How much carbon needs to wrap around the leading edge of mast?

[opie]

Nothing in my garage is level.  The floor is more like a driveway, slanting down to the street. The table I am using is a warped plastic folding table.  I also realized today when checking it the sides of the mast are not all that parallel, or straight. 
But as far as I can tell the plate's on pretty straight.   So I added 5 short strips plate to mast each side and one all the way from the bottom of the mast around the plate and back down the other side.  I was going to skip the vacuum but it kept bridging at the corners of the plate so I threw it in. 

The last wrap on the fuse worked great, and I started the hot coat on one half.  Next time I will not use strips on the sides,  wrapping all the way around was easier.  Actually, I think molds might be the way to go on the fuse and mast.

[surfcowboy]

That bag looks nice man.

I also had to create my level area. A buddy gave me a slab of marble so I leveled it out on one of my benches. I really needed to bag the wing there. I got a small warm so I have to sand a little warp out. (So. much sanding.)

[opie]

Tried to fill a taco with 6 lb pour foam.  I thought I had plenty but I was a little short.  Also, I put a bag of small rocks on the center to keep the top and bottom surfaces together but one side still bulged.
On the plus side I can stand on the wing tips with the wing supported only in the middle and it holds my 180 lbs no problem.
I am going to order more pour foam. I am considering 2 lb. instead of 6 lb., any opinion on that? Thanks.

[jrandy]

Mucho gusto Opie!
Since it seems plenty strong so I would not sweat 2lb or 6lb foam.
Classic surfboard PU is 3lb-ish, going heavier for tow/insert weight and lighter the other way.
This also begs the question whether Great Stuff or similar would also work...

[opie]

That would be very convenient, and I have considered it but I was worried about outgassing.  I am trying to stop myself from attempting to reinvent the wheel since I am in a bit over my head.

[surfcowboy]

I agree on the weight. The foam isn't giving any strength really, I'd say. Mine is 1 lb EPS.

Good luck man. Every new process is kinda hairy. I'm about to try to wrap my mast soon and I'm not exactly sure how that's gonna go lol. Hang in.

[opie]

The photos say otherwise but I think I am getting better. 

I ran out of supplies for vacuum bagging and discovered I prefer vacuum lay-ups. 

Another small issue, my square profile fuse was so uneven from my carbon laminating skills that it would no longer sit flat.  As a result its not quite straight on the mast, and also a little twisted.  I drilled 1 inch holes for the front wing attachment and filled them with a paste made of chopped graphite, epoxy and west systems 407 low density filler.  I hope to drill the holes straight in spite of the crooked fuse.  I think it's close enough. 
My goal for this one is to be strong enough for testing wings, I am sure I can do much better with the next model.  Maybe in the end I will cut off this fuse and replace, but not until after water testing.

I've also run out of resin and uni, so I'll have to take a short break and go  work to pay for supplies.  Luckily the masts I ordered for my Takuma are here so I can  actually do some riding on my days off. 

[surfcowboy]

You're getting there man. Remember that you can sand down the bumps after every lam session. That'll help keep things from getting too far out of whack too.

Hang in. I think I'm due for a bagging supply order as well.

[blackeye]

You're getting there man. Remember that you can sand down the bumps after every lam session. That'll help keep things from getting too far out of whack too.

Hang in. I think I'm due for a bagging supply order as well.

The real stuff i'm sure is bomber, but cheap supplies can be very effective. I use packing tape or lately the super-tacky vapour barrier sealing tape to seal bags. bags are whatever cheap plastic I have. I use real peel ply, but I understand old spinnakers and tent material works too (ripstop nylon). I have never understood why perforated release film is necessary if you are using peel ply. I use oil spill mats that I have on hand for absorbent bleeder material, and others use paper towel.

Once the project gets serious enough that, say, $500 of fibre and foam is on the line, then the good stuff might be warranted. In the meantime, cheap and cheerful. Save your money for a decent vac pump which is absolutely necessary.

[opie]

You're getting there man. Remember that you can sand down the bumps after every lam session. That'll help keep things from getting too far out of whack too.

Hang in. I think I'm due for a bagging supply order as well.

The real stuff i'm sure is bomber, but cheap supplies can be very effective. I use packing tape or lately the super-tacky vapour barrier sealing tape to seal bags. bags are whatever cheap plastic I have. I use real peel ply, but I understand old spinnakers and tent material works too (ripstop nylon). I have never understood why perforated release film is necessary if you are using peel ply. I use oil spill mats that I have on hand for absorbent bleeder material, and others use paper towel.

Once the project gets serious enough that, say, $500 of fibre and foam is on the line, then the good stuff might be warranted. In the meantime, cheap and cheerful. Save your money for a decent vac pump which is absolutely necessary.

I hear you on using less expensive materials, I wish I had just used fiberglass for my first attempt. 

I didn't buy much to start this project, because I wasn't sure if it would be worth the trouble.  But I am enjoying the process way more than I expected,  so its time to spend some money on supplies.  A vacuum kit to go with my pump is on the list.  It's a long list.

[Surfside]

Awesome work opie. My 2 cents. Multi-tool is probably the best tool for building. It creates less dust than sanding and cuts real nice with practice. I recently lost a friend that use to own Gulftech Booms in Corpus Christi. He had been working in China doing quality control in one of the board building shops. He stated that the multi-tool is widely used there. Vacuum bagging is great but can create a mess some times. I'm on my third set of foils and don't bag (I do bag when I build a board using innegra). Are you cooking your epoxy? Heating improves cross link density and decreases cure time. My slow cure will set in 15 min. and I can sand in about an hour when I cook'em. I stay with the laminate while it goes off to correct any issues while it degases.

[jrandy]

The real stuff i'm sure is bomber, but cheap supplies can be very effective. I use packing tape or lately the super-tacky vapour barrier sealing tape to seal bags. bags are whatever cheap plastic I have. I use real peel ply, but I understand old spinnakers and tent material works too (ripstop nylon). I have never understood why perforated release film is necessary if you are using peel ply. I use oil spill mats that I have on hand for absorbent bleeder material, and others use paper towel.

Once the project gets serious enough that, say, $500 of fibre and foam is on the line, then the good stuff might be warranted. In the meantime, cheap and cheerful. Save your money for a decent vac pump which is absolutely necessary.

I only use one or the other- peel ply when there is going to be more laminations or perf ply to get a more resin-rich 'skin'.
I think everyone owes it to themselves to try the real bagging films, sealant, plys, and breathers to get a feel for them and then swap in substitutes as desired or needed.

I have a small pump and notice when I use crappy tape to seal recycled bag material. Having a gauge helps too. It is possible to pull too much resin. I did that a few times with small parts with a bigger borrowed pump.

[surfcowboy]

I'm going to experiment with some cheaper peel ply when I can get to a fabric store. Bag film seems to be the must have. I've cheated on tape with decent results both with window putty for a small job and packing tape.

This is a great group growing on here. So much info flying. I need to get some heat lamps for kicking things quicker when it's cool.

[opie]

Awesome work opie. My 2 cents. Multi-tool is probably the best tool for building. It creates less dust than sanding and cuts real nice with practice. I recently lost a friend that use to own Gulftech Booms in Corpus Christi. He had been working in China doing quality control in one of the board building shops. He stated that the multi-tool is widely used there. Vacuum bagging is great but can create a mess some times. I'm on my third set of foils and don't bag (I do bag when I build a board using innegra). Are you cooking your epoxy? Heating improves cross link density and decreases cure time. My slow cure will set in 15 min. and I can sand in about an hour when I cook'em. I stay with the laminate while it goes off to correct any issues while it degases.

I had forgotten about getting a multi tool, but picked one up after this reminder.  You're right, it works great.  Heat lamps are a great idea, I bought an electric blanket for the same reason, but it doesn't get hot enough.  I wish I had thought of lamps, I could have saved some money. 


 

[opie]

Tried to make a fiberglass mold from the 3d plug I used in my taco mold attempt.  I fused the mold halves with the pla plug inside, so I just cut off the flanges,  added carbon and I am calling it a wing.
 One layer of twill left it kind of flexible but three layers of uni later and I can stand on it, weight on the wingtips, with no bending.

 The vacuum crushed the plug with 10 percent infill, so I quickly turned it off and ended up with some wrinkles in the uni.  I did not think the plug could take vacuum, but I wanted to see for myself.

I also used a 3d printed mold to make a stab.  I need to drill holes through the front wing and through the fuselage for the stab.  I've got bolts on order and then I think this thing will get wet.