Author Topic: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog  (Read 2137 times)

stoneaxe

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Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« on: September 11, 2018, 04:32:19 PM »
Stayed local today....was lazy about it and wish I hadn't been. Should have caught the early low tide.

#1  I drove to the beach around 9:00 expecting a choppy workout and was surprised to find glass with no wind and a small swell. Tide was getting high so nothing but smashing on the wall in the cove so I drove out to the point. Crossover access to the outer beach closes after Aug 1st so I could only get about 2 miles out. Nobody for miles.....I can see it breaking another 1/4 mile down the beach...small waves, mostly knee high with occasional thigh. Then just as I paddled into it where it was breaking I was pleasantly surprised by a chest high set that came in. Every 10 mins 3 waist to chest. Absolutely beautiful morning, water was warm no sun but it was hot and humid. I stayed hair dry for the 1st half hour then started jumping in frequently...meltdown from all the paddling. Surfed and played for 2 hours and was gassed..... >:(.

Took a lunch break then went back down to get another paddle in. Waves had bumped slightly and it was mid tide so I stayed in the cove. Thigh to waist high shore break, one turn and out, lot of fall flat bails but I still managed a nice gravel burn on my back on a bigger wave I tried to milk too long. Only lasted an hour or so in that but I was paddling at the ragged edge of the shore break a workout I do often and it requires constant attention to balance and position to keep from getting caught. The tide was dropping and it looked like the waves were still building when I left. I thought I was good for one more short session if the waves stayed and started breaking over the outer shoal.

#3 Fucking fog.....I'm toast in the fog....balance goes out the window. I had gone home and was mowing the lawn when i noticed the fog was rolling in.... >:(. Drove down anyway....waves were small again...walked to the waters edge and couldn't see outside...just a seal staring at me. Was kind of funny...he rose way up out of the water and stared me down. I think he was balancing on his rear flippers, then he barked and did a little back flip into the water..... :). My head was already feeling funky just standing on the shore looking out into it so I decided paddling out a 3rd time in dense fog was pushing my luck and settled for the duece.


« Last Edit: September 11, 2018, 04:37:31 PM by stoneaxe »
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

Night Wing

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2018, 04:35:51 PM »
Nice photos. And you had the beach, surf and waves all to yourself.

Thanks for sharing your report and the photos.
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters (2 Dukes)
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters
CJ Nelson Parallax: 9'3" x 23 1/2" x 3 3/16" @ 78.8 Liters (prone surfing longboard; Thunderbolt Technologies build in Red construction)

supthecreek

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2018, 06:01:15 PM »
So great to hear mid-week surf stories coming from the stone!
Sounds awesome! yeeha  :)

Big and lumpy here.... maybe ,ok in the morning but we just lost access to my favorite break till next June.
National Park barricaded the access road. Miles of beach unreachable.
Stairs the built into the water at high tide, didn't last through one onshore event. Morons.

stoneaxe

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2018, 06:50:41 PM »
You're welcome...happy to have something to share.... :)


Well that sucks...Marconi?
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

surfercook

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2018, 08:32:49 PM »
Very cool recap of your day. I love seals. They're funny. Surfing in the fog is a challenge and not so safe. Especially alone. Know the feeling. Last winter I drifted like a half mile solo in the fog and didn't even know it until I got out! But once I scored the heaviest wave of the day in the fog! Thing was a beast....I'll never forget it out there alone when that fog rolled in.


Fogged in here today but heard some other spots were working. I finally got to cut some of my lawn accounts in between the rain we've been experiencing here in NJ since Saturday. Then drove up to Bean's for a board drop repair. Manana though!
« Last Edit: September 11, 2018, 08:42:02 PM by surfercook »
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Night Wing

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2018, 04:41:11 AM »
@ surfercook

I enjoyed seeing you sup surf your "wave of the day" in the fog. That was quite a wave.

Thanks for sharing your video of it.
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters (2 Dukes)
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters
CJ Nelson Parallax: 9'3" x 23 1/2" x 3 3/16" @ 78.8 Liters (prone surfing longboard; Thunderbolt Technologies build in Red construction)

stoneaxe

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2018, 11:23:00 AM »
A little gnarly looking Cookie! That fog would have had me for sure. I paddled from Scituate harbor down to the rivermouth with fellow zoner/CCBC Pres. Chaser one day. Sunny, beautiful day, 2 mile paddle to the river...surfed some fun waves at the bars at the river for a couple hours. Just as we started to paddle back a pea soup fog came in.....I had to paddle the 2 miles back on my knees...suck city.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

eastbound

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2018, 02:13:39 PM »
it's been heavy fog down by me--thought of you, stones--i am just a 60yo moron with no know neuro issues, and fog is tough--took me a while to stop falling in today

really wanted to try my new, smaller board, and would have been perfect (we had glassy juice today and yesterday) but i was a touch tippy already on the creek, and didnt want to mess with what was working--super sessions

you couldnt see a thing on the cams because of the fog--crowds werent too bad--prolly bc of that

cookie--impressive--you get your waves, sir

glad you had a full day, stones--sounds like why you live where you do--youre gonna be just fine
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stoneaxe

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Re: Almost a triple...@#$%ing fog
« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2018, 06:33:56 PM »
Absolutely.....I can walk to the beach if I have too...:). Actually....I should start running.....attach my SUP mule to my belt and go. Not sure I'd make it back though.....uphill the whole way.

I may get down south on Friday.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

 


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