The Perfect Wave

[surfercook]

We had some seriously choice long period today. Longboarded first in the AM then sup-ed it for the afternoon. Thought I'd pen out a memory.

"The Perfect Wave"
The water was so blue/green and clear w/perfect offshores and long period swell today. All that was missing were dolphins, sea turtles, and whales.
About 50 mins into my session after two waves an overhead set w/three waves to it marched through. I let the first go past since the peak was shifting quite fast to the south of me down
the beach to the other surfers.
The second wave was a solid three block long close out so that was a no go. Paddling up the 6 to 8 foot faces felt amazing w/all that long period energy quickly rushing under my board.
The third wave was instantly in my sights and crosshairs and the peak was not moving away from me nearly as fast as the first wave.
I started paddling out and over to the peak and as the face of the wave started picking me up I gave two strong paddles to get into it and popped up grabbing my rail backside for the drop.
A quick freefall w/a bit of sideslip put me right into it perf and I was amazed at not loosing it.
As I released the rail and stood upright a bit I could sense the perfection and the hollowness of the wave all around me. It's one of the most elated feeling a surfer can get.
The shoulder peeled and tapered off beautifully and obediently for me as I rode it out w/ease. I will never forget that wave even though I don't have a picture. Just the feeling of the
execution of the ride and then hearing the other surfer's accolades towards me as I paddled back into the line-up was enough to bring me more joy than any digital image.
That wave is on my shelf w/a few rare others.

Was biggest in the morning when I was on longboard. No cam though.
Shots from afternoon perfection when I decided to cam up-
Wooden_Jetty_9-29-18
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmthULfn

[surfinJ]

Does not get much better than this, and cures many ills as well.

[stoneaxe]

Awesome description...stoked comes through for sure.


I got some yesterday...not as perfect but good clean head high fun. Heading out shortly for some more, and waves all week...