Author Topic: First winter swell  (Read 4151 times)

headmount

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First winter swell
« on: October 24, 2017, 11:56:14 PM »
Well the foilers will argue that they've been out already a few times but they don't need much.  Even harbor bumps are remarkable for them.  But my first day back on my SUS board was yesterday.     

North swell waves really light me up and sunday the foilers were reporting a rising swell at one of their favorite spots but also had sighted a hefty tiger cruising the arena.  The buoys confirmed their reports of the swell but the wind was light N in the afternoon, bringing in some man o war stingers.   The news reported there would be an overnight shift to S winds so I followed the wind reports after the sun went down and sure enough they switched to light S around 8PM.  So i threw the board on and got everything together for a dark thirty depart.   Swell and light S wind spelled good surf conditions.  I woke even earlier than norm, around 4, (had that feeling) ate my pre-made meal, started tanking water and hit the road.   Traffic was heavy going to their 6 am shifts in Wailea.  A car accident looked gristly in the early light but little going in my direction.  Went to the shark spot.  It was good but nobody was out, I was green so I paddled out with three other pals at the much more well known spot. 

How green?  Aside from only five stand up downwinders I hadn't touched a stand up paddle in several months as the surfski had taken over my focus.  My SUS board, which hadn't been used since last March,  had geeko shit and a thick patina of dirt on it.  But somehow I felt fine paddling out.  Hitting my first wall of whitewater I wondered how I would get over still standing but again it just seemed to work.  So I abandoned the nervousness of my long hiatus and proceeded to have an all time session.  A little rusty but one big plus was that the foilers, who were among the better cadre of SUSers, had migrated to another of their favorite spots that featured very long waves, leaving where I was with a pack much easier to contend with.  I did three hours and was shaking by the time I finally paddled in.

Went home, ate, and crashed.  Woke up the sky had gone from blue to grey and a storm moved in.  Overnight we had thunder, lightening, heavy rain and  loss of power throughout Maui.  Today run off made coastal areas largely brown and funky.  Didn't matter to me, I was ruined from my session and read my book all day.  Power just came back.  And that's the way it is.  Get it when you can.


supthecreek

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Re: First winter swell
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2017, 04:45:53 AM »
Welcome back!
Good to hear hm SUPsurf story  :)

digger71

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Re: First winter swell
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2017, 10:50:28 AM »
Looks like a serious swell heading your way for the weekend!  Saw the Peahi contest is on

headmount

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Re: First winter swell
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2017, 11:49:44 AM »
Looks like a serious swell heading your way for the weekend!  Saw the Peahi contest is on
But N winds spell slop