old movies

[OUTSIDEWAVE]

So was watching  Ride the wild Surf. a pretty corny surf flick  but the waves were north shore Hawaii in 1962 The stunt guys surfers were
Mickey Dora,Greg Noll and Butch Van Artsdale. at one point they all ride the same  wave pretty big  on old school long boards no leashes.  It was kinda of a trip to watch Dora  surf with feet roughly parallel and then slip the board sideways.  His style is so distinctive.  you can't help but notice it.  Way Cool

[surfcowboy]

Dude, the footage of him at Malibu on YouTube is incredible.

That side slip is cool but his kick outs, that's what gets me. The one footed step back and swing the nose, unbelievable.