New Tail Handle

[supsurf-tw]

Keep 'em commin'.........................

[headmount]

I don't like flexible loops.
Anyone remember Strand Lepers missing digit?

the other day I grabbed my leash rail guard and the board pinched my middle finger between the guard and board..
Black and Blue...

I suggest having the Handle a ways away from the board so that if the board gets sideways or flipped you still have
some margin for safety.

This looks promising..at least you can release easily and not get caught.

I think you can put it in line behind the rail saver a ways...there is a hole in the middle.

Lawn Mower, Out Board Pull Starter Handle around a buck..

Best yet

[Wetstuff]

The T-handle is creative and safer ..as would a tennis ball on a short lanyard, but ..two fingers on either side of that T-handle gripping a smooth, wet surface with fairly minimal contact area is asking for failure. (try a cranky mower with a wet handle..)

And you don't want a rockered log flipping over on you with a 6sec set bearing down on you...   I find a wide, stiff handle that I can fully grip and force the tail of the board into a reverse duck-dive to work best when I am caught in my local Chit soup.  It's even helpful when it's time to come in and they're breaking on the beach.

Sam's handle.   ..the original idea (wrong side up) 



Jim

[SUPJorge]

The pros and cons of the different designs have been developed fully in previous threads. Having read them all and having experimented with different alternatives, this is what I've come up with:

http://www.dakine.com/search?keyword=Raptor%20Heelstrap
and
http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=236&idcategory=93

The one additional thing I would add is that, considering the cost of the equipment we play with and the importance of keeping all your fingers, this is not a place I would make a decision based on trying to save a few bucks.

[PonoBill]

I generally use the raptor heelstrap but I'm experimenting with a new foam handle that eliminates the trapped finger issue entirely, doesn't drag in the water, and still lets you do a pushup on the board to sink the tail just before you get worked. So far it's working well. More on that later when I get some testing time.

[mdsurf]

I saw a handle like the T handle above that was integrated into the leash about a foot from the leash plug.  Guy using it found it quick and easy.  Cost about $20 retail at the surf shop I saw them at.  Still did not buy one but they looked great.

[southwesterly]

I've used this one for the last six months. It has a lot of stretch to it but my board never flies back at me. If conditions got heavy it would probably break, which would be a good thing.

I have to admit that the chances of finding myself in real heavy conditions on a stand up are slim to none and the last thing on my mind would grabbing my tail handle.

[The Kernel]

Cutting to the "kernel" of the discussion:

The handle issue has been kicked around many, many times here as pointed out by an earlier poster.  The pros and cons of the various designs are fairly well understood and I myself have tail handles on all my boards as a result of those extensive postings.

The design shown at the beginning of this post has been done before and is dangerous.  Stick with what PonoBill and Sam P'ae have already discovered.  The production made surface mount handle works fine also; just make sure the handle slack between the stick on mounts is minimized or eliminated.

Or ignore that advice and just get an insurance rider for finger severance and wrist damage.

[pdxmike]

Looks like a lot of these are cheap plastic that could chip.  I'd think aluminum would be the way to go.

[Bean]

Looks like a lot of these are cheap plastic that could chip.  I'd think aluminum would be the way to go.

Come clean PDX, is ilovesup your alter ego?

[southwesterly]

Why go aluminum when you've got stainless steel?

[supsurf-tw]

I think the point is that tail handles are a valid feature for most people. Most people don't have dual plugs to attach to so something that works with a single plug\leash combo can be worked with. If it's getting heavy out there you will not be holding on so we're talking about 4 feet of whitewater hitting you. more than that and it's bail time. This is where a shorter leash really helps

[pdxmike]

Looks like a lot of these are cheap plastic that could chip.  I'd think aluminum would be the way to go.

Come clean PDX, is ilovesup your alter ego?

Nope, we just work at the same aluminum factory in Singapore.

[eastbound]

ya--much as when things get messy I like to be far from my board, i use a short leash. the ability to kick/snap the board back for quick climb on and exit is key.

and at least the chance your board hits someone else is lessened.

with a long leash it can take a while to retrieve board--when you aint got much time til the next reworkage

I use the surfco ez plug flat handle--works fine--seems little risk of hand injury--like some one said earlier, if it's big enough to flip to board around and lock up the hand, im diving deep until that set passes-->5ft i bail deep

[PonoBill]

The first time you grab a good tail handle in the proper way (doing a one-handed push up on the board) with an double overhead wave dropping on your head is when you become a convert to handles. Even if the board gets pulled out of your hand it doesn't go far--no leash ride. And it's right there so you can do what you gotta do instead of retrieving your gear. Most times it won't pull away from you and you'll ride out what would have been some nasty moments in the impact zone wondering how you got away without a beating. It's not just for a little whitewater.

They don't work as well for waves that pitch out and break top to bottom. For those you need an impact vest, a mongo leash and a guardian angel. But for everyday mushburgers they're fine up to DOH.