Board recommendation for a big fast wave?

[SUPalon]

Another one to consider, I been really loving my 9'6 Focus Classic in their new Core Flex construction.
A performance longboard that can take on big and fast and and slow and mushy mushy, no probs.
The Core flex construction feels smooth and snappy. very durable, best strength to weight ratio I've experienced, looks sharp too!

I'm 5'11, 180lbs, and the 9'6x29" feels perfect, but they also make it in 10'0x30. I'm in NorCal (Oakland) I surf anywhere between Bolinas to Santa Cruz, I'm happy to meet up if you wanted to try it out. Nothing like being able to try before you buy.

 

   

[jarvissup]

Wrybread,
I think your own, initial, conclusions were a step in the right direction, Jimmy Lewis makes the most durable boards for the wave you've described, and they ride a heavy wave very well. When I mean very well, I'm talking about a smooth ride. That construction is not as stiff as other production boards I have ridden, and on a fast, critical wave it really helps stay in control. My favorite ride for large, angry waves is the Stun Gun, we have the 8'2", the 8'7" and the 9'2" for paddling into waves that require high entry speed. I use to own a 9'5" Striker a few years back, I bought it thinking it would be fun to mess around on when the waves were waist high and down. However, it ended up being the most competent board in the quiver. Back then I had a Starby 8'2" Widepoint, and a 8'10" Widepoint, the Striker was superior.  That started me on the JL path. I own boards from several manufacturers, JP, Infinity, Imagine, and I love them all for their different attributes, but if you need a board to tame a large, fast wave....Jimmy Lewis is your man......in my humble opinion.

[Beasho]

This all depends on what your definition of 'Big' is. 

Big to me starts at 15 feet.  What this means is that my 10 foot board starts to feel small. 

Over 15 feet the waves are typically longer period and moving very fast.  There is nothing like getting into an 18+ foot wave early without a death defying drop.  The only way to do this is with a 'big' board, I prefer a 12 footer. 

I have been surfing countless times when people bring out there 9' 6" and cannot catch big waves.  Then they go deeper inside and eventually get pounded, or worse buckle their boards and don't return.

Durability???  This is my Jeff Clark board that has been broken in half once and buckled 4+ times and had the fin boxes blown out . . . 6 years later it is my go-to board in anything that is consistently from 9 to 15 feet.

[Beasho]

This is what it looks like to 'get in early' on waves over 15 feet.  12' board required.  The waves a simply TOO FAST to catch comfortably on a 10 foot board. 

You will paddle your a-s off, be completely winded and then find yourself air dropping off off Godzilla beak.

These larger boards are highly specialized good for very large, and also very small waves (like 2 to 4 feet).

At a place like Mavericks the minimum size SUP should be an 11' 6".  Unless you want to catch them in the bowl, like Garrett Macnamara, then you should be fine once again with a 9' 6" 

[JimK]

I totally agree with Beascho That for huge ways Custom is the ONLY way to go And it needs to be from a reputable shaper that has an intimate understanding of that wave.

but for general bigger waves it is hard to beat a production board for durability (your Naish held up pretty well till the end) and proven shapes Not to mention warranty and price.

OR you could split the difference and go with a Sunova semi custom and get the best of all worlds

Again just my thoughts

JimK

[surfcowboy]

If you want to pick up another 28" Nalu, PM me. I have a buddy who has one for sale pretty cheap.

[dietlin]

Stock boards not working:

[goodfornothin]

I have a 10'1 gun and 9'6gun, both Joe blairs.  Super durable.  Ive used the 9'6 on big days at Hanalei and avalanches.  I was fine on that size,,but the conditions made it easy.  I like the 10'1 for all the reasons beasho said.  For down the line surfing, in big stuff I like the quad set up in a 10ft board or above.  I personally like the extra width on Joes boards,,the thin rails make up for width.  Sup is so superior in big waves,,,good to see guys charging all over the globe now. 

Give Joe a look though, 1200 or so for a custom board,,and it surfs really well

[wrybread]

Thanks for all the awesome tips. I'm a little worried about going the custom route just since surf season is already half over, and with the usual delay or two I wouldn't have it until its too late. Maybe that'll be my Spring project.

And of course "big" waves are super relative, especially in the internet era when we all see what big Mavericks / Todos / Jaws looks like. I'm not talking about those waves, and Garrett McNamerra I ain't. But I love to go out right up until our break maxes out, meaning you can't paddle out anyway and its closing out. But I'm often the only taker or one of the very few when it gets big, and I love being out on those massive days when the Coast Guard is checking on people to see if they need a rescue. Monday was a good one, the buoys were 13 @ 20 and it seemed like every set was bigger than the last. Easily pushing TOH and sooooooo clean. One of those days you can think about when you can't sleep and you fall right to sleep.

And for whatever its worth, my 28" Nalu has never felt undergunned, but maybe I'm just used to it and the tradeoffs. It definitely feels like a dangerous amount of board when I flirt with the barrel, but I can't imagine a SUP not feeling like that. Would be great to try something more purpose built for the conditions.

And there's a nearby reef that absolutely jacks on big long period swells, and I'd love to go shoulder hop that on some big clean swell sometime...

And agreed, SUP frickin rules for big waves. Its like having super powers. Being able to see much better, and cover ground, and fight currents, and have all that extra speed on the takeoff, makes big waves soooo much easier. After running out of SUP boards on Monday I paddled out on my prone board and even just paddling 50 yards to adjust for position was a chore. And you have to do that *all the time* when its big. On a SUP that's nothing.

[goodfornothin]

You have a point about customs.  You will miss the entire season waiting for your board.  I personally would go find one of Clarks boards in a shop.  You won't be disappointed. 

I agree with all your points, we used to tow a lot.  I loved rolling into stuff early,,stalling and getting sucked into the middle of mother nature,,so.cool.  sup allows for the same set up, minus all the gas and gear.  I'll jump to my belly and paddle into a few,,seems to keep the grumbling off my back,,but it's such an inferior way in mind to surf big stuff.  Different strokes for different folks I guess. 

[surfafrica]

+1 to talking with Kirk (L41).  His turn-around time is pretty good and his boards can take a serious beating (put on carbon rails).  Send him your size, riding style and typical break and he'll set you up.  His bread and butter are the SIMS shapes, but he does a lot more.

[eastbound]

denton's cove! nice!

[clay]

And I have a loooong history of buying the wrong board so I'm trying to avoid that this time around.

Wow I sure can relate to this statement! 

For me buying off the shelf boards was a very expensive and unfruitful way to go about finding the right board.  That all changed when I went with a local shaper and stuck with him even when I received boards that didn't work for me.  Every once in a while I am tempted by the siren song of the immediate gratification of an off the shelf board and then I remember how much more I enjoy custom boards, even with a long wait.

I am wondering where your quiver and your surfing would be today if after breaking that first board you committed to a local shaper and custom boards built for you and that wave?

I echo the recommendations for shapers Clark or Kirk and Stretch had some SUP guns at the factory a couple months ago, I suspect any of the three will provide you with an amazing experience that will be worth the wait.  Maybe they will have a demo board to get you through the winter?

[wrybread]

Good advice Clay.

I've had a few custom boards (never a SUP) made over the years, but have never really developed a relationship with a shaper. And its always irritated me that SUPs are more like kayaks in the limited variety of make / models (big companies make them, and in any given lineup most people have the same brand boards) than old school shapers responding to regional preferences and cultures. So that does it! I'm heading down to Jeff Clark's new SUP shop tomorrow. I'm hoping I can buy off the rack to start, and then get a custom v2 board made once I know the changes I need. Thanks all for the nudges and great advice.

My one nagging fear at this point is that I'm hard on boards, especially out of the water, so getting a foam / glass board scares me a bit, compared to the relative indestructability of, say, a Jimmy Lewis.

But please feel free to comment if anyone thinks of any other suggestions or opinions on any of the above.

[dietlin]

The Shaper Surfer relationship is very important. 

http://thesterlingspencer.com