Author Topic: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)  (Read 9924 times)

devon_sup_surf

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2016, 01:22:35 AM »
Wow guys thank you so much I can't believe the number of responses and good advice in such a short period of time- this must be a really active forum.


Thank you to everyone- I'm going to do everything people say

paddle much harder into the wave
take up  surf stance and experiment with going over or under the wave
absorb much more shock with my legs
use the rip
assess the sets coming in and go out during a quiet period
make sure I'm pulling on the paddle as the wave hits me
brace nice and low as I come out of the wave

Phew- what a great forum!


Off-Shore

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2016, 04:25:38 AM »
If the whitewater is just too big to paddle through you just have to bail. If there are more behind it it helps to have a tail handle and hold the board close then when the set's over jump back on and resume paddling. Trying to get back up between waves sometimes is a waste of time, depending on the period. Try to just lose as little ground as possible. If you're getting hit when you first paddle out it may be you aren't timing the sets well. It's just a lot of practice and patience when you're taking a 10 wave set on the head.

I don't SUS that often but when I do, I know the pain of reeling in a 10' leash when in the impact zone and just getting the board back and getting hit by the next wave, and repeating this several times and being exhausted by the time the set has rolled through. The tail handle can help you avoid all of this. There is one or two great threads on the zone about tail handles.. here is one:

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,25430.0.html
« Last Edit: August 15, 2016, 04:27:10 AM by Off-Shore »
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stoneaxe

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2016, 07:16:06 AM »
.....if a lull comes paddle like crazy  :)

Best advice of the thread..... :)
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supthecreek

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2016, 07:30:23 AM »
There have been a lot of good techniques discussed, for paddling over whitewater.
It is fun and efficient, if the waves are smallish, but I do not challenge bigger whitewater from a standing position.

So many reasons for me not to:
It severely risks damage to my hamstrings or weak knee.
much greater risk of catching a board in the face
total loss of control over my board, meaning a longer recovery time for the next wave.

I will only approach head high whitewater standing, to kick my board over, which keeps me close to the board for quick recovery.

Our waves are similar to what you have in Devon and when it's head high, there is a LOT of whitewater to navigate.

What I find works extremely well is... being old  ;)
It makes me think my way out.

I look at the water (not the waves) near the beach.... which way is it flowing? How are the sets timed?
Most beaches have a deeper spot near shore, where the waves backoff a bit and have much less power…. that is where the water exits the beach.

On a big day, I will launch off the beach, while a set is breaking outside
Personally, I usually stay on my knees till I get past the whitewater.... my plan is to surf..... not get hurt.

I will launch "up-current" from the "deep" spot and use the water flow to get me outside faster.
When I arrive at the deep spot, I will hold my position, though the diminished whitewater, until the set passes
then I paddle my ass off, going with the current, not against it.
SUPs paddle much faster than prone boards and all I need is a few second lull to get passed the breaking waves.

I surf a lot of overhead days, and I get out easily... because I study the beach before I go out.
I don't paddle out where I will interfere with riders on the wave.

It may be time for me to make a video of the different approaches to paddling out…. I have some beach footage that shows a variety of success and failure.

I put together some pics that show many of the options discussed in this thread.

Caribsurf

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2016, 09:47:39 AM »
As always Creek very detailed, thorough and full of GREAT photos..well done.

One more thing VERY IMPORTANT thing I forgot to mention is , one way to help paddling back out, is to keep an eye on what is coming behind when on a wave.  I always peak out the back when I am riding a wave to get an idea of what I have to look forward to when I kick out.  If the wave I am riding isn't worth surfing all the way inside, I will cut the ride short rather than content with a long, tiresome paddle back out.  Many times this way you won't even have to deal with a breaking wave or white water .  Additionally, I always try and carve out the back when I kick out so I already have some momentum moving back in the direction to the lineup.  If you windsurf, it's like a carving jibe out the back of the wave.


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devon_sup_surf

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2016, 01:29:33 AM »
Sup the creek- thanks so much for the photos really informative. I enjoyed your foot placement video (I have been a lurker on here for a while) so if you happen to make a video on getting out back please pop a link on here :)


From what everyone says it sounds like at least 50% of getting out is to assess the situation and pick the right location and moment to do it. I shall try and look out for rips although I never find them that easy to spot tbh. Maybe I'm in too small a swell to spot it most of the time?

I like your idea of using methods which are kind to the body. If it works well for the older SUPer it will be kind to the younger persons joints too.

One thing I'm not quite sure on is do you only employ the two methods you demonstrated in the pictures? Either surf stance over the top in small whitewater or diving underneath whilst pushing the board above?

I think part of my issue is a don't have a tail handle and my leash is too long- its a 10'5 board and my leash is 10'. I want to be able to ride the nose but I should probably run a 9' leash really. That and a tail handle and I can get back on the board more quickly.

Thanks a lot for the advice gentlemen- I need to get out in the mush and practice I think!

PonoBill

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2016, 07:36:55 AM »
Spotting a rip takes practice too, but they are always there, even in medium shorebreak. The water in a non-breaking wave doesn't move more than six inches or so, but breaking waves dump water and push a great amount ahead of them. That water gets back out somewhere, and when it does it digs a channel in the sand. Might be only a few inches deeper, but it guides water out and makes the wave action less. You can also have a shallow water rip where return water bulges over an obstruction, but those are rare (for example, the rip to surfer's left at Kanaha, which is much calmer, and knocks waves down but is actually a shallow water rock and coral bulge).

You simply look for a spot where the waves seem to hold up a little longer, or where the whitewater is "different". Not only will the waves be weaker, but the current carrying you out helps your speed.

The only thing I disagree with creek about is paddling on your knees. I don't find that to be effective in getting out. The water bashing into your body shoves you backwards. I either stand (preferred) or lay prone with the blade of my paddle under my chest and the shaft angled upward to the side of my head (don't lay on it with the reflex angle down). Of course, I would take a few boards to the face if I wasn't always ready to fend off, but I find it easier to get out standing, where I have the most control, power, and minimal push against my body--feet and legs vs. trunk. I reserve the bailing the board thing for well overhead waves where I'm just truly fucked, and then it's a last minute, no way I'm going to make this sort of thing. .
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Bulky

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #22 on: August 16, 2016, 08:18:00 AM »
Can't really add much to all the good input on technique but want to point out that boards make a difference.  Not sure what you're riding, but my first board (10'5 Widepoint) pushed a lot of water so going out I had to account for the board's tendency to want to go up and over everything.  My current Hammer and the JL Stryker I've used a bit are shaped differently and they kind of chisel their way through a break.  As I approach wave I can jam the tip in and it pops through.  My previous board wouldn't allow me to do that as much.

Only other tip I can give is for you to figure out the best way to hold as much ground as possible when you're in the water with waves breaking on you (and I know this because.... :-\).  Reality is we all get caught up in whitewater and, as you've noted, reeling in the board and gathering yourself costs valuable seconds and loses ground--especially if you keep getting hit and losing the board.  Lots of folks here use tail handles so you can read about that.  I probably would too if I was consistently out in big surf, but if I'm in the water and an ugly wave is coming my way.  I hold the board under my right arm about 2/3rds back  When the wave comes, I lift up the rail so the board is at a 45degree angle--if the wave is big I try to get the nose up higher.  I find that leaves only a small amount of surface area to get caught by the wave and slices through the best.  Always hold only by the rail and not the handle or leash if the wave wants to take the board away, let it.  Rather be stuck for a few more waves than lose a finger.
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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #23 on: August 16, 2016, 09:15:08 AM »
Advice from Gerry Lopez - Wait for the good ones and kick out early!

After getting outside at a gnarly beachbreak don't ride it to far! +1 caribsurf..

A rip can also be spotted by sand and foam heading for the horizon. Swimmers hate them, but that's the easiest way out.

Study the ocean, time the sets, number of waves per set et cetera.

Full on surf stance hard on the knees if big..

On smaller boards, am a fan of prone paddling as you can ALMOST duck dive. Hehe.

Great stuff from STC..
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SlatchJim

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #24 on: August 16, 2016, 09:32:41 AM »
Creek's guide is textbook instruction, and I really couldn't and wouldn't add much to it. He has great crayon penmanship on his photos too.

Bulky's point about the point (nose) of your board and it's shape has a lot to do with the ease of getting out and may be affecting your success.  Try a few different styles of boards to see what works best.  The easiest I've had it is on my current board (Wardog's Stoke). On moderate size waves punches through at the base of the foam and rides through in a slight upward trajectory, and with minimal paddle work, I can stay stable and and gain distance much more quickly.  I kinda feel like I'm cheating, but I don't feel all that bad about it.  ;)

My only contribution is that there are sometimes when you unfortunately get caught in the impact zone and the best way out is toward the shore (as long as that's a safe path).  Lying on the back half of your board, you can catch the whitewater, exit, re-enter at the rip channel and make it back out no worse for the wear.  There's no shame in playing the ocean's game. 

There can be days and locations where there's no easy way out.  I've been shut out more than once at a beach break with no usable channel and I've taken my licks.  I'd guess most of us have.  You can learn from every experience.   ???

devon_sup_surf

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #25 on: August 16, 2016, 03:06:50 PM »
I'm running a 10'5" laird. Wide nose and tapered tail. So I suppose she will want to ride over where she can.

Thanks so much guys- looking forward to giving this a go tomorrow evening :)

Tom

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #26 on: August 16, 2016, 04:43:17 PM »
Just  a  couple  of  points .  It  is  easier  to punch  through  white  water  with  a  pointy  thin nose  and  and  less  rocker  will  keep  the  nose  from  flying  up  into  your  face .  Another  thing  is  some  spots  have  channels  and  you  might  need  to  paddle  a ways  to  go  out  one , but  sometimes  its  your  best  bet .

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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #27 on: August 16, 2016, 05:02:35 PM »
If the wave is too big to go over, or I'm caught inside, I turn my back to the wave and point my board towards the beach, and do a sort-of reverse duck dive pushing the tail of my board down while holding on with a tail handle (on my big boards) or the lip of my tail pad (on my smaller boards).
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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #28 on: August 18, 2016, 11:38:53 AM »

The only thing I disagree with creek about is paddling on your knees. I don't find that to be effective in getting out.
???

Although I tend to paddle out on my knees more than I like, the one big thing I don't like about it is getting hit in the balls!  It hurts like a mofo!   
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Re: How do you get out in reasonably sized waves? Help please :)
« Reply #29 on: August 18, 2016, 12:54:54 PM »
I try to avoid knee paddling, but sometimes in our east cost short period waves, it's the most effective way to get out (after you get knocked down).  Getting that extra one or two strokes by staying on your knees can make the difference in getting over the next wave.


 


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