Author Topic: Sunova Vent Plug  (Read 10572 times)

dingfix

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #45 on: August 25, 2017, 04:12:48 AM »
Once I got the plug out I found it was blocked with foam debris, so good to check for that too.   

In my case the plug was totally blocked and it turned out the air was working its way out of the board around the body of the vent itself, so check for any bubbles coming from where the deck skin meets the body of the vent.   When I removed the old vent body I found there was no resin down one side of it and that was the air's escape route.  I ended up glassing-in a new vent body, all good now.

PonoBill

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #46 on: August 25, 2017, 07:57:38 AM »
Having a similar problem with the vent plug on a Bark Dominator (2014) - slow bubbling from the side of the plug even when the board is cool.  Went to take it out to check threads and try to reseat,  but the diameter of the hole around the plug is too small to get a regular 15mm (or any size) socket in. Even tried an extra-thin-wall socket.  Have done this many times with my surf sups but can't figure out what to use to unscrew this one.   Emailed Surftech and Joe Bark but no response.   Anybody know of a tool that would work for this?

Yeah, it's 5/8 (loose 16mm, actually 15.875mm), and the cheesy stamped spark plug socket from any motorcycle tool kit for a bike that uses "D" plugs (most hondas) is perfect. I've taken them out with thin needle nose pliers, but that grips the top, not the bottom of the hex, and it's very weak--just a cover held on with dinky plastic fingers. I robbed one of my bike toolkits and painted the plug wrench flourescent orange and I STILL can't find it.
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Bean

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #47 on: August 25, 2017, 01:41:55 PM »
It's probably laying on top of your hunting cap...

PonoBill

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #48 on: August 25, 2017, 06:13:20 PM »
I just looked for it again, and just found my tube bending cheater. I need to hide that so it doesn't grab my attention, but then I'll never be able to find it again.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

baddog

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #49 on: January 20, 2018, 11:16:30 AM »
Yeah, an old thread, but I thought I would add my two cents regardless.  The Sunova vents come from the SUP Think Tank, same as the LIFTSUP handles.  I get why Tino says don't mess with 'em, I thought mine was wonky and there was absolutely nothing wrong with it.  Board building is dusty work and it's pretty easy to see how the plug doesn't get set right.  Dry the area, unscrew the plug, blow out the hole and brush out all the threads with a tooth brush.  A light film of Silicone on the plug threads, Tighten firmly, but not tight and it will never leak again.  Needless to say, never touch or get anything on the Gore membrane.

My real tip is this.  I always cover my vent openings with a piece of helicopter tape with not much more then a millimeter or two of overlap around the opening.  It might bubble up in the heat or even sink in the cold.  What it does though is prevents any sand, salt or other containment into the plug hole and stops the worry of rinsing the plug area especially after use in saltwater.  Helicopter tape is super pliable and holds it's bond, don't use anything else.  If the interior pressure changes enough, it will release easily, but in everyday conditions mine have never opened ever.

mosh

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #50 on: January 21, 2018, 03:11:37 PM »
Just to add a final update on this thread, the factory did ship me out 2 replacement vents with new rubber seals pretty quick and once I installed the new plug/seal, the issues were resolved and haven't returned.

The newer versions of the plugs are pretty cool as the goretex membrane is fully encased inside the aluminum body of the plug, whereas the older versions had the membrane attached to the bottom of the plug.  The new ones seeem to provide additional protection for the membrane as it's not directly exposed on the outside.
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TallDude

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #51 on: January 21, 2018, 07:27:54 PM »
I think the real worry that Tino was having with a novice (mechanical kook) removing or more dangerously reinstalling the plug was metal vs. plastic. That male threaded aluminum plug could easily crack the bottom of the female threaded plastic plug housing. An extra turn tightening the plug and the bottom of the plastic housing would just crack off. If that happens, then you'd be relying solely on the thread sealant if any was installed. I have a tenancy to over tighten (torque) everything. I try to use a torque wench as much as possible when working on cars. I inherited that trait from the dad, who I watched bust the heads off of many a bolts ::)
You know when your friends take off on their dirt bikes, and then you realized your handle bars are loose. So you get your dad to tighten them...... and he busts them off instead......     

PonoBill

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Re: Sunova Vent Plug
« Reply #52 on: January 22, 2018, 09:24:20 AM »
Torque wrenches are always a good idea, but short wrenches work almost as well. I have a full set of short wrenches and short socket ratchets and breakers for every size, english and metric, and rarely use long ones--if you need to reef on a bolt or nut then it's time for the torque wrench.

An ancient Rolls Royce service manual I saw listed very few torque specifications. Their primary spec was "a short wrench and a reasonable man." My dad considered himself a bit of a mechanic--he worked for GMC Truck as parts manager--but he was pretty ham-fisted.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.