Author Topic: Cheap Electric fatbike  (Read 95719 times)

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #135 on: December 13, 2016, 06:10:09 PM »

Here is mine. Built for getting back to my van after a 7 mile down wind kite surf session. My plan is to lock bike around street sign post in highly visible area.

How are you doing this? Dropping your bike off first then driving up wind?  I like it!
I was going to try and do the same with two bikes and my son but need to set up a double seat, not sure I trust that weight.

Love the banana seat...so ugly no one will steal it :)

That's it. Locking bike up at finish. Riding back to van on the beach to avoid crazy drivers.

I'm leaving wife at finish line while I ride back to get van. She's not on board yet with going electric on her bike. My wife kitesurfs too.

PonoBill

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #136 on: December 13, 2016, 11:00:12 PM »
Just push the BUY Button.

The chain is interesting.  When not well lubricated it starts to skip.  Given all the load on the chain it freaks me out a bit. 


Is it the derailleur or the drive sprocket slipping? Lunacycle has some sprockets that are cut deeper to reduce skipping. YOu might also be able to tension your derailleur idler more.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

yugi

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #137 on: December 14, 2016, 02:27:18 AM »
Dunno how many miles you got on it but have a bike shop measure  the chain for wear. Maybe an electric bike wears them out quicker. A worn chain skips.

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #138 on: December 14, 2016, 11:59:31 AM »
Anyone know where the Bafang gets its guestimate of speed?

I'm guessing it's counting rear tire revolutions and guessing based on some tire diameter, but what tire size?


PonoBill

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #139 on: December 14, 2016, 04:14:51 PM »
You can set the tire size directly in the controller. the manual shows how--it's an approximate value, the best approach is to choose a size, ride the bike with a GPS speedometer to compare indicated speed against. If the speed reads low, choose a bigger tire. Here's the manual with instructions that work for most controllers. Yours might be different but you can probably download a specific controller on the bafeng site.

https://www.greenbikekit.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/9/c965a-manual-8fun-bbs01-bbs02-kit.jpg

To go deeper into changing how the controller works you need a programming cable--lunacycles is good. Also good to watch some of the youtube videos on changing the controller since you can screw things up pretty comprehensively. There are lots of recommendations for setup. BaFang sets up the controller to meet regulations, and then everyone ditches that and makes it more useful. Besides calibrating the speedo you certainly want to ditch the 20mph PAS limit, which you have undoubtedly felt in the lower settings. Feels like you suddenly ran into a wall of marshmallows.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

clay

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #140 on: December 14, 2016, 04:24:38 PM »
Cool thread.   This inspired me to look into chain drives, I was previously scared power driving the chain would be dangerous.

My electric bike was stolen out of my garage earlier this year, I wrote about it here:
https://clayisland.com/trusting-bike-thieves

I love my new replacement bike, a lot of the comments here resonate with me.

I learned 2 things with my old rigid frame electric:
1- even minor bumps are bone jarring and teeth rattling at 15+, some kind of shock absorption is crucial in front.
2- hub motors suck and chain drives are a huge upgrade, faster, lighter, and more effeciant.

My new bike is just plain fun, I ride it like it's a full suspension MTB and it's a blast on any terrain.   It's so fun I ride it more often and look for excuses to take it out.  There's a great farmers market 10 miles away and I enjoy the ride back even with a heavy fully loaded backpack.

Also makes DW shuttle runs twice as fun.

I drive a lot less, so it will eventually pay for itself.  I had my old bike for 2 years and it paid for itself in fuel savings.

Highly recommend   ;D
Aloha, I welcome and appreciate all responses of positivity and good feeling.

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOIE6FWr1SpWvbPJIIiEgog

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #141 on: December 14, 2016, 05:21:46 PM »
Thanks Bill. It's been a small battle to dig up some details.

Lunacycle ships package with no manuals or instructions.

It's all on the customer to search and watch videos. Ok, but it could be better organized on their site.

Mine was programmed for off road. I was hitting 25 mph on beach today when nobody was around.

I'm running 30T sprocket. I ran 46T my first day. The 30T is scary on power setting 1. It's a beast.

PonoBill

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #142 on: December 15, 2016, 09:33:14 AM »
I tried the 30T sprocket and it was too low geared for my use, went to a 40T which works well and was easier to position for reasonable chain alignment. Lunacyucle's website used to be easy to navigate--designed for the DYI folks. Now the focus is on complete units, probably because that's where the volume and profit are.  You have to dig for tools, information, and accessories. But it's there.
« Last Edit: December 15, 2016, 09:35:01 AM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

CLTSUP

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #143 on: December 15, 2016, 11:39:04 AM »
Cool thread.   This inspired me to look into chain drives, I was previously scared power driving the chain would be dangerous.

My electric bike was stolen out of my garage earlier this year, I wrote about it here:
https://clayisland.com/trusting-bike-thieves

I love my new replacement bike, a lot of the comments here resonate with me.

I learned 2 things with my old rigid frame electric:
1- even minor bumps are bone jarring and teeth rattling at 15+, some kind of shock absorption is crucial in front.
2- hub motors suck and chain drives are a huge upgrade, faster, lighter, and more effeciant.

My new bike is just plain fun, I ride it like it's a full suspension MTB and it's a blast on any terrain.   It's so fun I ride it more often and look for excuses to take it out.  There's a great farmers market 10 miles away and I enjoy the ride back even with a heavy fully loaded backpack.

Also makes DW shuttle runs twice as fun.

I drive a lot less, so it will eventually pay for itself.  I had my old bike for 2 years and it paid for itself in fuel savings.

Highly recommend   ;D

Clay whats the frame manufacturer and wheel size you have there? Searching  craigslist for a 29er with a good quality fork for my daily commuter. I like to have the ability to off road the beast a bit , but will be used mostly to get to the train station a couple miles away.

Thx
Uli Lopez-10'
Angulo Shaka-14'
Coreban Icon-10'

clay

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #144 on: December 17, 2016, 08:53:54 AM »
Cool thread.   This inspired me to look into chain drives, I was previously scared power driving the chain would be dangerous.

My electric bike was stolen out of my garage earlier this year, I wrote about it here:
https://clayisland.com/trusting-bike-thieves

I love my new replacement bike, a lot of the comments here resonate with me.

I learned 2 things with my old rigid frame electric:
1- even minor bumps are bone jarring and teeth rattling at 15+, some kind of shock absorption is crucial in front.
2- hub motors suck and chain drives are a huge upgrade, faster, lighter, and more effeciant.

My new bike is just plain fun, I ride it like it's a full suspension MTB and it's a blast on any terrain.   It's so fun I ride it more often and look for excuses to take it out.  There's a great farmers market 10 miles away and I enjoy the ride back even with a heavy fully loaded backpack.

Also makes DW shuttle runs twice as fun.

I drive a lot less, so it will eventually pay for itself.  I had my old bike for 2 years and it paid for itself in fuel savings.

Highly recommend   ;D

Clay whats the frame manufacturer and wheel size you have there? Searching  craigslist for a 29er with a good quality fork for my daily commuter. I like to have the ability to off road the beast a bit , but will be used mostly to get to the train station a couple miles away.

Thx

CLTSUP - It is a Specialized Fuse with 650bx3.0" (27.5+) tires.  I wanted an XXL frame and a slack headtube so that narrowed my choices really quick  :)

I had a flat last month and the tire went completely flat but it didn't come off the rim like happened to Beasho.  Tire was on there good and there was a trick to removing it.
Aloha, I welcome and appreciate all responses of positivity and good feeling.

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOIE6FWr1SpWvbPJIIiEgog

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #145 on: December 22, 2016, 01:04:23 PM »
My Mongose chain exploded today, and took out my derailler.

I was fighting a head wind returning from my kite downwinder. The beach was getting narrow, no good hard packed sand to reduce the strain. At power setting 4 and full throttle, I could only maintain 10 mph, so I got off the beach and hit the highway. Too late though. Chain exploded 1 minute after hitting pavement.

Lunacycles is recommending this chain. Amazon has it cheaper.


What do you guys think?

yugi

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #146 on: December 22, 2016, 01:17:37 PM »
What is your gears (number)? 8 speed?

KMC is OK
I prefer SRAM

More expensive chains are plated to avoid corrosion. Which may make a difference since you ride on the beach. Another strategy is to get a cheaper version and change more often.

Sheldon Brown [RIP] wrote up an amazing resource of bike info. Everything you need to know. Dunno if someone has kept it updated. Basically chains have become narrower to fit more gears (10 speed, 11, etc). SRAM bought SEDIS.
   http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

I ride with a chain tool. If I break a chain I just hook it back up minus the damaged links. Basically it works like this: if you carry the tool the chain doesn't break. If you don't, it does. Some strange law of luck.

« Last Edit: December 22, 2016, 01:19:28 PM by yugi »

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #147 on: December 22, 2016, 01:28:14 PM »
My gears are 7 speed. Amazon shows that chain fitting 7 or 8 speed.

I was running my 46T front sprocket. I had just taken off the 30T. 30T is going back on.

I'll start riding with chain tool. After my derailleur got destroyed, I'm tempted to go single speed.

PonoBill

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #148 on: December 22, 2016, 01:31:44 PM »
Don't go single speed. Either buy an Alfine or rohloff hub (spendy) of stick with your derailleur. Yugi is absolutely correct, whatever tools and spares you carry will never be needed.

I would point out that your 30T puts more tension on the chain, not less.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

yugi

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Re: Cheap Electric fatbike
« Reply #149 on: December 22, 2016, 01:40:46 PM »
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/component/chains

Yes, 8 speed is now the lowest and yes they are compatible w 7 (from memory)

Forgett the top end 890, way too expensive for your use. The 870 is nickle plated and probably worth the extra $5  as you’re on the beach. Else take a PC-830 and change it twice a year (at least yearly). Changing your chain early will save you a ton of money on not having to change the cogs or chainrings. A worn chain wears the cogs and chainring teeth like crazy.

I love singlespeed. The downside is limited top speed. The upside is big badass chain that’ll never break. I love the simplicity of singlespeed.

 


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