Author Topic: Life of Riley  (Read 3031 times)

surfercook

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2273
  • Jersey Shore
    • View Profile
    • My YouTube
    • Email
Life of Riley
« on: March 05, 2018, 08:10:22 PM »
Crazy storm we had here in NJ. Winter Storm Riley was spawned in the Pacific and grew to record breaking proportions by the time it migrated to the East Coast.Tidal flooding was quite extreme in many parts of Long Beach Island as I can atest to having driven the 10 miles from Surf City to Holgate on Sat, Sun, and Mon. The surf reached epic status on Sunday which had many of the top pro surfers on
the East Coast traveling to LBI for the excellent conditions we were experiencing. I was quite fortunate to get to surf here all three days. I was awe struck by Hgate this swell...the sheer energy of just the drift was amazing. Combined w/the long period large swell and the relentless sideshores it was extremely challenging. Holgate car prk and the lineup were jammed w/pros...a ton of cams shootin too. I have quite alot of mixed media from these past three days and the edit will take a while. Put a few frames together for a preview.
There's a video on Stab magazine w/Brett Barley packing a tube for quite a distance. funny thing is my board shows about half way through. My leash broke and the current carried it away quite fast.
Stoke on, Zoners! Cross posted in Sessions for additional stoke!  8) I totally screwed up the dates on the fotos so disregard, but the names of the days are correct...uh...duh!
https://stabmag.com/stabcinema/watch-the-longest-barrel-of-brett-barleys-life/





« Last Edit: March 05, 2018, 08:26:32 PM by surfercook »
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

Zooport

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 3533
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2018, 08:44:01 PM »
That's some nice looking backside surfing, Cook.  Great work.
8'6 Soul Compass
9'1 Sunova Creek
9'6 WaveStorm SUP
9'8 Starboard Element

surfinJ

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1873
    • View Profile
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2018, 10:20:43 AM »
I saw the video on surfline and thought it was your spot going off.

Some amazing waves there to upload into your surf memories!!!

JEG

  • Teahupoo Status
  • ******
  • Posts: 1016
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2018, 12:15:26 PM »
nice lefty supping  ;)

NorthJerzSurfer

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 714
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2018, 05:31:13 PM »
the mutant low tide wave videos coming out of that spot have been insane!  Sick riding Cook!

This whole swell was a bust for Northern J.  Never completely cleaned up (when I could get out at least...)

hope everyone scored!

surfercook

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2273
  • Jersey Shore
    • View Profile
    • My YouTube
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #5 on: March 06, 2018, 07:33:14 PM »
the mutant low tide wave videos coming out of that spot have been insane! This whole swell was a bust for Northern J.  Never completely cleaned up (when I could get out at least...)
sorry u skunked. that wave is mutant for sure. would be cool to surf it w/you. creek wants a piece of that too!

Great work.
lol..work it was! some of the drifts just paddling out were  4 to 5 blocks. when i broke leash the swim in was like 15 mins

nice lefty supping  ;)
thanx  8) funny, when i first started sup surfing it was at my local which gets tons of rights from south swells. after about 2 months i was like gotta hit the left and learn backside on sup. it was so new back then and i was a bit apprehensive at first.

I saw the video on surfline and thought it was your spot going off. Some amazing waves there to upload into your surf memories!!!
that's funny you spied my break on srfline...they are dialed for sure. your upload comment reminds me of an episode of Black Mirror on Netflix called "The Entire History Of You". parental guidance suggested!

One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

tde

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 321
    • MSN Messenger - Timellispv@gmail.com
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2018, 07:51:16 PM »
Riley brought some great surf down here in FLA!!....and it was a whole lot WARMER !!!!!😎👍🌴🌞😎!!!!!

surfercook

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2273
  • Jersey Shore
    • View Profile
    • My YouTube
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2018, 08:15:28 PM »
Riley brought some great surf down here in FLA!!....and it was a whole lot WARMER !!!!!😎👍🌴🌞😎!!!!!
i should hope so! cool you caught it. some strong swells for alotta days. been like a srf trip. today was the fifth day of waves here. i only surfed three of em. the first day was friday during the strm...some guys were out in 50 mph offshores getting rides.

mean higher high water! the numbers are scary, and so are these modern morhed out storms.
https://www.wunderground.com/cat6/weaker-gulf-stream-means-trouble-coastal-new-england
« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 08:17:39 PM by surfercook »
One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

eastbound

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2995
    • View Profile
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2018, 06:40:21 AM »
next time call me---western LI was on and offshore (sometimes blowing high 20's, ill concede) sat thru tues am

best waves ever for me yesterday morning--glassy oh+--laps---on my 8'10" creek---holds well on the face (at least compared to my airborn)--and for late steep drops, turns nice from the tail/rails on the bottom and then makes section---
Portal Barra 8'4"
Sunova Creek 8'7"
Starboard Pro Blue Carbon  8'10"
KeNalu Mana 82, xTuf, ergoT

stoneaxe

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 12084
    • View Profile
    • Cape Cod Bay Challenge
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2018, 12:02:45 PM »
Still so bummed I didn't get a piece of this one. Hoping to get some of this one... Thursday night local is forecast at 4ft at 10sec and offshore at 6mph.....very sweet if it happens. If I go out I promise I'll get some wave pics SC.. :)
« Last Edit: March 07, 2018, 12:06:10 PM by stoneaxe »
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

surfercook

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2273
  • Jersey Shore
    • View Profile
    • My YouTube
    • Email
Re: Life of Riley
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2018, 08:00:50 PM »
Now we have just experienced Winter Storm Quin. Weather has been apocalyptical! Highest flooding yet this winter. The water came all the way up to my property. That hasn't happened since Hurricane Sandy in 2012. My property is about 15 lots from the bay and about the same to the ocean. I'm in the low rent district! The water comes in from a storm drain that empties into the bay at the end of my street. heard there were surfers out again in barreling waves. Winds were strong.

I've heard of snowthunder but was working inside all day so I didn't get to experience it. Someone in the CVS was saying they saw the lightening and thunder while it was snowing.

https://www.nbcphiladelphia.com/weather/Lightning-Thundersnow-Teacher-Struck-Manchester-Township-Ocean-County-New-Jersey-476153813.html



One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"

 


SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal