Author Topic: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?  (Read 9344 times)

Byronmaui

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Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« on: September 20, 2007, 08:13:41 PM »
I personally catch the wave when it has some wall to it. This means I usually take a quick turn around and 4 strokes to begin the ride. I have tried to go beyond the line up and catch it earlier but I fail. I think I catch it this way because I have only been on shortboards for 30 years. I have not been in waves yet over 5 feet so will this quick turnaround work? Please share how you catch a wave.

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Byron

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2007, 11:21:42 AM »
You have been on only shortboards for 30 years but never been in surf over 5 feet?! ...nothing personal but you must be joking !

Paddle-Plappe

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2007, 11:43:20 AM »
ONly 5 feet rider!  :D
As regular paddler and goofy surfer, I switch during take off.

Byronmaui

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2007, 11:49:26 AM »
Sorry I meant that when I started stand up surfing a few months ago I had not been in surf over 5 feet yet. 

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Byron

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2007, 12:07:14 PM »
..Got it    with your ocean and wave judgement you've aquired over the years, its just a matter of time before it all kicks in on your stand up board. No need to tell an experienced surfer how to catch waves...it's in you already..!

Byronmaui

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2007, 12:13:27 PM »
..Got it    with your ocean and wave judgement you've aquired over the years, its just a matter of time before it all kicks in on your stand up board. No need to tell an experienced surfer how to catch waves...it's in you already..!

I was interested in if the quick turnaround in bigger surf works or do you have to go way outside the impact zone and paddle early for the wave.

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Byron

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2007, 12:28:42 PM »
Byron, In my experience it depends on the swell.. I have been able to catch simple ocean chop when it begins to lift. When a good size set approaches, it only takes a few strokes to get the needed exceleration for the drop. Its all about positioning and line up, even a late take-off is makable simply because you're already standing..( plus,its a blast to make one)....Rick

Tom

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2007, 01:43:39 PM »
Byron, In my experience it depends on the swell.. I have been able to catch simple ocean chop when it begins to lift. When a good size set approaches, it only takes a few strokes to get the needed exceleration for the drop. Its all about positioning and line up, even a late take-off is makable simply because you're already standing..( plus,its a blast to make one)....Rick

I think the principal here is the surfer needs to paddle faster than the speed the wave is rising. This is why they use long narrow (fast paddleing) boards on large surf, i.e. Wiamea guns. There is a theroretical limit to how large a surfer can paddle into a wave because a surfer just can't paddle faster than a 60 foot wave rises. (not sur eif the limit is 60 ft though). This is why windsurfers and tow-in surfers have been able to take off on such enormous wave. Just wonder where the SUP limit is.

Allan Cheateaux

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2007, 08:13:41 AM »
Please share how you catch a wave.

 I like to use this method...




Then  I put it in my pocket...

surfpainter

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2007, 08:31:40 AM »
...theres a comedien in every ocean  :D

Nate Burgoyne

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2007, 12:00:18 PM »
Shoot brother...just go for it! Paddle out to an outer reef wave or paddle out in the dark before the regular crew shows up, and just go for it. You'll go over falls, through the spin cycle, get caught inside, miss some, and all that.....and then, you'll get this magic ride, and it'll all start to click for you.

Every board has a different shape, some with more glide than others, every wave is a different shape, some steep and some sloping, and wave speeds vary so much that, in my opinion, there isn't a surefire answer. Some waves on some days require more effort to get in them, and other waves on other days allow you to just turn and go.  Just pick your wave cut loose, smile, and charge...always surfing with Aloha of course.

Let us know how it goes.
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stoneaxe

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #11 on: October 21, 2007, 10:37:22 PM »
I know this technique doesn't work.


But it takes skill to bury the nose and peel off the back in one move.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

Blane Chambers

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2007, 11:55:21 PM »
Here's something that makes things easier...
Practice in flat water.    Practice turning around quickly then doing sprints for short distances at maximum power with your feet in the surf stance or at least one foot slightly behind the other...   Visualize a wave behind you.       This way when its time to hit the surf you are used to the stance and the power paddling...   Some examples below of full power take offs....

While in the surf stance you can get way more torque to get into the wave...



You can see how much leverage is being used here...


Kekoa Uemura turns to get the wave while Stewart looks on...


When you get better you can run to the nose and take off hanging five like Kekoa Uemura is doing here...




Derek takes off on a chunky one...


Hope this stuff helps...

Aloha,
Blane

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« Last Edit: October 24, 2007, 12:03:13 AM by Blane Chambers »

Byronmaui

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2007, 01:56:38 AM »
Blane thanks for the pics. Here is what I played around with last weekend. I hung with the surfers in the line up and when a wave came I paddled towards the wave then made a quick 3 stroke turn around and then stroked right into the wave while in my surf stance. This was done on your 10 footer and I am looking forward to doing it on my smaller board when it shows up.

Aloha

Byron

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Re: Wave riding how do you catch the wave?
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2007, 08:00:34 AM »
Blane,

Looks like fun conditions.  We had nice waves, but too much wind already at 7:30.  Argghhh!

Guy Hagi had Stand Up pictured at the end of last nights forecast.  Good overhead wave shot, was that you guys?

 


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