Wrapping cloth around a sharp angle

[clinto]

My bote HD got the second crack in the sharp nose last weekend when i was unloading it from the truck. The tip on these things is so narrow and sticks out quite a bit so it just is asking for dings all the time. I took it to a guy last time and he did a fairly poor job. It seems the paint was most of the structure on the ridge of the nose and it was soft when i pushed on the area. not much cloth there to begin with. I cut out most of the nose tip and removed about an 1/8" of foam behind the glass to fill with resin. I filled the whole void with resin and q-cell so there is a serious amount of epoxy along the entire nose now. I tried to get some cloth on it last night after i sanded it all down and it kept popping up due to the sharp angles. I want to wrap 2 layers of 6oz on the entire area i sanded down but cant get it to stay put. Should i do a wrap with plastic or something to help aid in this? Thanks for any tips.

[TallDude]

https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,31914.0.html

[clinto]

Thanks TD. i notice you have extra cloth coming down over the green tape. At what point to you remove the extra cloth and how do you cut it?

[PonoBill]

The Dude is being a bit fancier than you need to be because he wanted to match carbon to carbon. I'd say you don't need carbon there and using the right fiberglass will make the repair a lot easier. You'll find 4oz satin drapes and forms very easily. Satin is actually a weave pattern that skips a couple of threads with each warp and woof, which makes the fabric form and drape more easily. I'd cut patches about an inch or two wider than your repair with the first patch being the biggest and subsequent patches being a little smaller. Sand off the paint and taper the existing glass back about an inch or two. Test the drape and conformation by smoothing the glass into place while it's dry with your fingers. You'll see that it lies down nicely and stays put. Don't try to leave it in place and wet through it, take it off and paint the nose with a thin layer of epoxy and lay on your first patch, wearing surgical gloves so you can smooth it down. paint on more epoxy, making certain you get a full wetting, but keep it sparse. You can prepreg the glass on a table if you want, but you'll find the floppiness of satin works against you and the edges might unravel. Lay on all your patches. I'd probably do five or six to have a good sacrificial sanding layer. Let it set full hard and hand sand it. With that tight turn a power sander could cut through in a heartbeat.

You can do belt and suspenders by taping on a layer of plastic to pull everything flat and press the layers hard onto each other, but the right glass will make this an easy repair.

[clinto]

Awesome walk through. Thanks Pono.

[TallDude]

Thanks TD. i notice you have extra cloth coming down over the green tape. At what point to you remove the extra cloth and how do you cut it?

The tape is a shield, a skirt, and an edge. It prevents drips from running onto areas you want to stay clean. I makes a clean termination edge that you can follow with a razor blade. Once the epoxy has set to the point of being tacky, you can remove the overlapping excess. Or you can leave it, let the epoxy dry, peal it up to the bonded edge, cut it off with a razor blade or scissors, and disc sand the edge clean. I prefer to wait a few hours, and cut the excess off, and remove the tape. Like Pono said, with 4oz satin E-glass, it lays down pretty well. CF is like Burlap. It's stiff and doesn't wetout that well. In my thread, there is a picture of the tail of the board. I just used a couple of layers of 4oz E glass. It's way easier to work with.