Author Topic: Snapped Paddle Blade  (Read 7436 times)

SlatchJim

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Snapped Paddle Blade
« on: June 11, 2018, 10:14:35 AM »
After 8 or so years of faithful service and abuse, I snapped the blade to my sup sports paddle while simply paddling back out after a wave.   It was a clean snap, and I'm sure using it as a cane to walk out of the San Onofre cobble fields among other abuses led to its demise.

I believe the construction is a fiberglass blade shell over a foam core. I've seen a little bit of paddle repair showcased here on the zone.  I'd like to try to fix the break, before I get a new blade or complete paddle.  My simple ding fix skill level is rising with every attempt.  With 25 or so sup and surfboard dings repaired since I started doing things the "correct" way, and not half-assing it, I'm gaining confidence to the point at which I'm happy taking a risk on something I haven't done.

I'll provide pictures of the break when I get home. It's pretty clean, right below where the paddle attaches to the shaft.  I'm thinking of using a couple small toothpick sized dowels, gorilla glue, sand both sides, and putting 2 to three pieces of wetted out S glass over the break area, gaining in surface area on each application.  I'm ok with ugly and gaining a little weight as long as it's strong and water tight.  The dowels might not gain me anything, I don't know at this point.

If anybody feels like posting pics and a brief description of their repair method, I'd be in your debt.

Bean

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2018, 10:33:27 AM »
Jim, I bet Warren would be happy to install a new blade for you.  Probably a bit less than a new paddle and certainly less for the landfill.

But, please post some pictures and I bet you will get tons of ideas...some even useful. ;D

SlatchJim

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2018, 12:52:22 PM »
I'm sure Wardog would be happy to accommodate me with a new blade, their customer service has always been top drawer with us.  My interest is more of a "Can I fix this and keep on going?" type of question.  Think of Beasho and that Clark-shaped spotted sup he fixed about a couple dozen times...like that.  I've got all the supplies needed for the fix (I think).  If I can, great!  If I can't or shouldn't, I'll learn that here before putting out the effort and time.

SlatchJim

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2018, 10:03:50 AM »
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPooSLGl7-u-A3dwYGRxsvEfk5wYTlh65W81m4k
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPZfOchPIs-J3WjzbAkPvCxg-Qo1te60nOh1Ml5

Here's the damage.  The snap is pretty clean.  I need to say that these paddles have been amazingly sturdy, and this is the first one we've broke in all the years.  Considering my size and capacity for abuse, that's a hell of a track record.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2018, 10:05:42 AM by SlatchJim »

TallDude

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2018, 10:25:31 AM »
Lets start with the basic's...... ;)

https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,32128.0.html


Your picture links dona worka.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

SlatchJim

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2018, 01:24:30 PM »
Ah yes, my fault TD, totally neglected the resize.  Let's try this again.  ::)

Bean

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2018, 02:08:53 PM »
Jim, I would temporarily glue a splint to the back of the paddle and laminate the front only first.  Once that's cured, I would remove the splint and laminate the back (and finish the front). 

With the blade supported by the splint, you will be able to aggressively sand down sufficiently to get a good scarph joint.  You want to create a valley about 2 1/2"  accross the break, giving you enough room to laminate 4 to 5 layers of 6 oz + glass each side. 

Once everything is dry, fair (level) it out with your sander ...

If all fails, there is always this:
« Last Edit: June 12, 2018, 02:14:29 PM by Bean »

Bean

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2018, 02:13:22 PM »
2x post
« Last Edit: June 12, 2018, 02:16:02 PM by Bean »

Dusk Patrol

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2018, 02:21:06 PM »
Bean how do your shoulders feel after a few miles on the weed witch?
RS 14x26; JL Destroyers 9'8 & 8'10; BluePlanet 9'4; JL Super Frank 8'6

Bean

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2018, 04:55:33 PM »
I have one with smaller tines and increase my stroke rate for the longer distance stuff ;D

It is the go to tool for dog spots...

SlatchJim

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #10 on: June 13, 2018, 08:28:47 AM »
Considering the number of Great Whites I've seen this year, I might just add that weed witch to a mount while I'm at this.  :)
I see yours already has a carbon fiber shaft!

I've got the glue and sticks to use as a splint, and that was my initial idea since this is going to be a "one side at a time gig for at least the first couple of layers.  Anyone done this before that might have the pictures showing the process?  1000 words and all...  :D
« Last Edit: June 13, 2018, 08:31:09 AM by SlatchJim »

PonoBill

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #11 on: June 13, 2018, 08:41:43 AM »
No pics, but I've done it a few times--just recently to fix a Mana for Rod Parmenter who whacked his foil with it, and a delamed steering blade for the Hood River Outrigger Canoe club. The easiest way I've found is a riff on Jimmy Lewis' "poor man bagging". I'd splint the back with tape and aluminum scraps (I have lots of those) and then set the blade on some firm foam. Lay on a few layers of prewet carbon (make sure you sand down to the glass or carbon for the full repair area) then a layer of plastic film, then some firm foam, then a lot of weights. Actually, I'd stick it in my press here in HR, in maui, weights). Do the carbon pretty dry. The pressing will squish off any excess epoxy, which is no big deal if it runs off to the side, but you'll have to sand off any of it that winds up on the blade. If you do it right you won't need to sand the repair. The plastic, foam, and weights leave it smooth if you get all the wrinkles out.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

SUP Sports ®

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #12 on: June 13, 2018, 03:53:03 PM »
After 8 or so years of faithful service and abuse, I snapped the blade to my sup sports paddle while simply paddling back out after a wave.   It was a clean snap, and I'm sure using it as a cane to walk out of the San Onofre cobble fields among other abuses led to its demise.

Aloha Jim,
Yup...we can still count the number of our snapped SUP paddles on one hand...out of 1000's sold and on the water...pretty remarkable, really...they were all pretty big guys...and, every single person took responsibility for causing it...I still have my original paddle in service...

http://supsports.com/sup-paddles

Good luck with the repair...looks doable...we have been able to R/R blades as well...worst case scenario...
Mahalos...{:~)

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121 Santa Barbara St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93101

blackeye

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #13 on: June 13, 2018, 06:19:11 PM »
...Lay on a few layers of prewet carbon...

If the original construction was glass, I'd stick with glass. Mind you that's where it broke. So upping the game with carbon, I'd want it to extend up the shaft to the froggy bit with more layers up there.

I pick up that Slatch is considering internal splints which some consider to be poor practice. I'm out on that topic. At best they hold the shape while the reinforcement cures. At worst they add a few grams of weight. Maybe they would grind at the existing foam when the blade flexes. So maybe that's a worse at worst.

PonoBill

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Re: Snapped Paddle Blade
« Reply #14 on: June 13, 2018, 07:39:05 PM »
I always use carbon to repair blades, first because most have at least some carbon in the structure, but more because glass flexes too much. Carbon has about twice the tensile strength of carbon. Some folks would say that introduces a set of stress risers, but who cares. That you DON'T want happening is for the area of the break to flex. It needs to be rigid. If it flexes that blade with either break again or be horrible. And no, you don't need to extend it up the neck--won't do a thing for you. A half inch on each side of the break will do, make it an inch for belt and suspenders.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

 


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