Author Topic: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........  (Read 10544 times)

devon_sup_surf

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Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« on: October 14, 2018, 03:21:48 PM »
Hi guys

After a fun but frustrating session today I think I have to admit I have gone a little too advanced on the board front too quickly.

I have been sup surfing regularly for 3 years. If there's surf I go. And living in the south west of England this probably averages once a week over the year, but more sporadicly- with no surf for weeks on end over the summer and multiple times a week when the swells are working.

Typical conditions are reasonable swell- chest to well overhead- 9-12s period, usually with surface chop and onshore or crossshore winds of varying strengths.

I'm 6'1 and 97kg. 210lbs. More on this later

Below is my board history

Jimmy Lewis Cruise control 11' 165L lovely board. Sold on after 6 months but served a purpose well

Laird 10'6 155L much more advanced than the board above. Lasted me 18 months. Rock stable by the end. But it was very heavy. Coped ok with big waves but it was a big beast to handle. Broke a lot of leashes.

Jimmy lewis stun gun 9'2 124L. tippy. Worked well in big waves but needed power, a steep wave and speed to really work. I never had a really good sesh on it in truth. It didn't turn that well either. I think with real speed it would have turned ok. Lasted 6 months.

Sunova Acid custom. 8'8 113L. VERY tippy. 29" wide and super thinned rails. On a wave I LOVE this board. It rips. The bigger and steeper the wave the better. Bought 8 months ago. Still using it as my only board. But it's TOUGH. My wave count has certainly dropped. It's at least halved since my Laird. maybe even more than that. I sit down and wait most of the time unless conditions are sublime. It's tiring. And hard work. My progress has plateaued because of it.

Unfortunately- my weight has crept up in the past year. I have gained 7kg/15lbs. I'm convinced it's made a huge difference to the sunova. Today's sesh was tough. Paddling wasn't super easy. Balancing was tiring and conditions were pretty darn good.

Long term I want to shed some weight and improve my fitness. But even if I do - it won't happen overnight and I need a board I can use when the sunova doesn't shine. Mainly Less steep onshore waves and when there's lots of chop.

I have read a lot about the tommo style boards- and do think one, along with a longboard, would suit me nicely. But everyone says I must ride them short - and I think the improvement in stability over the acid will be insufficient in. 7'6 tommo of a similar volume. I also would like to add a decent longboard to my quiver- but again this won't be a quick process.

I feel I need to take a step back and go back to a board between my acid and Laird.

Before deciding- here are some other boards I have tried

Jimmy Lewis Worldwide used abroad in powerful reef. not bad. Thick rails. Pretty stable actually. Didn't turn brilliantly but not bad.

SMIK Spitfire 8'6 and 140L. FAT rails and maybe 30.5-31" wide. Rubbish glide. Didn't like it at all. Used aboard for a few waves only.

So- it appears I need something with good glide and will turn. Something around the 9' and 30" wide perhaps. Maybe 130-140L.

Finally- im expecting this board to last me 1 year. After then- I will hopefully have lost some weight and be confident on the acid- and tommo or more advanced shorter board.

As this is a years plan- I will have to restrict myself to a second hand board. I can't afford to take the £500-700 hit in depreciation on a new sup.

So- I would be very grateful for some suggestions please. No right or wrong answers here. To a certain extent I will be restricted on what I can get second hand. Thus if a board design has gone from crap to great after a years revision please let me know.

Thanks guys. I know im doing the right thing- even if my ego doesn't like it! Haha!

Zooport

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2018, 06:04:32 PM »
You have to decide what is most important to you.  I say that because I did the same progression as you.  Started out on a 10'3 X 34 board and worked my way down over a couple of years until I was riding a 7'2 X 28 Naish Hokua.  That board was incredibly tippy, but ripped the waves as well as any traditional prone short board.

Every step shorter/narrower I made, three things happened:
1. My wave count dropped more with each step shorter.
2. My surfing improved on the waves I managed to catch.
3. Most importantly, I had less and less fun with each step shorter and narrower.

So now I've gone the other direction, and have gotten rid of my shorter tippier boards.  I decided that having fun was the most important thing to me and catching more waves is how I have the most fun.  The frustration and work may be fun or rewarding to you, and you may have a different experience, so it's a decision only you can make.
.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2018, 06:23:10 PM by Zooport »
8'6 Soul Compass
9'1 Sunova Creek
9'6 WaveStorm SUP
9'8 Starboard Element

exiled

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2018, 07:58:51 PM »
Yeah, I had that happen to me too. Ordered a 117L custom Rawson that was going to be my bleeding edge, push my limits board. Then proceeded to take a new job with less water time and subsequently gain 20 lbs up to 240lbs :( I can hardly stand on it now and frankly don't even surf it any better than my larger boards because the skill just isn't there. But the line is thin. I am still fine on my 120L foilboard and my 123L Sunova Speeed, probably because of the parallel rail outline of both boards is more stable. You might not need something a whole lot bigger than the acid, just a less aggressive shape. The Rawson is in storage gathering dust, every other step down in board size I mastered in about a month, but that one was a bridge too far. Maybe when life settles down again I can dust it off and try again, but its hard knowing that I already have boards that are so much easier and only just a little bigger.

Fog City Rider

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2018, 08:10:39 PM »
I think you'd probably be stoked on a Sunova Speeed from 8'10 to 9'5. I only had one session on a Speeed, but that board sure made waves easy to catch & you can milk every last ounce out of even the mushiest wave. And it takes a late drop too! 
San Diego, CA
10'0 Naish Nalu Pro (2017 version)
9'0 Pearson Arrow Laird custom
9'3 Pearson Arrow custom (prone)
9'8 Takayama In the Pink (prone)

supthecreek

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2018, 09:54:39 PM »
If I go too small, I suffer more and lose all the supposed advantage of a short board.

My solution is.... when I go shorter, I prefer boards with lower rocker.
They carry speed more easily and IMO, speed = better performance
If I lose speed and glide... I struggle.

At 230 lbs:
low rocker    = 9 x 31 @ 133 liters
more rocker = 9'4 x 31 3/4 @ 136 liters
both are performance shapes
I get the same comfort and performance from either board.

As to the Acid in particular, the super thin nose and low volume tail mean I have to ride a bigger size than most boards.
The performance is so good, that riding a bigger size isn't a compromise.

My 9'4 Creek is way easier than my 9'4 Acid and still keeps great performance, so I'd say you are on the right track at 9' x 30.... mid 130 liters



surfinJ

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2018, 10:52:51 PM »
The best situation for me is to have a varied quiver as far as volume goes.
I have my low volume shortboard rippers and the larger stabler longboard shapes.

If the conditions are clean and I’m feeling strong, or if the contrary....
just grab the best tool out of the box.

I realize that this is a luxury that not all have. Then just 2 boards but significant volume difference. And hopping back and forth does help with the surf chops. Trading off between low wave count technical sessions and high count smorgasbord is how to advance. Gotta keep it fun.

devon_sup_surf

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2018, 11:50:31 PM »
thanks a lot guys. Clearly I'm not the only one to make this mistake.

Thanks creek you're right the acid is an aggressive shape. But it's so tiring for me I do feel I need a decent step up in ease- the same volume over a more forgiving shape wouldn't be enough I don't think. It would sure help- But a step up in volume would help me too I think!

coldsup

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2018, 12:36:27 AM »
Sounds like you want a bigger boys board that is still rippable. What about the Sunova Steele or deffo the Starby 9 ft Hypernut. Not surfed either but the latter has been given thumbs up by folks I know and who tests boards. I know someone else who surfs the Steele in small and big waves.

There’s a plethora of shapes out now for bigger guys but who want to carve it up.

For me personally, I like my longboard shapes with a bit of length....I tend to surf up to head high....10 years surfing.....been through a few boards myself!
« Last Edit: October 15, 2018, 12:42:38 AM by coldsup »

jarvissup

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2018, 03:33:02 AM »
The Stun Gun didn't work as it needs constant juice to thrive, so why not go to the other end of the spectrum.....something fast. You mentioned wanting to try a "Tomo" style, try a JP 8' or new 8'2" Slate.  They are very stable, very fast and turn really well. These are some of the most fun boards you can ride. The only down side is paddle speed, but the 8' models aren't too bad. Another thought would be a Flight Malolo 8'6", but it might be a hair smaller than you'd like at 119L.  These are both great boards that do well in less powerful waves and are stable for their dimensions, and both rip off the tail.

APPST_Paddle

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2018, 05:18:27 AM »
If I go too small, I suffer more and lose all the supposed advantage of a short board.

My solution is.... when I go shorter, I prefer boards with lower rocker.
They carry speed more easily and IMO, speed = better performance
If I lose speed and glide... I struggle.

At 230 lbs:
low rocker    = 9 x 31 @ 133 liters
more rocker = 9'4 x 31 3/4 @ 136 liters
both are performance shapes
I get the same comfort and performance from either board.

As to the Acid in particular, the super thin nose and low volume tail mean I have to ride a bigger size than most boards.
The performance is so good, that riding a bigger size isn't a compromise.

My 9'4 Creek is way easier than my 9'4 Acid and still keeps great performance, so I'd say you are on the right track at 9' x 30.... mid 130 liters

This is an excellent point. Devon - I've pretty much had the same situation as you, I think most have. I'll say this - weight definitely is a factor, but........a lot of it is how the volume is distributed in the board and the shape/rocker.

Case in point - I moved quickly down from a 8'8" Naish X32 - 140L to a 7'11" F-One Madiero 104L, 28.5" wide, beveled rails. I was roughly 175 lbs which I made this switch. I loved the F-One on a wave, but I was falling as much as I was surfing and it was extremely frustrating. Compare that to a 7'6" JL SuperFrank at 100L and 29" wide, less volume but also less rocker, 100x more stable.

Trading SUP's is an expensive endeavor just to move down a few L in volume. I'd be more focused on finding a quiver of boards that's focused on the conditions you want. So.......the SG and Sunova are basically oriented towards the same type of waves. I would sell one and get a Tomo style or shorter board with less rocker for slower waves. You will be amazed at the progression as you can really get back on the board while carrying speed and not sacrificing stability. So.....something like what has been suggested, Tomo, SuperFrank, etc.

One thing that helped me a lot, was a simple concept from Paddlewoo - when you are trying to stabilize on a board think of stability as controlled falling instead of trying to stand. Basically counterbalance every move.

If you are getting in the gym, I'd suggest a lot of leg work and then moving on to single leg variations, strong legs/core help a lot.
7'6" JL Super Frank Lean
8'2" JL SuperTech 
10'1" JL Black and Blue
14' BIC WS Tracer
6'5" JL Flying-V/GoFoil Maliko 200
Kenalu Ho'oloa 95, Werner Rip Stick 79

mrbig

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2018, 06:47:30 AM »
Infinity 8'8" x 31" B-Line. Fast, light, bulletproof, plenty of literage. Worth checking out.
No affiliation!

Older Angulo 8'8" Surfs. Another great board. Wide, stable, and rips.
No affiliation!

Jimmy Lewis Superfrank seems to have a following and has a different planshape than any of his boards.
No affiliation.
Let it come to you..
SMIK 9'2" Hipster Mini Mal
SMIK 8'8" Short Mac Freo Rainbow Bridge
SMIK 8'4" Hipster Twin
King's 8'2" Accelerator SharkBoy

eastbound

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #11 on: October 15, 2018, 08:33:17 AM »
what's the b&b weigh, biggie?

there is a limit to how small i can go, and there is a limit on how small it makes sense to go

i fell in love with my barra 8'3" over the weekend--first sesh friday late afternoon--head high but strong side/offshore--front of the mist--that i was the only supper in spks of how challenging the conditions were--paddled on belly and knees a lot--popped up and caught only five waves--massive victory (at sea)--clearly, on the wave, the board lights me up

sat at dawn caught a rocky point a bit east of old misty--much cleaner--got innumerable waves and lit up even brighter--problem: completely out of gas after only 2.25 hours---now i am new to this board and will likely get more and more solid on it---but the premise for this thread is a good one, and zoo hits it dead on--there is a diminishing return to the overall fun one has surfing, in connection with sizing down---on the wave, the smallest you can handle will generally provide the most fun---but if you tire so fast that sessions last half the usual time, might be better to not excel quite so much on the wave

now re my barra 8'23" x 29, i am only 3 sessions in--bet is, once ive got 10 sessions under my belt, i will have no issue with 3 hr+ sessions on it

and every new, smaller, board i have bought has been a challenge at first, then much easier, and ultimately fine for long sessions

smaller than my barra??  not so sure--and i am getting older---might be i just have to accept that my sweet spot for wave rippability, as well as endurance in the lineup, is in the low to mid 8's x 29 or 30 wide

but what's the weight biggie? in case i lost you in my loooong wiiiind
Portal Barra 8'4"
Sunova Creek 8'7"
Starboard Pro Blue Carbon  8'10"
KeNalu Mana 82, xTuf, ergoT

kayadogg

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2018, 12:43:48 PM »
Infinity 8'8" x 31" B-Line. Fast, light, bulletproof, plenty of literage. Worth checking out.
No affiliation!

Think you mean the Infinity RNB BiggieSmalls? The BLine needs a little juice to really shine. The RNB handles mushier, weaker waves a bit better.

devon, also consider the Infinity New Deal. They offer a 9'6x31 production model that comes in at 141L. PM mrbig if you have questions about that one, he has the exact model and has surfed it in many conditions, from knee-high mush to well overhead. Probably not many, if any, available in your area though.

Good luck with your search, whatever you settle on. The learning and the journey is the fun part.

mrbig

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #13 on: October 15, 2018, 01:00:33 PM »
Was trying to honor the 9' request in the original post. The longer RNB has a lot of liters, that's why I am on the 8'5.

Figured the 8'8" B-Line at 31" wide would be stable, but the literage might be not enough for a heavier fella!

Let it come to you..
SMIK 9'2" Hipster Mini Mal
SMIK 8'8" Short Mac Freo Rainbow Bridge
SMIK 8'4" Hipster Twin
King's 8'2" Accelerator SharkBoy

Area 10

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Re: Admitting you have gone too advanced too quickly.........
« Reply #14 on: October 15, 2018, 01:27:29 PM »
GONG SUP 9'1 CLOUD 140 WOODCKFUSION

£600 GBP delivered NEW.

A great many of us have been on this journey over the last 10-12 years. I know I have. It’s the triumph of hope (or ego) over experience. IMO get a board that was shaped for Europe’s conditions, not some windless tropical reefbreak, and that maximises FUN. Leave the sinker boards to the kids, and just go catch three times as many waves as any of them.

Welcome back to the glide side!

 


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