Author Topic: Leash Repair  (Read 15593 times)

Roundhouse

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Leash Repair
« on: September 13, 2012, 05:30:25 AM »
Last weekend, during the peak of the hurricane Leslie swell, my leash failed where the urethane cord terminates at the swivel. It was a long swim in holding a paddle from far outside for an old sweeper like me.

It is not clear to me how it was held in there. There seems to be a small stainless ball down in the molded plastic ands the urethane does not look damaged. I would like to repair it if just for a spare. I was thinking of driling a passage in the plastic for the cord and crimping the end with a copper sleave.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Naish Nalu, Mana, Glide & Cannibal Assassin

madmax

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2012, 05:53:40 AM »
My personal choice is always "shitcan".  It's not worth another swim-in with a paddle.

PonoBill

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2012, 06:40:13 AM »
Yes, you can do that. Hell, Dave Kalama gives me crap for not repairing broken leashes by welding the broken bits together. It works. You just heat the ends till they melt slightly and push them together. It will make a thick spot and the next break won't be anywhere near it. If you have a nicked leash you can cut through the nick and do the same thing. But Dave swims like a dolphin, and breaks more leashes in a month than I do in a year.

My criteria is "can I make this stronger than the manufacturer did" and sometimes the answer is yes, but other than that I don't repair leashes. I do my swimming at Baby Beach or a pool.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Old School 213

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2012, 07:47:24 AM »
Look at the down side. SUS-ing in So Cal with lots of other people I'm guilty of replacing a leash too early because I'd hate to be responsible for injuring another person. $25 is a small cost to minimize the risk.

By the sound of the failure it does not sound like that robust a design. What brand leash was it? Was it a Heavy Duty or SUP specific leash?

 

southwesterly

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2012, 10:54:09 AM »
+ 1 for shitcan.
25 bucks is a small price to pay not worry
about something when you don't have to.

stoneaxe

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2012, 01:13:26 PM »
+2 for shitcan.

I buy heavy duty leashes only, always carry an unopened spare, and if I see a nic I get rid of it. Getting rid of it in this case means repairing if necessary and giving it to my wife, daughter or sister...all of whom only SUP flatwater in nice conditions.
Bob

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Tom

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2012, 01:41:01 PM »
FYI if you look closely, you will see that the swivels on both the cuff side and the other side there is a small screw that comes out with an allen wrench. You can use this to switch cuffs or replace the board attachment piece.  Not sure this will help you though.

bts

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2012, 03:36:40 PM »
One more vote for shitcan. 

I've repaired one only to have it break somewhere else.  Once they start breaking they are past due for replacement.

Roundhouse

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2012, 06:41:23 AM »
Thanks for the replys. It's not about being cheap, although wife would disagree, it is about throwing away an otherwise good leash.

I think Pono is onto something. Looking at the little stainless ball where the cord terminates at the swivel, I don't think it could be anything but melted onto the ball. There is no room to be swaged.

I think I'll give that a go and do a load test.
Naish Nalu, Mana, Glide & Cannibal Assassin

punasurf

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2012, 11:20:28 AM »
I once replaced an old leash just because it was time, and my new one broke in no time at all.  Usually the cord isn't the problem.  It's the connections.  Personally, I will never by a Da Kine leash.  I have had 3 break in the exact same spot.  Right where the cord is attached to the railsaver, it is held by this little crappy string that you cannot even see to keep an eye on.  Not sure what the answer is, but check your connections the best you can and beware of DaKine.  BTW  DaKine was real cool about sending a free replacement, but where I surf, a broken leash puts your board onto the rocks real quick.  So it's the damage to the board that I worry about.  If anyone can recommend a killer leash, please let me know.

SUPerLEO

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Re: Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2012, 12:58:48 PM »
my xm powercord is pretty strong the metal bar ripped out of my plug before the leash broke and it has a release pin if your board is gonna drag you to the rocks

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Celeste

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Re: Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2012, 02:46:49 PM »
my xm powercord is pretty strong the metal bar ripped out of my plug before the leash broke and it has a release pin if your board is gonna drag you to the rocks

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Roundhouse

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2012, 12:56:26 PM »
Melting the end and jamming it in the swivel termination did not work. I think it cooled too quickly. Now I'm trying 3M  5200 polyurethane sealant in the termination.

This is a knee leash and I should not have been wearing it on such a large swell. But I love it on the small surf we usually get.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Naish Nalu, Mana, Glide & Cannibal Assassin

madmax

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2012, 02:13:24 PM »
Thanks for the update.

PonoBill

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Re: Leash Repair
« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2012, 04:20:23 PM »
My preferred termination for heavy duty leashes is when the manufacturer doubles the lease over, passing the leash through a swivel loop and then wraps the leash with heavy cord or wire and shrink-wraps the whole mess. I prefer this because the PU cord shrinks in diameter when it's stretched, so any swaging or gluing that depend on the surface of the leash for attachment doesn't seem prudent. I don't KNOW that it's a problem, it just seems that it would be.

I've sometimes bought a heavy leash, junked the swaged connection and made up my own. All depends on how paranoid I'm being. Incidentally, I think knee leashes are just fine in big surf.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

 


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