Author Topic: "Long is the new short"  (Read 10220 times)

Biggreen

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"Long is the new short"
« on: April 21, 2015, 07:18:59 PM »

There's a couple of spots I enjoy surfing when it's gets bigger. Only problem is the waves start off slopey and then wall up on the inside. That inside ride is great, but boy you get pounded and the onslaught is relentless on the fight back out, particularly on a sub 8' board. So I decided I'm gonna catch those slopey bastards way on the outside and cruise by the proners and my buddies eating a sandwich and smoking a cigarette (and hell, I don't even smoke) just because I can! And now that paddle back out won't be so terrible...I hope.

I guess Pono is right. Long IS the new short.

10'x 28"

SUPcheat

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2015, 08:18:54 PM »
I think after weighing the pros and cons of short/long,  I made the right decision getting the Prowave 9'3". I realize that I like a bit of longboard feel, though I don't really want to go longer than this. It is a really turn-ey board, too, and it is teaching me better compression, release and turning.

If I ever realize this board's potential, I will be well into intermediate skill territory.

I see Southwesterly(Steve) doing some pretty aggressive cutbacks on five/six footers with his 9'6" Hammer, so it can be done with longer boards.

I am getting mixed feelings about ever going way short just for the macho of it.
2013 Fanatic Prowave LTD 9'3"x30.5x@134L
Sunova Speeed 8'10"x29.12@131L
Sunova Flow 8'7"x30.25"@121L
Carbon 9.3x32@163L Hammer
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surfcowboy

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2015, 09:03:34 PM »
I love that board. Color, shape, all of it. Great work.

TallDude

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2015, 10:16:03 PM »
It's swallow performer .... hybrid ??? 28" gets you rail to rail.  Nice job.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

PonoBill

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2015, 11:43:38 PM »
Welcome to the revolution.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

supuk

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2015, 12:14:23 AM »
good job, did you do the colour in the layup or a a resin tint after? the longer boards can be just as fun as the shorter ones. I've just drawn up a replacement 9'6 for myself although wondering if i can make something that i can prone surf as well as sup.

balance_fit

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2015, 07:28:48 AM »
A beauty, indeed.That swallow tail looks so interesting.   

Seems that the longer hulls never die. Longboard sup threads keep thriving and alive.

I went back full circle. Tried everything up to 8' long with volume down to 100 L. Came back to a 10' on 140 L, with a nice outline for everything from turns on the rail up to nose rides.

Gimme the glide.
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stoneaxe

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2015, 07:55:43 AM »
Yup....I'll still bring my 9' and 8'4" out when the conditions are right but getting the longer rides and still having performance is making the Foote my go to.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

The Kernel

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2015, 10:26:46 AM »
I'm 5'9" 175lbs and am a reasonably competent SUP surfer with just under 3 years surf SUP experience.  Was a decent, basic prone surfer for a little while before that.

In Autumn 2014 I went longer in the quiver by acquiring 9'2" AND 10'2" T Patterson/Riviera Rising Suns (performance shapes) to deal with smaller days in general and also specifically the mushier waves at places like Dogpatch.  Just saw too many people missing too many waves as they went shorter and shorter on their boards and felt I was falling into the same trap.

Additionally, on big days, I observed lots of people scrambling on the inside on short boards, fighting for balance while trying to punch out before the next monster set hit them.  They often failed and just kept eating it again and again.  When I started taking my 9'2" out on bigger days, I found that with the glide and extra float, I was getting out through the mess faster and avoided beatings that others would take.  Less time in the rinse cycle equalled 3-5x more waves than my short board amigos.  With the shape of the board, it's still  "turns" enough for my skill level.

So while I do have an 8'0 and 8'2" in the inventory, I only use them when the conditions are right (smooth water and punchier waves 3'-6' high).  Small, mushy or overhead=longer board for me.   

Of all five boards I have, the 9'2" T Patterson (128L) is by far the most versatile and would be the board to keep if I could only have one.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 10:28:42 AM by The Kernel »
Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
"This is the kernel of the argument."

Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'0 L41 Simsup
9'2" T. Patterson Rising Sun
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10' Riviera Machete

Biggreen

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2015, 01:32:36 PM »

Additionally, on big days, I observed lots of people scrambling on the inside on short boards, fighting for balance while trying to punch out before the next monster set hit them.  They often failed and just kept eating it again and again.  When I started taking my 9'2" out on bigger days, I found that with the glide and extra float, I was getting out through the mess faster and avoided beatings that others would take.  Less time in the rinse cycle equalled 3-5x more waves than my short board amigos.  With the shape of the board, it's still  "turns" enough for my skill level.

Last time it got bigger at one of these spots I mentioned I forced myself to grow a pair and surf the inside. Had some great rides.  But in a 2 hour session I probably spent 40 minutes getting the crap beat out of me and clawing my way back out. Time for length.

Haha! Hey TD, even my friends are going, "Why the swallow tail?"  No reason in design at all. I just like the look of them and hadn't done one yet, so I thought "what the hell". Just wish I'd done a better job. It's a little wonky, but hey, that's my trademark.

Charlie, I did the resin in the layup. I'd like to get much better using tints. Don't see myself painting a blank any time soon, but I might try both what you mentioned or a foam stain at some point.

Cheat, I think this longer board will make me surf more and ride less on a wave, if that makes any sense.  And you're right. I've been on this campaign to see how short and narrow I can go, much to the chagrin of my shoulder, which gets a workout from all the sculling and bracing.

southwesterly

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2015, 08:41:08 PM »
 I am so behind the curve that I didn't know a 9'5" was a long board.

PonoBill

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2015, 08:56:14 PM »
I was out all day in mushy south side waist to overhead sets today on my 10'4". What a machine. When I was paddling in to get lunch, a Hawaiian guy paddled up to me and said "I been watchin' you, you never fall. You never sit down. You catchin' all those waves and you're never in the water."

I said "I can't get back up again." and we both laughed, but I realized I had caught probably fifty waves in the previous two hours, and hadn't fallen in the water. He should have seen me a few hours earlier--he wouldn't have been so impressed. I had to get my sea legs back. But it's a big deal to have a board you can get easily into a mediocre wave, surf it well, turn out and paddle back, punching through the whitewater with no problems, time and again. And when a bigger set comes it's just as capable. Great board for me.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

southwesterly

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2015, 09:25:07 PM »
to have a board you can get easily into a mediocre wave, surf it well, turn out and paddle back, punching through the whitewater with no problems, time and again. And when a bigger set comes it's just as capable.


That's how I feel about the 9'5" Hammer. So easy to paddle around on, but it can surf any wave that I'm out in.

standuped

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2015, 10:26:33 PM »
Cool board.
Florida gear.. Bic 12'x31"~207L.. JP Fusion 10'8"x34"~190L..Angulo custom 9'6"x33"~160L.. SIC Fish 9'5"x29.6"~145L..Epic gear elite paddle~7"x75"..Oregon gear..JP Fusion#2..Foote Triton 10'4"x34"~174L.. Surftec Generator 10'6"x32.3"~167L..Kialoa Pipes 6 3/8"x75"...Me 6'1" 220 lbs circa 1959

magentawave

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Re: "Long is the new short"
« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2015, 11:18:36 PM »
So cool! I bet that thing just glides! What's it like to paddle?
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