I'll have to experiment on a piece of foam here.


Laid down some serious cloth today
Had to laugh.........because although this thread is great, it's all just fun and games until you bump up against  pot life...it was a scramble to keep it all flowing! 

Pics to follow when FrankenFoil is complete   3 more weeks at  2 hours/week  (teenagers rule the roost)

The dude abides. 8)
8' x 28" x 4.25" - Brawner (13 lbs)
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
9-2' x 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova (15 lbs)

TallDude

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2019, 08:45:25 PM »
Laid down some serious cloth today
Had to laugh.........because although this thread is great, it's all just fun and games until you bump up against  pot life...it was a scramble to keep it all flowing! 

Pics to follow when FrankenFoil is complete   3 more weeks at  2 hours/week  (teenagers rule the roost)
You've got 20 minutes. A little more or less depending on how thin you keep. Most people (me included when I did my first glassing project) think that you just mix up some epoxy and slowly pour it on as needed. But there is so much more going on then meets the eye. By keeping the epoxy thin, meaning out of the mixing bucket, you reduce thermal reaction happening because of the volume of epoxy in the bucket. I smoked a few buckets leaving an inch or more of epoxy in them and then turning my back. You'll see smoke for sure. Like all experience glassers, the motion of pouring most of the bucket out on the board then pushing it around (actually spreading it thin) slows the kick time and gives you more time to work with it. You see Jimmy lose more on the floor than I would, but he's optimizing his time at the sacrifice of losing some extra epoxy. I could watch Jimmy's videos over and over, and each time I learn something new. It's the subtle stuff. Did you notice the micro-balloons he was adding?

TallDude

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2019, 09:16:35 PM »
Here's a little CF to CF finish repair I did a while ago. It's not even the same weave but it still looks fine.

https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,31914.0.html

outcast

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2019, 05:39:32 AM »
TD...
  "go with what you know" didn't apply
   I moved the whole production inside because yesterday was such clammy weather, so i bumped the ambient temp up 15 degrees.
   That was enough to start the kick-off a little early.
 
   Everything worked out, but i was definitely fumbling to get it all wetted out

   I definitely keep the total volume of the pot down at all times....but one more subtlety from the JL vid is he seems to add both parts to the pot....just doesn't mix it until he's all set....  so it sit's like a Mai Tai floater for a bit....I don't have that much courage...and yeah...quick scoop out of a bucket for the microballoons is laughable compared to my  prep....but i def think that stuff shouldn't be in your lungs and am way more cautious, as i often see it floating around....but every little step is time
Too many for the rack
Some in the shack
Some under decks
Some have straps

outcast

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2019, 07:30:34 AM »
 Magenta
  You can fair a clean line with the CF, but those fibers are stronger, and yeah they can be a bit more brittle.  so some may lift   The weave is too big won't be super straight   If you do go that way imho a  finer grit, and wear a mask.
  I still dont think you are seeing get the whole glass veil thing...it's just sacrificial ....it will help hold the CF down and fill some of the weave gaps  make  it a smother sand down  even if you ran the veil over the masking tape
  Or use filler
Too many for the rack
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Some under decks
Some have straps

surfcowboy

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2019, 08:22:17 PM »
Kicking early is a bear. I use heavy duty paper plates to hold my resin as soon as I have it mixed. Helps a bit. Also Iíve had no ill effects from the multi batch method TD talks about. Mix as you go, works fine. I do longboards in two batches. Way more chill.

magentawave

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #23 on: March 11, 2019, 09:15:03 PM »
Magenta
  You can fair a clean line with the CF, but those fibers are stronger, and yeah they can be a bit more brittle.  so some may lift   The weave is too big won't be super straight   If you do go that way imho a  finer grit, and wear a mask.
  I still dont think you are seeing get the whole glass veil thing...it's just sacrificial ....it will help hold the CF down and fill some of the weave gaps  make  it a smother sand down  even if you ran the veil over the masking tape
  Or use filler

I'm definitely doing a veil. I just shaped a rail on a scrap chunk of EPS to experiment with fairing the carbon up to the edge of the masking tape like Jimmy did with fiberglass cloth - and guess what? The frikkin carbon blacks out the tape which means I can't find the edge to fair. That means the Jimmy method won't work. :o Back to the drawing board to think up a way to get a clean edge...

Just thinking here, but instead of using a single piece of carbon that covers the bottom and wraps around the rail to a little past where the edge of the deckpad starts, I might do this using one piece of carbon for the bottom that's approx 60" x 29" and then do the wrap around each rail with two more pieces of carbon. Should be okay if I overlap them a bit and do the Jimmy "bagging" method, eh?
8' x 28" x 4.25" - Brawner (13 lbs)
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
9-2' x 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova (15 lbs)

Bulky

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2019, 12:16:28 PM »
this is such a great video series, but watching JL work on boards is a bit like watching a really skilled demonstration guy with a Ginzu knife.  Makes it look so easy you plunk your money down and end up in the ER getting 30 stitches before the check even clears.   ;)

Question on another part of the build:  Is there a reason why he doesn't set the handle in high density foam?  Would this be overkill?
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magentawave

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2019, 01:01:11 PM »
this is such a great video series, but watching JL work on boards is a bit like watching a really skilled demonstration guy with a Ginzu knife.  Makes it look so easy you plunk your money down and end up in the ER getting 30 stitches before the check even clears.   ;)

Question on another part of the build:  Is there a reason why he doesn't set the handle in high density foam?  Would this be overkill?

Because unlike fin boxes that get slammed and tweaked from the board falling down or hitting a reef or the beach, there's really no pressure on the deck handle. If you put a layer of cloth on top of the deck handle then I see no reason why it needs high density foam. Having said that, I doubt there are very few custom sup builders that surround even the fin boxes with high density foam unless you're willing to pay extra for it.
8' x 28" x 4.25" - Brawner (13 lbs)
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
9-2' x 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova (15 lbs)

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2019, 04:48:03 PM »
this is such a great video series, but watching JL work on boards is a bit like watching a really skilled demonstration guy with a Ginzu knife.  Makes it look so easy you plunk your money down and end up in the ER getting 30 stitches before the check even clears.   ;)

Question on another part of the build:  Is there a reason why he doesn't set the handle in high density foam?  Would this be overkill?

Because unlike fin boxes that get slammed and tweaked from the board falling down or hitting a reef or the beach, there's really no pressure on the deck handle. If you put a layer of cloth on top of the deck handle then I see no reason why it needs high density foam. Having said that, I doubt there are very few custom sup builders that surround even the fin boxes with high density foam unless you're willing to pay extra for it.

As far as I understand Marko Foam offer that option when they cut your blank including machining the space of the fin box into the HD foam. Can someone corroborate?
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magentawave

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #27 on: March 15, 2019, 06:35:42 PM »
this is such a great video series, but watching JL work on boards is a bit like watching a really skilled demonstration guy with a Ginzu knife.  Makes it look so easy you plunk your money down and end up in the ER getting 30 stitches before the check even clears.   ;)

Question on another part of the build:  Is there a reason why he doesn't set the handle in high density foam?  Would this be overkill?

Because unlike fin boxes that get slammed and tweaked from the board falling down or hitting a reef or the beach, there's really no pressure on the deck handle. If you put a layer of cloth on top of the deck handle then I see no reason why it needs high density foam. Having said that, I doubt there are very few custom sup builders that surround even the fin boxes with high density foam unless you're willing to pay extra for it.

As far as I understand Marko Foam offer that option when they cut your blank including machining the space of the fin box into the HD foam. Can someone corroborate?

Having denser foam that doesn't suck up water around the fin boxes would be a great option!
8' x 28" x 4.25" - Brawner (13 lbs)
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
9-2' x 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova (15 lbs)

TallDude

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #28 on: March 15, 2019, 06:45:18 PM »
this is such a great video series, but watching JL work on boards is a bit like watching a really skilled demonstration guy with a Ginzu knife.  Makes it look so easy you plunk your money down and end up in the ER getting 30 stitches before the check even clears.   ;)

Question on another part of the build:  Is there a reason why he doesn't set the handle in high density foam?  Would this be overkill?

Because unlike fin boxes that get slammed and tweaked from the board falling down or hitting a reef or the beach, there's really no pressure on the deck handle. If you put a layer of cloth on top of the deck handle then I see no reason why it needs high density foam. Having said that, I doubt there are very few custom sup builders that surround even the fin boxes with high density foam unless you're willing to pay extra for it.

As far as I understand Marko Foam offer that option when they cut your blank including machining the space of the fin box into the HD foam. Can someone corroborate?

Having denser foam that doesn't suck up water around the fin boxes would be a great option!
They'll do just about anything you want if you call them.

https://markofoamblanks.com/pages/hydrofoil

Bulky

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Re: Question about how Jimmy Lewis faired the overlap in this video...
« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2019, 12:29:34 PM »

Because unlike fin boxes that get slammed and tweaked from the board falling down or hitting a reef or the beach, there's really no pressure on the deck handle. If you put a layer of cloth on top of the deck handle then I see no reason why it needs high density foam. Having said that, I doubt there are very few custom sup builders that surround even the fin boxes with high density foam unless you're willing to pay extra for it.

Thanks.  Makes sense, it would add significant time to the build to do hi-density surrounds.  I've just got it on the brain because that's my most common repair.  I'm pretty careful with my equipment but I do paddle my boards alot.  It's only a matter of time before hairlines cracks develop around the fin box and then the only way to really fix them is to pull the box and set a new one in HDfoam (which I guess isn't adding much time at this point when you're already needing to remove the leaking box.)

This has caused me to get even more careful with hard landings, placing the board on the fins and especially removing click-in fins unless I really need to.  Used to put those in and take them out every time I paddled but the repeated torque caused by that little operation can only hurry things along in a spot where failure is inevitable.
Santa Barbara, CA

Infinity Blackfish 14'
King's 14'
Naish Glide 14' (2012)
SupSports Hammer 8'11
Starboard WidePoint 10'5
Ke Nalu Mana, Konihi, Maliko