Author Topic: REPAIRING BROKEN BOARD: Should I fill foam voids with spackle before glassing?  (Read 5616 times)

magentawave

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MB will never stop your epoxy from curing, you must have got a incorrect mixture off epoxy. The max is about 15-20% by weight but I just do it by feel, runney enuff to spread and stick

Good to know. It was a tiny amount that I mixed so must have screwed up the mixture. Thanks.



The blank is clearly compromised, so two concerns to address are maintaining the original rocker and adding some strength.  A single 12" patch running from rail to rail, in whatever glass you choose, over the crease followed by your regular full lamination.  Nothing too substantial for the patch, because that would just create a stress riser. 

Except for the cracks at the rails the blank didn't break so the rocker is 100% intact. I know this because I took rocker measurements right after I bought it to compare it with the production CLMB I had and the rocker measurements are still the same. WHEW! It was a big wave with a fat lip at low tide that hit it - and right on top of the reef. I knew the second I flipped the board away that I did the wrong thing but it seems that the 6 oz carbon deck patch I added prevented it from snapping and folding like a freaking jack knife.
8'-2" x 28" x 4" x 99 Liters - Infinity Blurr custom
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 30" x 4" x 125 Liters - Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

magentawave

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Instead of waiting a month to pull off the glass I should have done it immediately but I didn't until last week so I'm still feeling a little dampness on the foam. Any suggestions for speeding up the drying process?
8'-2" x 28" x 4" x 99 Liters - Infinity Blurr custom
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 30" x 4" x 125 Liters - Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

Bean

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Good news on the rocker MW!

Once you have the board skinned it will dry out really fast.  Just keep the open side up for evaporation.

eDUBz

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The board will dry up quick with it completely open.
@rf.boardworks

magentawave

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Does anyone know exactly what kind of plastic Jimmy Lewis used in his poor mans vacuum video series? (The video will start where he starts laying it down.) And where can you buy it? Home Depot?
8'-2" x 28" x 4" x 99 Liters - Infinity Blurr custom
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 30" x 4" x 125 Liters - Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

jrandy

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The questions was asked before on Badger's thread presenting the videos. Ponobill proposed that it is a cheap painting tarp material on page 4.

https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,31004.0.html

I have yet to do a whole board 'Jimmy Lewis poor mans style'. On small stuff I just use whatever I have at home, kitchen cling wrap and other clear-ish bag films. Sometimes I come across a video of people fixing a boat or airplane wing with the same technique.

I found another thread on Seabreeze mentioning the technique and it sure does look like painting tarp fresh out of the package.

https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/Review/New-Jimmy-Lewis-Foilboard-Continued?groupID=7840157



http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J

surfcowboy

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Adding a note here on the idea of using carbon because it's opaque. You can just add pigment to a layer of glass as UK said to cover. Also another reason to do this is if you don't get the bottom foam fill exactly flat you will need way more than a single 4oz or whatever layer of glass to ap sand through. If you use all glas you can sand a high spot down to the foam again and patch it like a ding, so it's way more forgiving of a backyard shaper.

Keep us posted on this one. You can totally get this board surfable with a little work.

SlatchJim

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I never saw where this repair ended up.  Any updates and photos?

On the subject of repairs, my neighbor came over the other day with a well used funboard he rides occasionally and hopes to teach his 6 year old on in the next few years. It's a thruster with one of the O'Fish'L side fins pushed into the foam.  He's hoping I can resurrect the board, and if not repair the fin box, glass the fin on. Since O'Fish'L is out of business, I think I'm left with the option of glassing it on.

The box is shattered but I think I can Gorilla Glue this back into place and Glass the fin on for a quasi fix (similar to advice given in this thread).  What unknowns don't I know? Tips, techniques, and advice most definitely welcome.  :D

« Last Edit: July 18, 2018, 09:18:25 AM by SlatchJim »

Bean

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A new finbox will save you so much aggravation in the long run.

If you use Gorilla Glue to set the box, just keep in mind that it will expand, so make user everything is lined up and taped down well. 

https://coconutpeets.com/shop?olsFocus=false&olsPage=products/ofishl-finbox


SlatchJim

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Thanks Bean, both for the tip and the link.  My neighbor said, fix it if you can, and if not, maybe it's time for a new board.  I don't think he minds if it doesn't work out.

Bean

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In that case, consider converting it to a single and run a small (maybe even a Proteck) fin.

eastbound

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ive only blown out a finbox once, and that's the only pro repair ive had done in years-always do my own otherwise--i just worried about getting the new box properly aligned--location-wise, but also angle-wise--pros use adjustable jig which holds all fins solid while curing so box alignment is right
Portal Barra 8'4"
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magentawave

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I never saw where this repair ended up.  Any updates and photos?

On the subject of repairs, my neighbor came over the other day with a well used funboard he rides occasionally and hopes to teach his 6 year old on in the next few years. It's a thruster with one of the O'Fish'L side fins pushed into the foam.  He's hoping I can resurrect the board, and if not repair the fin box, glass the fin on. Since O'Fish'L is out of business, I think I'm left with the option of glassing it on.

Been busy but getting close to doing to making the repair and will report back here when I do.

It seems like you could find an FCS or Futures fin somewhere that closely matches the original O'Fishal fin, so why not throw an FCS or Futures box in there?
8'-2" x 28" x 4" x 99 Liters - Infinity Blurr custom
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 30" x 4" x 125 Liters - Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

Bean

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With a little judicial grinding you could shape an Ofishl fin to fit a Futures box.  But, if Coconut Peete has the right box, why not go the easy/right route.

« Last Edit: July 18, 2018, 12:44:58 PM by Bean »

magentawave

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The questions was asked before on Badger's thread presenting the videos. Ponobill proposed that it is a cheap painting tarp material on page 4.

https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,31004.0.html

I have yet to do a whole board 'Jimmy Lewis poor mans style'. On small stuff I just use whatever I have at home, kitchen cling wrap and other clear-ish bag films. Sometimes I come across a video of people fixing a boat or airplane wing with the same technique.

I found another thread on Seabreeze mentioning the technique and it sure does look like painting tarp fresh out of the package.

https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/Review/New-Jimmy-Lewis-Foilboard-Continued?groupID=7840157

I did a relatively small repair on a board last week using the Jimmy Lewis poor mans vac bagging technique and it worked amazingly well! The plastic when stretched using tape made the resin dry so smooth and slick that I hardly had to do any sanding at all.




Adding a note here on the idea of using carbon because it's opaque. You can just add pigment to a layer of glass as UK said to cover. Also another reason to do this is if you don't get the bottom foam fill exactly flat you will need way more than a single 4oz or whatever layer of glass to ap sand through. If you use all glas you can sand a high spot down to the foam again and patch it like a ding, so it's way more forgiving of a backyard shaper.

Keep us posted on this one. You can totally get this board surfable with a little work.


I agree that glassing with multiple layers of 4 oz instead of one layer of 6 oz CARBON would make it easier to sand out the unevenness but I have two concerns...

1) ADDED WEIGHT: This board was super fun to surf because it was only 15 pounds. Obviously I want to keep it as light as possible. By adding multiple layers of 4 oz I'm thinking it will add more weight than one layer of 6 oz carbon. On the other hand, the last time I used 6 oz carbon I was amazed at how much resin it sucked up but I didn't use the Jimmy Lewis poor mans vac bagging technique to squeeze out excess resin but I will this time. I'm concerned about sanding through the 6 oz carbon too so I should probably add a veil layer of cloth over it which will add more weight. I'm thinking as I type this so I'm just not sure yet exactly which route to take. (I've had a note on my desk for the last week to call a glasser I know so I can take the board to him to see what he thinks.)

2) AESTHETICS: If I use multiple layers of 4 oz cloth instead of carbon then I'm faced with what to do about the color so it looks good with the surrounding area. Using carbon will eliminate all of that. Got any ideas?

Instead of the current "V" shape where I cut off the old cloth on the bottom (SEE IMAGES BELOW), I think I'll cut the old cloth just ahead of the "V" cut in a way that matches the curve of the nose and then I'll wrap the cloth around the rails a couple inches on to the deck. If I use carbon then I should be able to make it look like the board originally came that way. (Hobie gave me the same "Hobie" lams the board had before.) If I use regular cloth then I don't know how I'll make it look good. Keep in mind that I'll have to disguise the parts on each rail where the foam got crunched too, which again, is why I'm leaning towards carbon.

Okay, so weight and making the board look great again are my two concerns.

Thanks for reading and if you guys have any feedback then I will greatly appreciate it. :)

8'-2" x 28" x 4" x 99 Liters - Infinity Blurr custom
8'-6" x 29 1/4" x 4' x 118 Liters - Azul Forte Pro custom
9' x 30" x 4" x 125 Liters - Hobie Colin McPhillips custom (15 lbs!)

 


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