Kelly's wave...making that last section

[SUP Sports ®]

Lack of flexibility. Ian, like a few of us can't crouch down (anymore) and lay our back knee on the board. He would probably have to grab the outside rail too, to even have a chance of making that barrel. Back in the day, he would have made it on any board, even if he was taking the lip in the face.

Zackly...
Not a barrel in this pic...but, that down low crouched position with paddle tucked in woulda got him more time in the barrel instead of getting picked off right when the wave started getting interesting...but, it requires enough flexibility to bend your knees...knock on wood there...

You can bury a SUP paddle blade pretty deep without it throwing you off of your board...in fact, I bury mine pretty deep on cutbacks...and, the occasional layback...

[JimK]

Someone who has spent a lot of time (Back in the day) surfing wave pool waves. The one KEY factor most surfers (coming from the ocean) forget to factor in is the difference in buoyancy from saltwater to freshwater
This creates a lag feeling and get you out of sync with the wave fast.

However, I thing Wardogs analysis is "Spot On"

Lastly, I bet Ian didn't make that mistake on his next wave (Remember waves in a wave pool can be EXACTLY duplicated

Ian & I were on the leading edge of wave pool designs back in the mid-eighties HE REALLY BELIEVED then (and probably still does) that they are the future (Olympics/PRO contests

Can't wait till there is one around here (Mid Atlantic)

JimK
Extreme Windsurfing

[supuk]

if this wave behaves anything like the wave garden waves which it looks like it does they behaves very differently to your typical ocean wave and  what you think should work doesn't. The water is doing very different things certainly as far as the wave garden is concerned.

[tautologies]

Yeah, he would have been just fine if he didn't dig the nose.  Two steps back and he would have been a watermelon seed.

He dug the nose in because he lost balance when he stuck the paddle into the lip.

[surfcowboy]

I think the original thought is covered. That board could have made the wave, but there is probably an easier board to do this on.

UK is right, there's a really different feeling on these waves. I'd call it less "suck up" where the wave feels more like it's being pushed up as opposed to what I feel in the ocean where it almost feels like water is being sucked up the face under you.

I've been playing around in little waist high waves on a prone board tucking down, grabbing the rail and  pig dogging backside when the wave starts to close out. It's crazy, like Tall Dude says how long you can keep going with a small wave basically closing out on you and sliding you sideways. If you can keep that rail set, you just keep moving. As a guy coming from SUP back to traditional surfing this has been a revelation and it's changing my standup surfing a bit.

Looking at war dog's pics I could never get how he could get so deep without getting pitched, but after doing this, with less consequences due to smaller board and often a foamie, I can see that once you understand the wave you can take more chances and get much deeper into the pocket. I'm getting much better (and faster) rides now that I'm learning how far you can push it.

I hope we get a pool here soon so I can go surf a repetitive wave for training. Maybe we can all get together and buy out a session and get them to let us SUS a bit.

[coldsup]

Jeez, imagine if I surfed one of those artificial waves....you guys would have enough for a year to analyse. He just got caught out by the wave and fell in....simples.

[joelcr]

Nah.., here's my take on it.  The wave's too small, and the board's too big.

All the made barrels I've seen on a sup involved bigger waves. Much bigger.
Now, a smaller/narrower sup would probably work better though. And a younger
more nimble guy!

Look at some video from Puerto, or central Cal, and you will see that the lip
has to throw out a lot further to work right.

A pocket ride is a different thing, but to bury the board and rider, the tube has to be bigger. Believe me I've tried a lot, and it's not easy. Probably one of the harder things to do in the surfing world.

It's easier, but still hard enough, without the paddle.
Add in the thicker,wider,longer board and the degree of difficulty rises even more.

That said, the wave pool looks awesome for a sup. Sign me up

[jsb]

Nah.., here's my take on it.  The wave's too small, and the board's too big.

And then there's the opposite problem...

[lopezwill]

Good one jsb 

[mrbig]

Just fly to Nantucket!

[clay]

I am really appreciating the insights that people are sharing here.  I had totally forgotten that this human made wave can move differently than an ocean wave, similar to how river wave or boat wake feels different.

Also amazing to hear how many different views there are when we all are looking at the same video.  I am reminded of the stories of investigators of an accident who take eye witness reports and every person's statement is different even though they all were watching the same event.

Here is the original video uploaded by SUP mag:


And here is the footage slowed down to 1/10 the speed:


I am curious if anyone sees anything different at slower speed?  And if their analysis/opinion changes any?

Usually when I watch video that is slowed way down I see that old adage - the hand/foot is quicker than the eye.  Twixtor is applied in the first view (so some artifacts are there), second is just slowed to 10% without twixtor, and third is the original clip.  My reasons for posting are understanding, curiosity, and sharing.

[surfcowboy]

Personally, I see that the paddle hang drags him back and when he corrects he buries his rail.

I think he'd have made it fine with that rig, had he not gotten his paddle hung.

That's my take and I'll defend it til the death... or at least til I lose interest in the thread lol. But seriously, looks like he just got knocked off his game. He wasn't anywhere near the edge of the board's limit. I'll bet he made it the next time.

Good to have a video editor with some good plugins around here!

[mrbig]

Clay, thanks for posting the slow mo.

Ian's board is an aussie style 10'. I own a 9'4" that is similar, but slightly wider.

Paralysis through analysis.

Riding with Cowboy on this one. His high paddle catch forced him to correct right at the spot where the wave speeds up and gets hollow. Caught the outside edge and splash.

And as Jim K. pointed out the water is different, and the wave is artificial.