Fin Jigs, buying or making.

[surfcowboy]

I have the same type of templates for bahne's as jrandy. My futures new on should nest like the "real" ones so you just set it once.

I'm in the desert but I'll pull those out this week and see if you can open them as dwg files. Might take a few pm's but def worth it.

[LaPerouseBay]

/
The router would also have to have a compatible base and the hole in the base would need to be concentric to the collet/cutter.
/

I use the bosch system myself.  It moves between tools quickly and it's easy to adjust the concentric.  As you can imagine, it's important to have the bit centered in the metal guide.  Be sure that your router is not too sloppy as it travels up and down.  A sloppy router will change that concentric as it moves.  If the bit hits the guide it breaks a lot of stuff.  Trust me on that one.
 

/
Woodcraft's router bushing kit seems to be dialed in for .250" templates...too bad my local 1/4" Masonite is .220".
They also sell singles. Maybe I'll get a single bushing and locking ring that can take a 1/2" OD cutter and have a machinist at work grind it down to .200" guide land.
/

Yes, that will work.  Take the template to the machinist and show him what you are doing.  He will grind it so the land is shy of the template.  As you are well aware, if the land is the same thickness as the template, the guide will scratch the surfboard. 

I'm a big fan of plexiglass myself, it allows me to see the work underneath, very nice for centerlines.

[TallDude]

I like the plexiglass as well. My Futures jig has a fin box removal template on the opposite end. Doesn't need to be super tight on the removal template accuracy. It's just to grind out the old box. Also attached is a picture of my Getto CNC box bottom 'Single Concave Jig'. 

[surfcowboy]

TD, how does that bottom router work? Sorry, just getting back to this thread.

[supuk]

I have just been drawing up a jig for routeing futures longboard boxes as I wanted a system that I can use the same router and bit I use for installing both standard future boxes as well as the longboard boxes. The plan is to cnc the base plate and print the donut.

[jrandy]

Charlie, looks good.

I'd machine the doughnut too unless you know the printer is capable down to 0.1mm

Add pin holes and split/flip so the undercuts become step-downs from the top view.

I can 'fix' a copy in Fusion360 if you want.

BJ, check your email.

[surfcowboy]

Thx, J.

The zone, here making all these "uncool" boards is fast becoming the goto place for creating your own surfcraft. Grateful to have so many minds (and hands) working on these issues for home builders.

[supuk]

Charlie, looks good.

I'd machine the doughnut too unless you know the printer is capable down to 0.1mm

Add pin holes and split/flip so the undercuts become step-downs from the top view.

I can 'fix' a copy in Fusion360 if you want.

BJ, check your email.

I have a prusia i3 mk2s on order which can print down to 50 microns so it should be ok for test preposes at least. I will also machining some but like you say it would require some registration work but shouldn't be to hard to set up. only thing is my surfboard cnc is not really optimised for cutting anything to hard so I'm actually starting to design and build a second cnc to cut anything up to aluminium to a high quality cut and then cnc will probably be the way to go.

[PonoBill]

Spectacular printer for the price. Did you get a real one from Prusa or one of the chinese versions? I like the open source nature of the printer. Prusa has demonstrated once again that open source products can be moneymakers. Pretty good sized company now. I don't own one, but if I replace my old printerbot+ I'd almost certainly choose that. I mostly use my Form1 for printing even though it's more expensive to run and has a more limited choice of materials. the Printerbot is pretty rough. I'll be interested to hear about your experience. Last thing I need is another toy to play with, but that's an interesting printer.

[supuk]

Spectacular printer for the price. Did you get a real one from Prusa or one of the chinese versions? I like the open source nature of the printer. Prusa has demonstrated once again that open source products can be moneymakers. Pretty good sized company now. I don't own one, but if I replace my old printerbot+ I'd almost certainly choose that. I mostly use my Form1 for printing even though it's more expensive to run and has a more limited choice of materials. the Printerbot is pretty rough. I'll be interested to hear about your experience. Last thing I need is another toy to play with, but that's an interesting printer.

I got a genuine one from mr prusa direct, I have seen copy's and the quality is not there and seam far less reliable due to cheap electronic component and I would rather pay more and not have to f!!ck about with it for hours trying to set it up. The genuine also comes with the auto bed level and has a larger bed plus they have also just released a cool multi material option too. Only problem is there is a 7 week wait on them however that's probably a sign of a good product.

[PonoBill]

The most interesting things for me is the auto level that compensates for even a warped bed and the precision bed heater. Anyone who has used these things for more than just printing chessmen knows the problems that arise from either a misaligned bed or one that's hot in the middle and cold on the edges. If your first few passes don't stick, especially with high temp ABS, then your print is screwed. You come back in an hour and find a wad on the plate--or a broken belt. Been there, done that. One of the reasons the Form1 is more of a "push go and walk away" printer. But laser/resin printers are messier, the resin is expensive, and you have your choice of clear or clear. 

[supuk]

Yes that is cool it even accounts for squareness of the machine which is very cool, that was all the stuff that made it a easy choice for me. I have been using a robo3d which has been very reliable and is actually quite cheap but the development program and small company support of prusa was to good to turn down

I would love a resin printer but the cost of the resin makes it quite in atractive. Hopfully it won't be to many years till the price of the printers that can print metal come down signifactly. I saw some titanium prints at the f1 gp in melobourne that were amazing!

[PonoBill]

I've seen sintered cerametal prints and alloys that are impossible to manufacture any other way. Some of the titanium alloys separate so quickly they can't be cast except in spincasting (or maybe in orbit). Spacex prints a lot of their rocket components. I think even the nozzles.

[supuk]

ok back towards the topic,  it took a while to figure out the numbers but if anyone wants to try printing a donut for ether the standard or longboard jig drop me a message and i will send you the stl. I'm a bit worried the inner flange will not be clean enough after the support structure is removed so if that is the case it would just mean printing it in two parts so that that flange is on the printer bed and the lower part clips or glues on.

[PonoBill]

Flip it over to print or just make the flange a little thicker and sand it flat on a glass plate.