Input on design of 11'-6" SUP

[andygere]

I am planning to build a hollow wood SUP, using the Grain Surfboards building method.  I live and surf in Santa Cruz, CA and would use the board primarily for surfing small point break waves, and for shorter fitness runs or break to break surf tours.  Most common wave size would be 1-4 feet, generally with good shape and quality. I'm an SUP novice, but longtime surfer, 5'7" 173, decent but not great fitness. I most frequently surf a 9'-0" performance oriented longboard, but also ride a 10'-0" nose rider and ocaisionally break out the 7'-8" hybrid for bigger days.

Another builder has generously shared his design, and I would love to hear comments from the experienced builders/riders on the suitability of this board for my purposes.  Specs of the board are here:
http://www.paulidesign.com/images/board/sapsup.pdf

[andygere]

To get info on the Grain Surfboards construction method, go to: http://www.grainsurfboards.com/  Note that the design summary I posted was used to build an SUP using this method, however the builder is local to the Great Lakes, and his and my uses will be quite different.

[stoneaxe]

Grain makes some beautiful boards. I was planning on possibly getting one of their SUP kits before my brother blew me away by giving me his brand new Starboard. I would still love to build a hollow wood board someday though. I hope you post your progress. I'd be real interested to see it.

I know nothing of performance (complete newb). One thing I think I'd incorporate is a handhole for ease of carrying. I'm glad the Starboard has one and I'm 6'4" 250. I can just get my arm around the edge for a one hand carry but the handhole makes it comfortable. I'd think it would be even more important in an all wood board. Of course you could just rig carry straps.

You need to build yourself a paddle to go with it http://www.ponohouse.com/ponoblog/?p=265 . Just don't build it backwards.

[shapeshifter]

the only difference between the great lake's and the ocean's waves is that ours are... faster and maybe just a little colder and softer. heheheh!

anyway, i was supposed to hook up with scott and crew at sheboygan over the weekend but wound up preparing my instructors for teaching these vacuum lamination classes at a couple of high schools here instead. just a quick observation tells me that the crown on the top of the deck (dome, whatever) could use some flattening out. or maybe it's just me?

[andygere]

Shapeshifter,
I didn't mean to imply that Great Lakes waves aren't good.  The fellow that shared the board plan with me indicated that he doesn't have much surfing experience, and I figured there's also a significant difference in buoyancy between the fresh and the salt. 

-Andy

[shapeshifter]

...and i thought i was making a funny about our thick square over head waves.

not to worry... i totally understand the differences between fresh and salty.

[surfcrofts]

just my perspevtive cause my current ride is an 11,6 infinity stock shape--- what i mean by that is while it is not a didtance/racer it is also NOT a high performance surf model !!! it is what i consider right in the middle which is why i bought it!!! for break to break paddleing it is swell and for surfing small to shoulder/headhigh i feel confident(as long as it's not 5-second shore pound)!!! for more porformance orientation difinitely look to a 10-6 or under!! in foam/epoxy or liteweight construction!!!!! the board Your talking about building should do everything fine except high performance surfing--- the extra weight You'll have will give a smooth ride and glide but will slow down the agility factor!!! i've already found certain limitations with my board in regards to agility but all of it's other attributes make me a "happy camper"!!! Please understand in no way am i trying to be negative cause i really like the idea of Wood boards-- i pray it turns out Bittchen!!!!! go for it!!!!!  best regards always-- bob c.   

[andygere]

Bob,
Thanks for the input on this board design.  Since it's my first SUP, I know that I'll have to give up some performance surfing to get the stability and glide that I want, and that's fine with me.  I'm curious about the rocker dimensions on your Infinity, and how they compare to this design.  I have ridden some Infinity longboards, and I like Steve's shapes so his rocker design is of interest to me.  The same goes for the rails, what do they look like on your Infinity 11-6? 

[Allan Cheateaux]

Hows this thing coming along?

[andygere]

I've refined the design quite a bit, based on a lot of reading, and a bit of paddling on some demo boards.  Here's what I've got:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/Stand%20Up%20Paddle/Waveyarderinfo.jpg

I'd love some input, since I now have most of the materials and I'm ready to start cutting parts.  I am especially interested in comments on the rails, volume and rocker.  I tried to flatten the deck out a bit, while still maintaining volume in the rails without making them too blocky.  What say the SUP design experts here?

Since the dimensions are a bit hard to read from the image, I'll put them here: 
Nose rocker= 5-13/16"; 1 foot back 3-5/16"  Tail Rocker=3-3/4"; 1 foot forward 2-5/16"
Length=11'-6"; width 28-11/16"; thickness 4-9/16"; volume=173.8 liters

[Allan Cheateaux]

The center slice looks pretty boxy to me. I would delete all slices exept the center, reform to a little more fluid shape, then add you nose and tail slices to maintain a better roll down the rail... Other than that, it looks good for an all arounder. I dont think you need the width of a "nose rider" nose. You can pull it in a bit and it will still nose ride, but will paddle a bit better IMO.




http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=333603;search_string=hollow%20SUP;guest=14976491#333603
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=334069;search_string=hollow%20SUP;guest=14976491#334069


Heres some shots to keep you stoked

[andygere]

Allan, thanks for the input.  When you say boxy, do you mean too thick overall, rails are too square, or something else?  This is my first stab at board design, so I've done a lot of reading, but I'm still feeling my way along.  What do you think about an ideal width for the nose, that will paddle well but still be a good nose rider?  Also, would it help if I posted a pdf document that showed all of the rib slices?

Finally, for simplicity, I've made the bottom flat, no concave in the nose, nor V in the tail.  Does this sound OK?  My thought is to build the first one with a stable, basic bottom, and then refine things on future boards.

[andygere]

Taking Allan's suggestions, I've modified the board slightly.  The rails are less boxy, more like 50-50 for the forward 2/3 of the board, and I've made it just a tad thinner.  Volume is down to 170 liters.  I've also pulled the nose in just a bit. Does this look better?  Anybody else have some input?

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0H8dR4grMVT10HxhLH2W2LvuDjw2ai2WX2EAtl2nzSzmOWmG1Gjd6hdXvp6zvkm22diIw-L5tqDuvLJ1HnNIng/Waveyarder%204.5%20mod1.pdf

[Allan Cheateaux]

Looks great. Pull the trigger and cut some wood!!!

[andygere]

The link went bad, so I've found a better host.  Try this: