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Author Topic: How to..  (Read 3031 times)

DavidJohn

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How to..
« on: January 16, 2017, 05:05:46 PM »

PonoBill

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Re: How to..
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2017, 06:08:47 PM »
Nice. Didn't see any foam cores for the foil, but that was pretty much all the bits.

I've been thinking a lot about the bottom of a foil board. Seems to me that the board shape has to be right for the foil. I don't think retrofitting a standard board would be optimal.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Night Wing

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Re: How to..
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2017, 08:52:34 PM »
Wow! I would like to know how many weeks that took to complete? Interesting video that's for sure.
Blue Planet Duke: 10'5" x 32" x 4.5" @ 190 Liters (2 Dukes)
Sup Sports Hammer: 8'11" x 31" x 4" @ 140 Liters
SUP Sports One World: 11'1" x 30" x 4.5" @ 173 Liters

Bean

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Re: How to..
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2017, 07:22:09 AM »
Nice presentation, really makes you appreciate the work that goes into custom stuff.  I was surprised that he was pulling 20-25in Hg in the bagging process, but I guess that makes sense since he's working with wood core.  (Reminds me how little I really know)

dns

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Re: How to..
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2017, 05:40:35 PM »
Nice. Didn't see any foam cores for the foil, but that was pretty much all the bits.

I've been thinking a lot about the bottom of a foil board. Seems to me that the board shape has to be right for the foil. I don't think retrofitting a standard board would be optimal.

Ditto, I think the "Tomo" types are going to be the best. Short, no windage up in the nose, and they pop up on a plane super easy with any sort of a bump. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a used 7'2" or 7'4" Hypernut to retrofit a foil to.

PonoBill

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Re: How to..
« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2017, 07:02:17 PM »
Nice presentation, really makes you appreciate the work that goes into custom stuff.  I was surprised that he was pulling 20-25in Hg in the bagging process, but I guess that makes sense since he's working with wood core.  (Reminds me how little I really know)

I do 20" for hard foam. It makes a difference in how the layers are integrated and the amount of resin remaining. It won't crush the foam but it will distort it if there are any compound curves. It's why the Geezerfoil has an aluminum backer plate with a corrugation. On the first try the dihedral laid flat.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2017, 07:04:42 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Bean

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Re: How to..
« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2017, 09:12:27 PM »
I've always kept my board repairs below 7" out of concern of pulling too much resin out.  Maybe time to step it up.

808sup

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Re: How to..
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2017, 10:06:46 PM »
Nice. Didn't see any foam cores for the foil, but that was pretty much all the bits.

I've been thinking a lot about the bottom of a foil board. Seems to me that the board shape has to be right for the foil. I don't think retrofitting a standard board would be optimal.

Ditto, I think the "Tomo" types are going to be the best. Short, no windage up in the nose, and they pop up on a plane super easy with any sort of a bump. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a used 7'2" or 7'4" Hypernut to retrofit a foil to.
Starboard is thinking the same thing. In believe the 2017  7'3" hypernut is designed around foilers. It's supposed to come with a Tuttle box so you can run it with your starboard/ go/ foil.

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Re: How to..
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2017, 07:31:13 AM »
why wouldnt a standard board be ok for a foil?

 


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