Author Topic: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards  (Read 11500 times)

Surfside

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #105 on: April 10, 2019, 04:40:52 AM »
Glad to hear it's almost there! Capping the holes in mine today and hopefully riding it tomorrow. That tent could produce a lot of heat. My friend used that to heat and bend an old plastic windsurfer a long time ago....watch the temp!
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magentawave

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #106 on: April 10, 2019, 10:56:39 AM »
Glad to hear it's almost there! Capping the holes in mine today and hopefully riding it tomorrow. That tent could produce a lot of heat. My friend used that to heat and bend an old plastic windsurfer a long time ago....watch the temp!

Yes, for sure! I would use the black tent method on cool days only. Thanks for all of your help here with the picture of how you did it and the link with instructions on how to reverse it.

By the way, if the holes you drill in your board are slightly smaller than the diameter of the plastic tubing then there's no need to glue the tube to the board.
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9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
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Surfside

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #107 on: April 10, 2019, 12:41:08 PM »
By the way, if the holes you drill in your board are slightly smaller than the diameter of the plastic tubing then there's no need to glue the tube to the board.

Awesome, I'll do that next time. Thanks
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Beasho

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #108 on: April 12, 2019, 02:33:13 PM »
Slow and Steady seems to be working.
The board lady suggested that THROUGHPUT would be necessary.  I have 2 holes in the bottom of the board 15/64" and ONE at the top of the board.

It appears as though the weight is dropping at a rate of 1/10 lbs per day for the last 5 days. . . .

Yes - Drill 15/64" Holes.  The inexpensive irrigation tubing is 1/4" and makes a snug fit into the hole.  No need for tape or glue.

Then the 1/4" dowel fits in tight.  I used Gorilla glue on the dowel with a touch of Epoxy to seal it up on the top.  Cover with Clear tape until dry.

sflinux

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #109 on: May 10, 2019, 08:27:37 AM »
Beasho, I love all of your posts.  Thank you so much for contributing your posts to this forum, please keep it up.
1) Dehumidifier
How about a dehumidifier? I remember seeing someone using this with success.
https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/drying-out-waterlogged-board-repair
One thing that could be going on with a heater (or daytime sunlight), is you are effectively drying the air. 
I picture a box that you put the board, dehumifier, and vacuum inside.  With a vacuum, and "dry box" the equilibrium of "wet" vapor inside the board, will push that to evaporate faster.  I would think this would be gentler on the board, and possibly use less energy.  Be curious as to which is more effective.
2) Rinse the damaged area.
I read somewhere else that if you have a water inside, if it is salt water, you want to rinse it with fresh water, to help dilute the salt crystals.  Then dry the board after, else you will be left with salt crystals inside the board, which will add to the weight, and more importantly will not bind to resin.
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blackeye

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #110 on: May 10, 2019, 11:05:38 AM »

...2) Rinse the damaged area.
I read somewhere else that if you have a water inside, if it is salt water, you want to rinse it with fresh water, to help dilute the salt crystals.  Then dry the board after, else you will be left with salt crystals inside the board, which will add to the weight, and more importantly will not bind to resin.

I hope others are saying that and not just me. I also propose to do a second rinse with alcohol of some strength, which should not damage anything inside the board (except uncured epoxy). Then the vacuuming. The evaporation should be far faster and more complete than with fresh water.

magentawave

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #111 on: May 10, 2019, 07:34:10 PM »
Beasho, I love all of your posts.  Thank you so much for contributing your posts to this forum, please keep it up.
2) Rinse the damaged area.
I read somewhere else that if you have a water inside, if it is salt water, you want to rinse it with fresh water, to help dilute the salt crystals.  Then dry the board after, else you will be left with salt crystals inside the board, which will add to the weight, and more importantly will not bind to resin.

I'm not sure what you're suggesting here because you're going to sand the damaged area and wipe with acetone or alcohol before proceeding with the resin anyway.



Slow and Steady seems to be working.
Then the 1/4" dowel fits in tight.  I used Gorilla glue on the dowel with a touch of Epoxy to seal it up on the top.  Cover with Clear tape until dry.

What's the point of bothering with a dowel when you can use tootsie roll epoxy instead?
8' x 28" x 4.25" - Brawner (13 lbs)
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
9-2' x 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova (15 lbs)

jrandy

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #112 on: May 11, 2019, 05:00:59 AM »
No good reason for acetone around EPS and epoxy.
-Acetone eats/melts/wrecks EPS
-Acetone is linked to epoxy allergies as part of the delivery mechanism
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eastbound

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #113 on: May 13, 2019, 04:50:29 AM »
wow--the salt crystals problem is a whole new issue--ive never heard of anyone rinsing the interior of a board with water, let alone alcohol--seems weve all been living with salt in our repaired boards

non sequitur: i keep a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol in the car--spray my feet between the toes after a surf--prevents cheese/fungal build up after being in booties for a few hours--dries the feet before putting in shoes/socks
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Beasho

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #114 on: May 13, 2019, 07:01:24 AM »
What's the point of bothering with a dowel when you can use tootsie roll epoxy instead?

The dowel with Gorilla glue is structural and fills the hole succinctly and is fast.  Probably waterproof but I wouldn't totally trust it.

Epoxy stick would work but a touch overkill and messier.  I prefer to stick the dowel in 1/16" too deep.  Then cover with a dab of colored epoxy and top it off with clear packaging tape overnight.  Clean look and solid.

Beasho

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #115 on: May 13, 2019, 07:04:10 AM »
wow--the salt crystals problem is a whole new issue--ive never heard of anyone rinsing the interior of a board with water, let alone alcohol--seems weve all been living with salt in our repaired boards

IF I was going to rinse I would probably use distilled water.  It would LAP up the salt and with the vacuum could be immediately sucked back out of the hole.  I have found the vacuum to be VERY effective on new dings.  It takes no time (e.g. less than a day) to suck out 'fresh' ding water.

magentawave

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #116 on: May 13, 2019, 01:28:36 PM »
wow--the salt crystals problem is a whole new issue--ive never heard of anyone rinsing the interior of a board with water, let alone alcohol--seems weve all been living with salt in our repaired boards

Nah, the amount of salt crystals left behind is so infinitesimal and would contribute literally nothing to the weight. As long as the resin adheres then I wouldn't give it a second thought.



What's the point of bothering with a dowel when you can use tootsie roll epoxy instead?

The dowel with Gorilla glue is structural and fills the hole succinctly and is fast.  Probably waterproof but I wouldn't totally trust it.

Epoxy stick would work but a touch overkill and messier.  I prefer to stick the dowel in 1/16" too deep.  Then cover with a dab of colored epoxy and top it off with clear packaging tape overnight.  Clean look and solid.

Tootsie roll epoxy for filling the two holes is super easy, fast - and CLEAN. No procuring of dowels, gorilla glue and epoxy. No cutting dowels and applying gorilla glue and epoxy and no sanding. With the tootsie roll, you cut a piece > mix between thumb and index finger > jam into hole > smooth with a wet finger > DONE. It's easy to drill out later too. If you want to match the color then you can "countersink" the tootsie roll epoxy a 1/16" and fill with matching epoxy. Try it sometime. It's way less work. ;)



8' x 28" x 4.25" - Brawner (13 lbs)
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 29" x 4" x 124 Liters - Hobie custom (15 lbs)
9-2' x 29" x 3 7/8" - Sunova (15 lbs)

eastbound

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #117 on: May 13, 2019, 01:42:25 PM »
tootsie roll epoxy=plumber's epoxy

super handy stuff--glove up and push it where it needs to go--wet the glove and smooth it even--tho ive always used it for small fills, and reshaping crunched rail tail etc, and then glassed over--ive rolled it into a little snake and slipped it into a seam crack at the rail/bottom edge--you can push it just right to handle the glass without a bulge or dent--

but i always glass over

i am a creation of the zone, and always got impression that, to know it'll stay dry, gotta glass over

i worry about a plug working loose

i only use gorilla glue for bigger voids, where it too excels
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Bean

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #118 on: May 13, 2019, 01:46:42 PM »
wow--the salt crystals problem is a whole new issue--ive never heard of anyone rinsing the interior of a board with water, let alone alcohol--seems weve all been living with salt in our repaired boards

IF I was going to rinse I would probably use distilled water.  It would LAP up the salt and with the vacuum could be immediately sucked back out of the hole.  I have found the vacuum to be VERY effective on new dings.  It takes no time (e.g. less than a day) to suck out 'fresh' ding water.

Absolutely, the water doesn't get a chance to migrate throughout the EPS.

blackeye

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Re: Build a Vacuum System to Dry Boards
« Reply #119 on: May 13, 2019, 06:48:10 PM »

IF I was going to rinse I would probably use distilled water.  It would LAP up the salt and with the vacuum could be immediately sucked back out of the hole.  I have found the vacuum to be VERY effective on new dings.  It takes no time (e.g. less than a day) to suck out 'fresh' ding water.

IF I was going to rinse I would skip the fresh water and use alcohol. It usually has water in it and will carry away salt, AND evaporate readily.