Author Topic: The Cardiff Sessions  (Read 27210 times)

Cardiff Sweeper

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The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #75 on: February 07, 2018, 09:04:05 AM »
New stick

7’5” x 25” @ 84L
Weighs 9.2 lbs









1/18/18
SB 8’0” x 28”



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
« Last Edit: February 07, 2018, 09:07:09 AM by Cardiff Sweeper »

surfafrica

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #76 on: February 07, 2018, 11:13:43 AM »
I was out at Cardiff on Thu, Jan 25 on my new 7'4 x 26, 81 L Nano (I'm only 145 lbs). I might have been out there with some of you regulars.  Super fun and had a good vibe on the peak where all the stand ups were.  Got some really fun rides when the clean ground swell made it through without the wind swell messing it up (I asked one of the guys out if it was choppier than usual...."oh ya, big time").  Also got to watch and talk with two paraplegic guys on kayaks.  They were ripping...was awesome to see....inspiring.

Went back for a quick session on the Saturday and had a hard time getting waves...lots of guys on super long longboards grabbing stuff on the outside. I was under-foamed for sure!
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supthecreek

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #77 on: February 07, 2018, 04:24:19 PM »
Getting serious there Craig.....
Sheesh, your board looks like my old shortboards!

Pics are awesome, thanks for posting them :)


SA, sounds like you're having a great trip!

surfafrica

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #78 on: February 07, 2018, 04:29:56 PM »
SA, sounds like you're having a great trip!

The trip was super fun.  It was a quick one though--just 2 1/2 days.  We picked up my friend's board from Kronos and then surfed Cardiff, Sano and a few breaks in between.  It was nice to see the sun again....it's been a long dark wet winter up here so far.

Looking forward to more adventures in 2018.
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Kronos Nano: 7'4 x 26, 81 L https://goo.gl/kAM8W6

Cardiff Sweeper

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #79 on: March 06, 2019, 05:43:03 PM »
Nice wave and picture, but as a photographer yourself don't you think the guy or gal who snapped that pic would appreciate a little green for his or her effort? $9. in Kathy's pocket ;D (not sure if she took the shot)

Actually, I'm not sure the proceeds even make it back to the poster?

Good point.

However, Surfline does not provide contact links for the photographers who post there.  Nor can you message them.

I've tried to find this one gentleman who took a bunch of photos of me, but only posted one on surfline.
Yeah, no luck in contacting him, as I'd gladly pay for them.


TallDude

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #80 on: March 06, 2019, 11:54:14 PM »
Nice wave and picture, but as a photographer yourself don't you think the guy or gal who snapped that pic would appreciate a little green for his or her effort? $9. in Kathy's pocket ;D (not sure if she took the shot)

Actually, I'm not sure the proceeds even make it back to the poster?

Good point.

However, Surfline does not provide contact links for the photographers who post there.  Nor can you message them.

I've tried to find this one gentleman who took a bunch of photos of me, but only posted one on surfline.
Yeah, no luck in contacting him, as I'd gladly pay for them.
There's a photographer Paulie who surfs at SanO now and then. He'll take photos or shoot video of anyone that wants some for around $50 to $100. He'll put them on your own thumb drive or you can buy one off of him. I pay him cash, but I think he has a square to run credit cards? Most of my surf pictures over the past 5 or 6 years were shot by him. He said he shoot motocross races too.

PonoBill

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #81 on: March 07, 2019, 06:53:22 PM »
Yup, me too. Good shots. Of course I never did anything with them.
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mrbig

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #82 on: March 08, 2019, 07:46:08 PM »
Nice looking submarine! You were ripping on it.
 
Thanks for posting pictures of great surfing. NO SUITS! Jealous!
Let it come to you..
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Cardiff Sweeper

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The Cardiff Foil Sessions
« Reply #83 on: April 19, 2019, 06:45:04 PM »
Hello people of the interwebs.

So, the Sweeper's collection of foiling equipment is rapidly growing, and so are his foiling skills (if only)...
And just like how I predicted, my new hobbies quickly have money throw at them.
I've amassed two foil boards, two complete Ke Nalu foil setups with a total of four wings. Two small, two large.
There is a SUP foil board on the way...soon.



I've had about 40 sessions in the water since late February.
The first 20 were a disaster, but a lesson with a local pro quickly elevated my skills (pun intended).
My repeated mistake is getting the board too high and breaching the wing.
I'm such a heavy rear-footed surfer, that every few waves I don't keep enough weight on the front foot and nose-dive...HARD.
This morning I did test out a 6'10" SUP and after a couple unsuccessful takeoffs, I got it dialed in. 

Ok, here's some multimedia content:


This isn't pretty, but I also didn't know someone was filming.  Of course, the least attractive wave was recorded:



Jeff Clark
4'6"
Ke Nalu foil w/ IWA 775 wing


Oh...and I fall a lot, and haven't figured out how to pump back out to the lineup.
But I dream of stitching multiple waves together.


Cheers.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2019, 06:55:33 PM by Cardiff Sweeper »

PonoBill

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #84 on: April 19, 2019, 08:40:58 PM »
Your dinky board skills are helping obviously, but I can see why you're overfoiling, and of course you already know. Your weight is centered and you are leaning across your board instead of facing front. your head is facing forward but your shoulders aren't. I'd just shut up, but that's a good way to get hurt. If your board tips to the inside of the turn you'll lean out instead of twisting your hips to correct, and that means the outside wing will get lift, you'll jackknife over the high side and fall on the foil. I'll bet you're using weight to turn, and until you are committing to deep banked turns that's not the way to do it. Weaker turns (my specialty, so far) are done by twisting your hips to steer the foil. You don't have rails in the water, leaning doesn't do it.

Likewise, when you do a cutback and the board accelerates down the face and starts getting too much lift, you are in no position to get full weight on your front foot. You'll faceplant at the same point of the turn over and over. Been there, done that, got the aching sinuses.

It's a bitch to change something that's been working well for you with surfboards, but foiling IS NOT surfing. You need to rotate your upper body to face forward and be able to get your hips forward. You need to be able to get them over your front toes when you have to. You'll see really good guys, especially the prone guys, foiling in the stance you're using, but that's when they've already learned to do turns with good pitch control and they are committing to deeply banked turns. That's what I'm trying to learn now.

Junya's turns are about as extreme as anyone's.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2019, 09:02:17 PM by PonoBill »
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Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Dwight (DW)

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #85 on: April 20, 2019, 03:46:21 AM »
Bill is spot on.

I think you’re also making the typical surfer mistake of crouching. Standing more upright, relaxed and chill, makes it easier to control the foil.


Cardiff Sweeper

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #86 on: April 20, 2019, 07:27:30 AM »
 Thanks for the coaching, Bill. Yes it’s hard to know what I am doing wrong without outside observation and from people who know how to do this, or are at least more experienced than I am.  With all the research and videos that I have done, I have been too focused on foot placement. Rarely are my feet out of place, and now I’ll focus more on the upper body part (Get in the flow).

And it does feel like I am crouching too much, but that is what beginners do because being two feet off the water feels pretty scary sometimes!  I have certainly achieved some pretty long flight times, but then out of nowhere I hit the deck because the foil breached. Muscle memory, practice and more experience will fix all of that. One day at a time, one session at a time.

 :)

Edit:  And fools like me who think we know everything have the hardest time doing the simplest things.

-Breathe
-Relax
-Breathe
« Last Edit: April 20, 2019, 07:31:23 AM by Cardiff Sweeper »

fatfish

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #87 on: April 20, 2019, 01:46:30 PM »
Hey Cardiff

That looks pretty good.  I am not that far ahead of you on sessions.  Once i figured out the right stance and started to feel comfortable 2 feet above the water, my flights are starting to become more consistent.  Having said that I have had fun sessions then going from hero to zero (breaching left and right).  I start to feel confident like i know what i am doing then I breach my tips trying to turn too hard or the wave pitched, arg.  I always have to tell myself to not try to surf the foil but guide the foil through gently inputs.

PonoBill

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #88 on: April 20, 2019, 07:55:01 PM »
I don't crouch enough--old and stiff. I think I'm getting low, and then someone shoots a picture. Bastards.

It isn't the crouch that going to get you crunched, it's facing across the board. Rotate your body forward including your hips and shoulders and suddenly everything gets easier.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Cardiff Sweeper

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Re: The Cardiff Sessions
« Reply #89 on: May 03, 2019, 07:22:55 PM »
Today

Third session on a SUP foil. First session using a front foot strap.
I'm putting the rear one on tomorrow.
Such a wide stance...I think it'd be easier to just use both.

Foil Science by Chuck Glynn
6'10"x27" (maybe 28")