Pace Yourself

[stoneaxe]

That's what I've been saying to myself Sat and Sun.

Great day Sat. except for some dumb forgetfulness and a real stupid rookie mistake that could have cost me...got lucky.

I got a later start Sat than I originally wanted but when I pulled into Nantasket 1st thing I saw was a long head high peeling right..... Warm, sunny, smooth glass....get the board untied and pull out my leash....where the %$#@ is my leash...OH yeah in the bag on the garage floor with the fins I want to put in..... Quick trip to the surf shop for a leash...almost bought fins too but pretty sure the boss would filet me considering I have a bag full so I resisted.

Got back, unfortunately now high tide was 1/2 hour away...big rebound coming off the seawall, waves washing up the stairs. I watched it for awhile and thought I saw a very fun way to get on the water. I waited for a good one to wash up the stairs and jumped in from there...1st time ever doing that...rode the backwash and jumped up on the fly and met the next one coming in and got absolutely launched up and over...full on airborne on the backside and I fucking landed it! I love getting over waves and work at it often. I knew going in I was going to need the paddle coming down and I timed the down stroke perfectly. I was already moving forward as I compressed to take the landing and I was still on the backwash. The last one was the start of the lull and I just about shot out into the lineup. Thinks were looking fortuitous..... Not too bad considering my head is feeling a bit light.

Only a couple of SUPs and shortboarders out, crowds down further but open there. I was watching for a bit and wave choice was going to be critical. Lot's of closeouts just dumping but some were coming in with a bit more angle and those were sweet. Caught a few smaller waves inside to get my sea legs then paddled out. I backed off of a couple of big waves that I didn't like and I must have looked like a tentative noob because I was given some advice to get forward a bit... Told him I appreciated it but told him I was just looking for a good one. We started talking and he mentioned he has some issues from a brain tumor....say what?......I started to laugh and I think at 1st he was thinking what a dick and I said me too.....another 1st. He was pretty good, caught some nice waves while I was watching. I saw a big set coming and paddled out. Glassy, slightly overhead, awesome clean drop that feeling of your stomach coming up, compress hard in the bottom, looking down the line and up off the lip and drop again screaming like a kid...do it again.....

Bunch a fun rides but it was getting too high and close to the wall so I rode one in near the ramp. Here's where the rookie mistake comes in. I maneuver to the ramp, timing my exit...18" drop washed out at the base of the concrete ramp...I get up on it grab the tail and I'm golden...being careful not to scrape the nose I turn and try and pull it up over the small wave coming in...catches the nose, pivots the board across my ankles. I knew instantly I was going down...tuck roll over the board and onto the ramp..board washes off the ramp onto the rocks. I managed to get it quickly and got the hell off the ramp. Bruised, scraped and bleeding a bit but no major damage to me or the board.

Took a break for a couple hours and then went back out further down the beach....

More later about a fun weekend ,,,boss wants my help with some stuff. Looks like a week of surf coming up....gotta both pace myself and make sure she's happy so my pass is good.

[jpeter]

I was considering a drive your way given the 1-2ft forecast for RI.   But the Block Island buoy was reading good so RI it was this AM.    Turned out to be a good choice,  waves were nice.  Did first light to noonish.   Shot a few after two surf sessions.   One guy was just ripping on the sup.

https://www.facebook.com/309423325742844/photos/pcb.2100520989966393/2100516639966828/?type=3&theater

[stoneaxe]

Ooooh...that was Sunday?

I had a small window this morning and went back to Nantasket.....not as good as the forecast...or even as the cam showed before I left. Strangely bumpy there today and a bit smaller...very mushy. I left after a 1.5 hour session. There were some big sets coming as I left of course. Best part of today was giving up a rare nice wave to a tow headed grom surfing with his Dad. It was head high for me, double overhead to him, I turned to go and saw him looking at it and watching me....told him to go and he started paddling like mad, kid was pretty good for 7 or 8..made a nice drop and disappeared, then he popped out 100 yards down the beach yelling "Dad, did you SEE that, did you SEE that?" When he paddled out I said nice wave and he thanked me for giving it up with a big shit eating grin on his face...

I'm hoping to get out to the Cape this week. Taking a break tomorrow from going hard. Tweaked my shoulder a bit, both are hurting but one is keeping me awake.

Second 1/2 of Saturday was fun, tide was dropping and I had moved down the beach....wave after wave....some very fun long rides. Not a lot of size, but clean waist-chest high sets were frequent. I grabbed a quick picture when I got back from getting my leash....tide was already getting on it but the bigger ones (this one ended up being mid sized or so) were still fun.

I had one good ride and a bunch of sloppy ones today there. There were the rare bigger sets still though. I caught the next to last in a set of 6 that cleared the way nicely and let this one peel. Long ride weaving through 1/2 dozen shortboarders but that was the only wave I got that was what I'd call good in 1.5 hours.

[jpeter]

Yes,  my shots were from Sunday.   I will have to pick a day this fall when there is more of an east swell to try something on the Boston south shore. Your pic is a beauty.  Yesterday was a day that gets additional points for how nice the weather was.   JP

[stoneaxe]

Nice pics...guy was ripping for sure.

I'm hoping to have a zoner fest in Plymouth out at Brown's Bank one of these days. I'm spending a lot more time there now obviously and I'm making note of what can work. It would be fun to paddle out with packs bringing lunch and beverages, drop the gear on the bar  and surf on the outside bars. Would have to be on call because it doesn't happen often but its magic when it does. Even small waves can be fun out there and bring rods too....bonito and stripers in the flats. Feels like fishing in the Keys or Bahamas.

[jpeter]

I have looked at Brown's bank more from a windsurf potential but never tried it.  Put out the word on the zoner fest,  sounds like a good spot for it.  Jay

[supthecreek]

Awesome stoneman.... I like all the surf stories you get to relate these days! Yea retirement 

I'd be up for a Zonefest at the Bank. Just tell me when.

[stoneaxe]

I want to get down the Cape too. The guys I was talking to were from the Cape....Hyannis...we talked sharks of course.....it's why they were there.

[mrbig]

We had a fun conversation after the day was winding down.

Did three short sessions riding my Infinity 9'6" New Deal.

Saw a big dude on a board covered with dots. BIGFOOTE!

Great to see you out there given everything.

Way more fun than the Zooport horror!

[Bean]

Hey Biggie, I want to hear more about the Infinity ND!  How you likee?

[mrbig]

Bean, I took delivery right after my shark encounter. Last August.

We then had weeks of overhead waves.

It is crazy light 16.2 pounds on a postal scale.
Can
I ride it when I want to go logging. As a performance long board it is a superior mousetrap. It is not spectacular as a noserider  cuz it doesn't want to stall and stay high on the wave. Recently changed the fin set up to a center 7 3D dimple with sides. Fade stall and walk around.

As a performance long board it is spectacular. Beeg waves mo bettah.

200 yards outside the can buoy at first only breaks on hurricane swells.

It is also so much fun when it's tiny.

I have the 9'6" x 31" x 139 liters. The 10 footers are awesome but too narrow for me.

Have owned a 10' King's Crocodile, a huge 10'6" Hobie, and a less huge Hobie 9'8".

I prefer this one as it is more versatile in a variety of conditions.

I suspect if I rode it more in small waves with the new fin setup, I could spend some time on the schnozz.

The production Infinity boards are sooo light, and bulletproof it's amazing.

BigDog likes it a whole lot!

[Bean]

Thanks Big Dog! 

[stoneaxe]

That was fun Sunday...some great waves. Crowds were a bit much but still fun. I wish I could have stayed around longer but I had the kids coming over to help me move some bushes. Glad I got Sunday in, my head went south Sunday night and has been going in circles....can hardly walk nevermind paddle.....

[eastbound]

damn stones--sorry to hear you got slammed sunday--i was enjoying the ride til i heard that--im sure youve turned over every stone (haha) to seek a way to avoid the hits--seems random and shitty--keep the faith--when your head aint bad you get on the good stuff--best luck ongoing

[Zooport]

Stony, I apologize if this is none of my business, or if this has been discussed on other threads that I missed.  If either is the case, feel free to ignore this.  But you mention a tumor, is that causing your vertigo issues?  Just wanted to know so I could keep up thoughts and prayers for you. 

I have suffered from intermittent extreme vertigo as well.  Wake up in the morning thinking everything is fine and then the world begins spinning the moment I sit up.  Can't walk, have to hold on to something, along with motion sickness.  I tried SUP surfing once when I had a mild case of it and there was no way.  Not fun.