Kelly's wave...making that last section

[lopezwill]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=50&v=62IXGBPFC7I

  I would like to open up a discussion on what type of board (with the measurements) would be needed to make that last section Cairns is sup surfing here?

  This is in no way disrespectful to I. Cairns surfing.  I'm curious what board measurements would work to make that section comfortably at his height and weight.  The board should also be capable of comfort while standing out the back? A google search shows Cairns at a height of 6'2" and lets say a little over 200 pounds.  He surfs the first part of the wave superbly...I'm more interested in the last part of the wave.

[surfcowboy]

He would have made it had he been ready, as you see if you start and stop it, he catches his paddle and gets off balance.

That Kings could have easily made that wave had he crouched in  maybe 5 seconds earlier.

 But let's hear from some real guys who've been barreled. I'm guessing based on what I'm seeing here.

Headmount? Could he have made that wave on that board?


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[lopezwill]

  Yeah...lots of variables here.  I'm guessing the board at 9'2", 31 across but what do I know.

  On another thought...what a wonderful wave to have for board "Shapers" to figure out what board measurements work for mushy and tubular, larger and smaller types of waves.

[headmount]

He would have made it had he been ready, as you see if you start and stop it, he catches his paddle and gets off balance.

That Kings could have easily made that wave had he crouched in  maybe 5 seconds earlier.

 But let's hear from some real guys who've been barreled. I'm guessing based on what I'm seeing here.

Headmount? Could he have made that wave on that board?


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Yes.  But like you said he just got shanghaied by the speed change.  You learn these things after you surf any wave.  When you see guys make that inside part, you also see that person driving for speed early on.    I'd bet that was Ian's first shot at it.  He won't be doing that again.  That wave appears a tad tricky to me and yes a narrower board would accelerate quicker and fit in a tighter space.  I'd go back to prone surfing if I got a chance to ride it.  If I get my neck fixed then I will.

[supthecreek]

I have often wondered the same thing about Kelly's tube section.
Do you have to get barreled to make it?
or can you run in front of it?

I am a "face surfer" because my back knee is damaged.....
If I try to tuck into a tube, the wave could easily destroy my knee for life, by folding it sideways. So I don't.


Waves were fast and hollow the other day..... I made most by pumping and staying ahead of the tube... (1st pic)
but I fell behind a few that would have been great barrels.... (middle pics)

so I made a pathetic attempt to tuck in (the last two pics)

If I were going to survive Kelly's barrel section, I would need to power ahead of it or get mowed down.

[madeinsantacruz]

His board was too wide to fit in what is a very round tube section.  He basically did everything he could to make it - perfect positioning and in forward trim.  The wave just grabbed all that width and sucked his board up the face causing him to pearl.  I'd like to see someone like Mo Freitas on a 23.5" wide board try it! 

MISC

[Weasels wake]

A couple of things based on watching the full length vid of that ride, on the other thread w/ him.

It looks like he's paying attention to what's right in front of him and below him, not really looking down the line, so that section may have come up on him before adjusting his speed in advance.

Also trying to see his fin setup (very hard) it looks like he might be running a single fin which would make it harder to ride that inside rail down the line, not enough side bite for a wide board in a narrow tube.  So I'm thinking that the board probably could have made that section with better planning in advance, and the right kind of fin setup.
But that's just me.

Or he could have asked Kelly to adjust the wave, those waves are adjustable, but I have no idea on what that entails. 

[SUP Sports ®]

Seems to me that he wasn't expecting it to hollow out there...as it's not like he was running at full speed...it was a playful longboard kinda wave up until that point...
You also have to fully commit to pulling in tight with the paddle...
I think that the nose of the board was too wide for that section and he was standing too far forward causing it to catch a rail...nice to have ample nose rocker in those conditions...

When I ride hollower waves, I find that standing further back on the tail over the fins gives you more speed and control over the board...and, allows you to stall for the tube by stomping or loading up on the tail a bit...when you start to outrun a section...allowing you to try and stay in the pocket...YMMV...

[dns]

Yeah, he would have been just fine if he didn't dig the nose.  Two steps back and he would have been a watermelon seed.

[digger71]

It's got nothing to do with his board.  He caught his paddle in the pitching lip and it pulled him off balance.  Some serious overthinking going on here.

Not saying that board it the perfect shape for the wave but if Ian stubbed his toe walking down the street it wouldn't be worth our time to analyze the thickness of his soles.

[clay]

Thanks for posting the video, cool to see a sup out there. I also would love to see a young pro supper give it a go. 

Seems to me the paddle catch caused the wipeout, the prone equivalent of getting clipped in the head by lip and a cartwheel wipeout.

As far as what board to ride on a KS wave, I suspect a small prone shortboard would be my fist choice.  If I had a dozen or more waves I would try the SUPs I have and several that I can barely stand on.

[covesurfer]

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I'd go back to prone surfing if I got a chance to ride it.  If I get my neck fixed then I will.

Now, that would be cool. I would love it if you start proning.

[SUP Sports ®]

Since we are playing armchair QB...IMO, this wipeout scenario is nowhere near like getting karate chopped by a thick lip on the head riding a prone board...been there done that many times at Puerto Escondido...Humboldt...and, a number of other breaks with heavy water barrels...

Seems to me that he had recovered fine from that last paddle check...he had also paddle checked that wave at least 10 times going into that last section...where he went from Egyptian statue stance with the paddle out front of him...to where it should have been, behind him...and, trying to get into a lower, more powerful, stance to get in the barrel...

Not being able to crouch down fast enough...too much front foot pressure...not moving further back on the board utilizing the tail rocker...board having minimal nose rocker...not anticipating that section...evidenced by the surprised look at the end...I think, all contributed to him fully burying the nose on the board and getting stuffed...

[lopezwill]

SUP Sports..."Nailed it!"

  If he had the same length board with a pointier nose at 29 inches (or less) across, with a narrower tail, most likely would have made it. IMHO.

What a wonderful invention for riders and shapers to work on different type of board dimensions for different types of waves!

Haven't even gotten into how "FINS" change the riding characteristics of the same board while riding on a mushy or hollower wave.?

[TallDude]

Lack of flexibility. Ian, like a few of us can't crouch down (anymore) and lay our back knee on the board. He would probably have to grab the outside rail too, to even have a chance of making that barrel. Back in the day, he would have made it on any board, even if he was taking the lip in the face.