Please, Please, Please

[stoneaxe]

Wednesday....day off....forecast is 3' at 14s with light offshore winds. Still heavy onshore today....too much to paddle into. The point will be awesome if the forecast holds.

Foamy yesterday.


Windblown and mushy today The point seawall is undergoing emergency repairs. Riley took out about 30' and undermined the road...

[Tom]

[stoneaxe]

Gotta love James.

So stoked for tomorrow. If it's working as well as it's supposed to be I should get in a couple sessions. My hands get cold these days so it's tough to go beyond a couple hours in these temps. Supposed to be in the mid 40's though and sunny so it won't be too bad.

[surfercook]

Good luck, stoney. Big ass low out there. I guess this one won't get named since it's out to sea already. Swell has some force here in the Garden State.

[jpeter]

Good Luck !  I caught the tail end of the perfection yesterday.   West wind kicked in after I was out an hour.  Got bumpy real fast.  Went out a second time with lots of fall, crash and burn.  Fun to be in the water both sessions.  Pics taken after it got messy,  Southern RI:

https://www.facebook.com/309423325742844/photos/pcb.1850318808319947/1850314211653740/?type=3&theater

JP

[stoneaxe]

It was fun....1st double session in awhile...went exploring 1st thing this morning. Started local....high tide...just breaking on the beach but had some power. The point was working but I still don't know it well enough to play in there yet, mine field of boulders. Headed south to see some of the other breaks I've never looked at. Some very promising spots...one especially nice if you like lefts. I headed back to the house to let the tide drop a bit before going out. I knew I was only going to be good for 2-3 hours and wanted better conditions. Hit the water an hour after high tide and it was already in much better shape. Forecast was spot on....I've been calibrating Magic Seaweed and it's fairly accurate now. Waist to Chest mostly with a bigger head high set every 8-10 mins or so. No wind to start, slowly picked up through the day.

I was sucking badly at 1st...pretty typical....hard time finding the spot. My head was feeling fine but it was shifty and my timing was way off. Missing everything.......decided to focus on getting warmed up and played at staying right on the edge while I paddled down to the point. Found a nice spot that was throwing up a consistant  wave and finally starting getting some. Stuck with some smaller but very nicely formed ones for a 1/2 hour then started waiting out the bigger ones. Some fun long rides...I wasn't pushing it...smooth turns and clean exits. Wanted to stay as warm as possible and avoid the water. Even though the sun came came out and I was warm enough to pull my hood back my hands got cold and I started cramping in my legs. Water temp was at 38 this morning...hating the cold these days....

Went home after 2.5 hours made myself a sandwich went back out to my truck with my wetsuit still on and sat in the cab in the sun......felt awesome...toasty warm....took a nap..... . Woke up at 3:30....turned the key and back to the beach. A little smaller, a little windier, sun gone, a bit colder....only lasted an hour for the 2nd one but it was wave, after wave, after wave. Some surfers headed out as I was leaving. My wife and I went back down just to look before dinner (I'm keeping a diary on conditions) and they were still there...waves are dropping quick but they were  still getting a few rides. Vid below of one....you can see why I don't want to push my luck on the point just yet......

[surfercook]

Zat you, stoney? Nice clean little wave. Quite the opposite of what I was looking at today. Mid morning was death here. No one out and relentless overhead sets stacking up and shuttin down hard on my local sandbars. Got a call it was epic 60 miles to the north. Too bad I had to be at the oral surgeon for consult at 2:30. Darn last wisdom tooth! Headed home afterwards and got a fb message from a charger that lives right down the street. "Come surf 25th..some bombs stackin up". Tide had filled in and the wind started to slack so off I went. Quite challenging just to get out. My buddy got the best waves and a bunch of em too! I'm feeling lucky to have made a few. I caught one bomb that shut down and steam rolled me hard...ripped the paddle right outa my hands. Made a bunch of clean ones so I'm pretty juiced up now after two days.
btw-What's w/the point? I love point breaks...one of the most amazing phenomenons ever.

Local charger...this guy went two rounds in the Sunset Beach Sup World Cup a few yrs ago....in macking 15' surf too!


Competing at the cup


Biggest right I caught today.


Steamroller


'Bout to get rolled over


Had it to ourselves


Mid Morning Madness


Meanwhile 60 miles to the north!

[stoneaxe]

No that wasn't me...that was around 6:30 when I was headed to dinner out. It was bigger earlier but not close to the size in your pics. It was at 9'-10' 20 miles north of me. I was happy with head high.

[stoneaxe]

Came back to look at your pics again and saw I had missed your question about the point. Nothing wrong with it...it's me that has problems.... . It makes a real nice right from what I can see. I just don't know it yet. I just started surfing this beach and going out solo with a somewhat wonky head isn't a good mix with the rocks. Especially in winter...not sure why but it always feels like getting hammered in the winter feels heavier somehow.

[surfercook]

getting hammered in the winter feels heavier somehow.

For sure most definitely. Rocks and a wonky head effecting your confidence and judgement are not a good combo. Good call.