Author Topic: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell  (Read 24446 times)

headmount

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #30 on: February 07, 2014, 06:38:42 PM »
Not to belittle anybody getting caught inside... but THIS is getting caught inside.
I'd die for sure.

I will chime in once again: 1) Wear Float   2) Wear a Waist Leash

Note how identical these two waves look.  Same day, both within an hour of each other.  Would you rather be:

1) Mark Healey?  Or
2) Haley?  

Yellow or Blue, which would you chose?

The green shirted guy in the first pic sitting in front of the pitching lip is what I would choose over the (I guess it's blue) guy falling ass over tea kettle down the face in the bottom pic.  Green guy can dive under and will have a prayer of not getting creamed too bad.  Guy in bottom shot doesn't have a prayer.  His forward momentum will take him for a longer tumble.  Plus he is skipping and not getting as much opportunity to get a solid tank of air before his long submersion.  If the top pic guy is smart, he'll be packing air instead of worrying about what a fix he's in.  In that same pic, how did the owners of  the the two boards incased in the lip fare?  My bet is that those two boards broke.  Their owners probably got hammered as well.  My experience is that the backside of a wave that size splits opens up like a chasm with an elevator straight to the basement.  Interesting question Beasho.

headmount

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #31 on: February 07, 2014, 06:51:27 PM »
Just watched the Healey vid.  I think he did alright considering .. except for the next one clobbering him.  The second one was probably worse.

Beasho

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #32 on: February 07, 2014, 07:22:10 PM »
I covered the second crash extensively.  Watch Haley cartwheel from 3 different angles w/full video.  Forward to 0:40 if you just want the carnage.  You can also judge hit 'rattle factor' as I talk to Haley right after the fall.  Almost unaffected.


headmount

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #33 on: February 07, 2014, 08:35:37 PM »
And how was Healey after his ordeal?

Beasho

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #34 on: February 07, 2014, 09:52:42 PM »
And how was Healey after his ordeal?

Knocked out of the first round, didn't advance.

headmount

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #35 on: February 08, 2014, 12:11:52 AM »
And how was Healey after his ordeal?

Knocked out of the first round, didn't advance.

In the contest right?  But I'm referring to your question about which beating would you choose between Healy and Haley.  I thought Haley was the resurrection of Bill Haley and the Comets and I choose Healy's predicament, tho it sounds like Haley lucked out pretty well from the vid.  Diving under or skipping down the face, that is the question.  My my what a choice.

surfinJ

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #36 on: February 08, 2014, 01:31:03 AM »
Healy will have the chance to get some air in and then try to sink under the
first of the impact.
Haley is in a terrible situation.  First, skipping along the surface, he can't
penatrate and escape the grip of the wave.  Plus what follows is the most
dangerous kind of wipeout, overthefalls with the lip into a deep submersion
or bottom contact.
Although I've only used them a few times, the combination of a 15' waist
leash and float shirt under the wetsuit is a new world.  To the extent
possible, I feel some control during the bad moments.
The air bag sounds mint if it can be deployed, but for the unsupported
amatuer, kind of ends the session.

Beasho

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #37 on: February 08, 2014, 05:48:13 AM »
. . . the combination of a 15' waist leash and float shirt under the wetsuit is a new world. . .

I have a BROTHER!

surfinJ

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #38 on: February 08, 2014, 06:22:30 AM »
    :D an uddah muddah.

Cardiff Sweeper

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Re: Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #39 on: February 08, 2014, 03:40:23 PM »
This whole topic is fascinating. I could've surfed some actual "big" Hawaiian stuff on my trip, but I just don't have experience in anything beyond legit-DOH.
A float vest sounds like a real confidence booster.


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PonoBill

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #40 on: February 08, 2014, 04:11:52 PM »
I ordered an O'Neill Gooru. Doesn't even need to be more than DOH, the outer reef stuff feels an order of magnitude nastier than Kanaha for the same size. I thought I was going to get ripped in half the other night at Outer Tavares -- CS, that's basically the same place we surfed the evening we went out of the reef slit at Kuau. When the waves get much above 15 feet there, they really do a number on you. Pitching out and thumping instead of crumbling like they do at Kanaha. I got sucked over the falls and dragged across the reef. Wasn't fun.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Beasho

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #41 on: February 10, 2014, 03:30:44 PM »
I ordered an O'Neill Gooru. Doesn't even need to be more than DOH . . .

Pono - Please report back your experience with the Gooru.  I consider it as much a part of my gear as a leash.  Last summer it was only 2 feet so I didn't wear it.  I fell in and just sat there on the bottom waiting to come up.  I never did.  I had forgotten that you actually have to swim when you fall.  

With a wetsuit on the vest will float a person in a vertical position to where the waterline is 2 inches below their shoulder blade.  In other words your entire Head ++.  First time you fall on a wave that is >8+ feet you should notice a big difference in recovery time. 

sup_surf_giant

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #42 on: February 10, 2014, 03:54:50 PM »
I ordered an O'Neill Gooru. Doesn't even need to be more than DOH . . .

Pono - Please report back your experience with the Gooru.  I consider it as much a part of my gear as a leash.  Last summer it was only 2 feet so I didn't wear it.  I fell in and just sat there on the bottom waiting to come up.  I never did.  I had forgotten that you actually have to swim when you fall.  

With a wetsuit on the vest will float a person in a vertical position to where the waterline is 2 inches below their shoulder blade.  In other words your entire Head ++.  First time you fall on a wave that is >8+ feet you should notice a big difference in recovery time. 

I wear an XXL full suit when I need one. It fits "snug" in the shoulders already. with a vest under, could I still paddle I wonder? Do you need to jump a size?
Taller than most, shorter than others.

Beasho

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #43 on: February 13, 2014, 03:39:02 PM »
I am 5' 8" ~ 175 and since I always wear the vest I now buy XLS suites.  These are Extra Large Short, in other words one or two sizes up.

They fit well enough and the vest tends to keep you warm so when you finally fall in, even when its cold, it is welcomed relief.

I used to wear a pretty snug XCel 5/4/3 wetsuit with the vest.  It was tough to get all wrapped up but once the system got wet it was stretchy enough to paddle well.  That combination did get very warm.

paidmydues

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Re: Caught inside, Hawaiian, and living to tell
« Reply #44 on: February 21, 2014, 09:33:10 AM »
when caught inside,please don't paddle in front of the person that has caught that wave to try to escape it,pay the price and let that person make the wave.It can get very frustrating for the person trying to make the wave having to go around you,and not able to stay in the pocket.Mahalo
hawawa ka he'e nalu,haki ka papa

 


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