Author Topic: big surf coming to Hawaii  (Read 16411 times)

LaPerouseBay

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big surf coming to Hawaii
« on: January 16, 2014, 08:25:53 PM »
The first pic is tomorrow, 40+ feet Oahu outer reefs. 

Second pic is next Wednesday.  It's unusual to see purple that close to the islands. 



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PonoBill

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2014, 08:34:44 PM »
16-22 ft tomorrow at Ho'okipa, and long period, so it will stack like crazy in the focal spots. Peahi should be interesting tomorrow.
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southwesterly

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2014, 09:04:14 PM »
 144 hours until Code Periwinkle!

surfinJ

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2014, 11:43:22 PM »
Here it comes.  Post up the pics please.

paidmydues

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2014, 08:47:37 AM »
surfed Hookipa almost 4 hours Thursday am, there was a couple 10 footers hawaiian by the time I came back to the beach after noon.
hawawa ka he'e nalu,haki ka papa

PonoBill

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2014, 09:38:21 AM »
Big but not huge so far. I'm headed to Kanaha, it's not beyond what lowers can hold--yet.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

OUTSIDEWAVE

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2014, 10:12:50 AM »
I guess it supposed to hit everywhere .  Mavericks included.
SEA BIRDS THEY DO TOUCH AND GO AS THE WORLD JUST TANGOES BY.... SO I SADDLE UP MY SEAHORSE WITH MY FLYROD IN MY HAND.... 10'3 King custom  10'6"  c4 da beachboy

ChefBoyRD

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2014, 11:10:27 AM »
Looking forward to some wrap, hopefully

PMD , Stopped by with my son last week after a upper west side session for some grinds , They made some changes I see heh?


PonoBill

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2014, 09:06:02 PM »
Decided against Kanaha this morning--almost paddled out, but it looked like a lot of pain for little gain. Did the Harbor instead with the L41 (8'6" X 31" with a big fat guy on it)  Max fun. Then went to the west side looking for wrap. Nada, but I did wrap my lips around a chicken pot pie and a apple hand pie at Leoda's. so that was good. Paddled with Covesurfer at Puamana, a little surfing there, then down to hole in the wall--scared the crap out of Gregg guiding him through the reef, then did Lahina breakwall--fun, then back to Pua, Bumped into Armadillo at Hole in the wall on the way back. I told Greg "that's gotta be a local, he's lining up at the only place you can do that without skin grafts."

Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

covesurfer

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2014, 11:04:43 PM »
Ended up adventuring with PB today which was pretty much excellent. Started the day with a recon of lowers - what I observed were mostly average waves but it looked pretty sloppy - and then a set would come - those looked big, more than DOH - and you would see boards flying, a few guys riding and then a huge dumping closeout - those that didn't straighten out and shoot out front, and even some that did, would end up in the wash. If I paddled out, the only thing I'd catch would be reforms and smaller stuff that might break clean. And I'd likely get creamed a few times for good measure. Didn't look inviting.

The harbor sounded better to me and I was shocked when PB said he'd go check it out. We parked at the canoe hale and rode out front, then paddled over to the west jetty and caught a few there. Somebody over there told PB it was head high at guard rails. Hmmm. Sounded suspicious but as Bill pointed out, there was a potential lunch stop at Leodas which would make it worth it no matter. Maybe it would be wrapping or something would be sneaking through.

Note to self: Don't eat a reuben sandwich and then go on an adventure paddle with Bill unless you drink lots of water first. We set off from Puamana, caught a few small waves there - maybe waist highs - then paddled north. Hit another small break on the way up to Lahaina breakwall. Bill scared the shit out of me, leading us across a reef that was fin deep. It is one of the few times I can remember where I was freaked enough to go on my knees in pretty smooth water. In spite of the sketch factor, I loved every minute of this paddle. We ended up paddling inside, right along the beach, threading between coral and rock outcroppings.

At the breakwall, we paddled back outside to a really nice wave - not very big - best ones were probably chest high - but fun to work into it.

On the paddle back down to Puamana, we bumped into Armadillo and another guy at hole in the wall. He was surfing in over the reef where I'd bumped my fin. He joked about it making you way better because you couldn't fall without a big penalty. The waist high bumps were tempting to paddle into but I was too sketched to try it. PB looked like he was willing and I saw him take a few strokes into some of the waves but then kind of coast. I don't think he wanted to go over that reef either.

There was big surf on the north side, and when I was coming home, it looked like it was lighting up even more than in the morning. But it was a pretty small wave day for us even though it was an awesome adventure. And the three bottles of water I drank when I got to my car never tasted so good.

« Last Edit: January 17, 2014, 11:07:39 PM by covesurfer »

headmount

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2014, 08:19:06 AM »
C-Sweeper and I went out yesterday.  Wasn't as clean as day before but bigger.  Only made one wave all the way, the rest were all straighten outs.  Also got pitched from the lip when I tried to get fancy off the lip.  As I disconnected from the board it was following me in the air.  Turned my head and arms towards the board for protection but took the full impact of the landing on the side of my head, specifically my ear.  No eardrum damage and balance was good enough to stay out for awhile longer but the side of my head grew progressively hotter like Mike Tyson had gone to town on my ear.  So I went home and iced it.

Feeling good today and hoping surf will be cleaner.  Dark pre dawn but I can still hear size.

C-Sweeper couldn't have picked a better time to visit Maui.  I was doubtful about his use of his 8' but he kills it on that board.  Cruises around in a low gear but when it comes time to sprint into a wave he's a top fuel dragster.

PonoBill

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2014, 08:44:42 AM »
Hole in the wall actually does have a hole, but you have to do it just right. I would have gone, I didn't get a usable wave. It has to be the right size too. It's a VERY tricky spot, but great fun when the swell is big enough and there is NEVER a crowd.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

covesurfer

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2014, 09:32:21 AM »
Hole in the wall actually does have a hole, but you have to do it just right. I would have gone, I didn't get a usable wave. It has to be the right size too. It's a VERY tricky spot, but great fun when the swell is big enough and there is NEVER a crowd.

.....because skin takes a long time to grow back. ;D

paidmydues

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2014, 09:53:24 AM »
@ Chef,yeah,I was laid off (again) dec 29,they just want to sell  the business,2bad,it was a great gig,buying some ready made junk,on the + side,plenty of ocean time for me,paddling & surfing.
hawawa ka he'e nalu,haki ka papa

paidmydues

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Re: big surf coming to Hawaii
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2014, 09:58:28 AM »
yeah PB,it's Lahaina,not Lahina.Where is hole in the wall? Do you mean hole in the HEAD? The rocky point @ Honokeana?
hawawa ka he'e nalu,haki ka papa

 


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