How to catch waves

[SUPlakes]

I've SUPed for a while, but mostly lake stuff.  I have good balance and board feet as I'm always messing around on my board and often SUP on small windsurfing boards on the lake. 

I've traditionally surfed a couple times, but over the course of years so have caught a couple waves but never got the hang of it. 

One thing I'm torn on which foot forward.  I wakeboard, water ski, wake surf, snowboard all regular but skate board goofy.  Do you put more weight on your front or back foot and which foot has more control over the board?  Also, do paddle perpendicular to the wave or try to catch it at a slight angle? 

I'll look up YouTube videos too, just thought I'd ask her first with those specific questions and for any other feedback. 

[Bean]

Here is a good way to find out which "foot" someone is.  Push them lightly from behind when they don't expect it; their lead foot will usually extend to avoid the fall.

This works best on a sandy beach or on fresh power.

Do you ride switch on the snowboard?

[nalu-sup]

Not sure why your skateboard stance would be different from the rest of your sports which is unusual, but I would go with the majority of your sports, partly because they are the majority, and partly because they happen on water, liquid or frozen.
Your question about which foot has the weight and which one controls the board is maybe best answered by relating to snowboarding, which I am guessing is where the question came from. Surfing is like snowboarding in powder where your weight is more on your back foot; not like on hard pack where you weight the front foot more. Many people like myself who surfed for years or decades before getting on a snowboard, made the mistake of trying to drive into a snowboard turn on packed snow off the back foot causing the board to shoot across the hill.
You also mentioned that you paddle small windsurf boards sometimes, which makes me guess that you windsurf. Foot steering a planing short windsurf board is just like surfing, and carving a tight jibe is just like carving a tight bottom turn on a wave. In both sports you initially turn mostly off the back foot, but at higher levels often enter the turn driving onto the front foot, and then use the back foot to drive and hook the last part of the turn. Your other water sports like water skiing and wake boarding should be pretty similar.
As far as take off angle; it is easiest to just think of paddling in the direction the wave is traveling, so that you can match your speed and momentum to the wave. In some instances where the wave is steep and about to peel fast down the line, we might take off more on a diagonal to avoid being closed out by the wall, but it requires a pretty steep takeoff to catch a wave on a diagonal. The takeoff angle on an SUP is a little trickier both to see and to do. We are facing out to see before the wave arrives, and as it approaches we often paddle in a curve to aim back towards the beach where the wave is headed, so we might be curving around at an angle to the wave right up until the last moment.
Having watched and taught a lot of people how to surf, with the skills you have from your other sports, I am going to make two guesses on why you might be having trouble getting the hang of surfing; 1. You may be letting the board get out in the flats in front of the wave before trying to turn, which will not work when you are learning because you will lose the speed necessary to carve the board. 2. You may not be stepping your back foot back on the board to get it over or at least near the fins where the board wants to turn from. If you jump to your feet and are standing near the middle of the board, it will not turn well if at all; same is true surfing an SUP. Once again if you windsurf, your rear foot needs to be either in the rear strap, or next to it, if you want to carve a tight turn (rear foot is out of course for jibing, but should remain in the strap when wavesailing).
Hope some of this helps.

[TallDude]

Here's an annotated sequence on a little waist high wave. Whether you are regular or goofy it still applies. If you were are goofy you would be going left......

[Badger]

Here is a good way to find out which "foot" someone is.  Push them lightly from behind when they don't expect it; their lead foot will usually extend to avoid the fall.

Another way is to run and slide on a slippery floor in socks.

Anyone who grew up sliding on ice as a kid automatically knows which foot goes in front.

[SUPlakes]

Awesome, thanks for the replies and tips.  Some great info.

Here is a good way to find out which "foot" someone is.  Push them lightly from behind when they don't expect it; their lead foot will usually extend to avoid the fall.

This works best on a sandy beach or on fresh power.

Do you ride switch on the snowboard?

I've done that before and my left foot extends.  I do ride switch on the snowboard but not a lot and not as good switch.  Most sports I feel ok switching it up, but I'm definitely right footed.  Which ever foot uses more weight / control, I typically feel more comfortable use my right leg. 

Not sure why your skateboard stance would be different from the rest of your sports which is unusual, but I would go with the majority of your sports, partly because they are the majority, and partly because they happen on water, liquid or frozen.
Your question about which foot has the weight and which one controls the board is maybe best answered by relating to snowboarding, which I am guessing is where the question came from. Surfing is like snowboarding in powder where your weight is more on your back foot; not like on hard pack where you weight the front foot more. Many people like myself who surfed for years or decades before getting on a snowboard, made the mistake of trying to drive into a snowboard turn on packed snow off the back foot causing the board to shoot across the hill.
You also mentioned that you paddle small windsurf boards sometimes, which makes me guess that you windsurf. Foot steering a planing short windsurf board is just like surfing, and carving a tight jibe is just like carving a tight bottom turn on a wave. In both sports you initially turn mostly off the back foot, but at higher levels often enter the turn driving onto the front foot, and then use the back foot to drive and hook the last part of the turn. Your other water sports like water skiing and wake boarding should be pretty similar.
As far as take off angle; it is easiest to just think of paddling in the direction the wave is traveling, so that you can match your speed and momentum to the wave. In some instances where the wave is steep and about to peel fast down the line, we might take off more on a diagonal to avoid being closed out by the wall, but it requires a pretty steep takeoff to catch a wave on a diagonal. The takeoff angle on an SUP is a little trickier both to see and to do. We are facing out to see before the wave arrives, and as it approaches we often paddle in a curve to aim back towards the beach where the wave is headed, so we might be curving around at an angle to the wave right up until the last moment.
Having watched and taught a lot of people how to surf, with the skills you have from your other sports, I am going to make two guesses on why you might be having trouble getting the hang of surfing; 1. You may be letting the board get out in the flats in front of the wave before trying to turn, which will not work when you are learning because you will lose the speed necessary to carve the board. 2. You may not be stepping your back foot back on the board to get it over or at least near the fins where the board wants to turn from. If you jump to your feet and are standing near the middle of the board, it will not turn well if at all; same is true surfing an SUP. Once again if you windsurf, your rear foot needs to be either in the rear strap, or next to it, if you want to carve a tight turn (rear foot is out of course for jibing, but should remain in the strap when wavesailing).
Hope some of this helps.

Awesome, thanks.  I'm not much of a skateboarder - just cruise around.  I think I picked it up goofy as a kid just because I felt more comfortable have my strong foot (right) planted on the front of the board.  I also right my stand up jet ski goofy (right foot forward) but could probably ride regular too.

Good comparison with snowboarding.  I don't ride a lot anymore, but just ride east coast hard pack.  I think with surfing, I've had too much weight forward and on the front foot (as you mentioned in point #2).  I'll try shifting.  I'm also going to only ride regular as prior I would try mostly goofy.  I think part of my problem too with surfing is that I only try it once or twice every few years.  I'm sure if I took a lesson for a week and had good waves I'd get the hang of it (I don't make that many trips to the coast).   I did pick up wake surfing immediately but had a great instructor and of course had a perfect consistent wave.

[SUPlakes]

Just saw this video too - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfJLHVceYGI
So feet are in the normal flat water position and then switch to staggered once on the wave. 

[SUPcheat]

I think catching your first wave has something to do with being a flailing bozo.  That's how I did it.

[Bean]

That's how I still do it!  But, it is starting to look more deliberate...

[supthecreek]

Hi Lakes
 
The basics:

Your feet will know which one goes in front, the strong foot will take back (controlling) position. Don't think about it and it will happen.

Small waves, calm wind, calm water (in a perfect world) 
Pick a place with deep water next to a sandbar, so you can paddle out easily...see picture of ideal setup

Ride on the soft edge of the break, with a gentle sloping wave

Foot position: Modified surf stance
Back foot slightly Aft of the handle (center point of board) .... turned slightly towards the rail
Front foot pointing straighish forward, just forward of the handle
(See Picture)
This gives you both side to side stability, and front to back stability

Paddle on a slight angle towards the deep water, as a wave approaches.
Try not to switch sides with the paddle as the wave gets to you (you stop)
Paddle early and with control

As the wave lifts the tail, continue paddling and lean forward, onto your front foot, to brace you as you gain speed down the wave.

LOOK in the direction you want to go.... your board will turn because you shift your weight towards where your eyes are looking.
TRY IT.... Stand up right now, settle in place... then turn your head to look right... your body follows the head.
That little weight shift is all you need to gently turn your board.

Yesterday, my friend Lisa turned into a surfer!
She has struggled to turn and ride across a wave for years because she always surfed in the wrong place on the wave.
I went out with her at a break with a gentle shoulder and gave her these tips.
See the pictures of her 1st awesome ride in the slot... all the way to the end! Sooo cool!

Have fun learning this awesome sport and have patience... I fell 100 time the 1st day (after 50 years of surfing)

[Dusk Patrol]

These are short and helpful:

Feet on the centerline for stability and control:




Low center of gravity when dropping in:

[Board Stiff]

Creek's advice helped me immensely to get comfortable catching waves. One other thing I took away that helped a lot is to point the board parallel to the waves and beach, looking out to sea while waiting for one. When you're ready to go for one, start paddling on the side of the board that's facing the oncoming waves. On smaller surf SUPs especially, this will naturally turn you so that you're facing toward the beach as you start to paddle hard before the drop.

[WhatsSUP]

Love the "Technique" posts....always enlightening!

Creeker: Your comment about Lisa is soooooo cool.  I know a ton of us instantly felt the stoke she must've had when she "turned into a surfer"......

[SUPlakes]

Unfortunately my beach trip was canceled because my wife and kid have colds.  I'm dying to get out on some waves and try the tips, so I may even do a day trip if conditions are promising.

I did take my board to the lake yesterday and played around with foot placement.  It felt very natural quickly shifting my foot position (especially right foot back), shifting weight and moving feet around and keeping my feet along the center line.  I also played around with how far back I could go and slapping the nose on the water and playing around. 

I think learning to balance on my 9' 24" windsurfing boards has helped a great deal as my 10'4" Bic Duratec SUP now feels like a barge.  Now I just need more TOW (time on waves).

Thanks again all for taking the time to help!

[robcasey]

Starting out, take off perpendicular to a wave to get the basic feel down. Trick is while watching the wave coming from behind you and surfers on your sides, many paddler paddle shafts tend to paddle at an angle over the board thus turning the board out of being lined up.  So keep a vertical shaft while looking behind.

A few tips..
-Pick your wave, start to accelerate depending on normal speed or size of incoming wave
-step way back if a big or fast wave, but not as far back for smaller (3-4' waves)
-crouch/squat as wave hits you in staggered stance or surfer's stance while accelerating
-stick paddle behind you if you can't turn as a rudder to go down wave straight or lean/carve as needed to turn
-walk up to nose when wave gets small and loses power
-with some speed still on the wave, pull a cross bow turn (but static blade, like a rudder) to spin in a 180 back around to paddle out.
-step on tail while paddling over incoming waves paddling out. very common for folks to stop paddling when they go over a wave. short fast cadence to get speed vs longer strokes
-if you get tippy - paddle.  don't rise up and put your blade above your head and/or try to balance - get low and paddle.