Author Topic: REPAIRING BROKEN BOARD: Should I fill foam voids with spackle before glassing?  (Read 3931 times)

magentawave

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MB will never stop your epoxy from curing, you must have got a incorrect mixture off epoxy. The max is about 15-20% by weight but I just do it by feel, runney enuff to spread and stick

Good to know. It was a tiny amount that I mixed so must have screwed up the mixture. Thanks.



The blank is clearly compromised, so two concerns to address are maintaining the original rocker and adding some strength.  A single 12" patch running from rail to rail, in whatever glass you choose, over the crease followed by your regular full lamination.  Nothing too substantial for the patch, because that would just create a stress riser. 

Except for the cracks at the rails the blank didn't break so the rocker is 100% intact. I know this because I took rocker measurements right after I bought it to compare it with the production CLMB I had and the rocker measurements are still the same. WHEW! It was a big wave with a fat lip at low tide that hit it - and right on top of the reef. I knew the second I flipped the board away that I did the wrong thing but it seems that the 6 oz carbon deck patch I added prevented it from snapping and folding like a freaking jack knife.
8'-6" Azul Forte Pro custom
9' Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

magentawave

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Instead of waiting a month to pull off the glass I should have done it immediately but I didn't until last week so I'm still feeling a little dampness on the foam. Any suggestions for speeding up the drying process?
8'-6" Azul Forte Pro custom
9' Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

Bean

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Good news on the rocker MW!

Once you have the board skinned it will dry out really fast.  Just keep the open side up for evaporation.

eDUBz

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The board will dry up quick with it completely open.
@rf.boardworks

magentawave

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Does anyone know exactly what kind of plastic Jimmy Lewis used in his poor mans vacuum video series? (The video will start where he starts laying it down.) And where can you buy it? Home Depot?
8'-6" Azul Forte Pro custom
9' Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

jrandy

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The questions was asked before on Badger's thread presenting the videos. Ponobill proposed that it is a cheap painting tarp material on page 4.

https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,31004.0.html

I have yet to do a whole board 'Jimmy Lewis poor mans style'. On small stuff I just use whatever I have at home, kitchen cling wrap and other clear-ish bag films. Sometimes I come across a video of people fixing a boat or airplane wing with the same technique.

I found another thread on Seabreeze mentioning the technique and it sure does look like painting tarp fresh out of the package.

https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/Review/New-Jimmy-Lewis-Foilboard-Continued?groupID=7840157



http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J

surfcowboy

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Adding a note here on the idea of using carbon because it's opaque. You can just add pigment to a layer of glass as UK said to cover. Also another reason to do this is if you don't get the bottom foam fill exactly flat you will need way more than a single 4oz or whatever layer of glass to ap sand through. If you use all glas you can sand a high spot down to the foam again and patch it like a ding, so it's way more forgiving of a backyard shaper.

Keep us posted on this one. You can totally get this board surfable with a little work.