Author Topic: Still fun  (Read 2390 times)

surfinJ

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Still fun
« on: May 17, 2017, 10:42:47 PM »
The web cam showed Colas's spot full of a black dot infestation.  My other spot would be likewise overrun. The day was just too nice. So even though someone seems to have stolen the sandbanks from my local, it was....

Surfing in a crowd or alone, fighting for quality, or enjoying the water and session on a lesser wave
Seems like an easy choice.


TallDude

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2017, 11:50:14 PM »
Fun but a little risky...for your board.
It's not overhead to me!
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Badger

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2017, 03:36:45 AM »
Even a closeout beach break can be good practice, as long as you can stand the frustration.
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SlatchJim

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2017, 08:21:37 AM »
On the other hand, your wave count was through the roof!  :D

Night Wing

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2017, 09:11:48 AM »
@surfinJ

I'd give anything right now to sup surf, no matter how big/small the waves or just take my sup for a leisurely flat water paddle. Believe me, healing from surgery is no fun.

Thanks for sharing your video.
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supthecreek

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #5 on: May 18, 2017, 11:05:55 AM »
Nice..... "dropkick" surfing
       drop in - kick out.
Good to see your stoke overrules your better judgment.  ;D

SUPcheat

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2017, 11:11:36 AM »
People wonder why I hang around my haunts, but I would rather have 80 percent of those breaks than five percent of the saturated breaks.

I probably never would have learned if it weren't for Supcheatlandia and the fact that even around here anybody seldom wanted it.
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SUP Leave

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2017, 12:09:03 PM »
I have a spot near me that is like that. It hardly ever gets surfed, but for training purposes it is pretty good, other than getting planted on the beach.

I take my kids and their friends to that spot to learn to catch green waves. Bring a foamie or my Bic slug, plus boogies and skim boards. They love it because they can basically wade/drag the board out the back and then 4 paddles to be at the "peak". They mostly just catch, stand, then dive over the back before the explosion. They learn much faster get ups when the wave is only 3 seconds long.

The beauty of it is when I tell them that riding those 3' shore pounders is WAY more dangerous than what will happen out in the lineup. The comfort of the shore is the only thing they are missing.

I rode my All Wave at the spot lots of times when I was first SUSing, that All Wave (and myself) took some absolute hammerings , but catching 100 short fast waves in a session really builds the skill. It is 100% still fun.
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surfercook

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2017, 12:48:47 PM »
At least it was glassy and totally empty. I often have to endure a crowd for the good stuff. Give a few up but worth it once you hook up.
btw- what's that concrete looking structure on the beach? WW2 bunker? I would love to visit France for a srf trip. I remember playing a srf video game waaaay back and there were all kinds of obstacles in the France portion of the game.

One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
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surfinJ

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Re: Still fun
« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2017, 09:24:54 AM »
The good waves were elsewhere, and crowded.
I picked the solo fun.

Those are german bunkers. They were up and down the coast, waiting for the invasion that never came. Must have been a cool posting compared to dunkirk.

 


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