Author Topic: Removing glued paddle handle  (Read 10946 times)

Irishsuper

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Removing glued paddle handle
« on: June 16, 2012, 10:56:17 AM »
Hey,

I have found that my glued in handle is not in line with the blade and shaft so therefore I am trying to remove it and re position it. I just can't get it out! I've tried boiling water, hair dryer and a gas cooker! The glue just won't let it out!

Please give me some suggestions..

Thanks

swordfish1227

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2012, 11:11:02 AM »
you can usually get the glue to break down with a heat gun. What glue did you use?

Irishsuper

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2012, 11:44:03 AM »
The gas cooker didn't do the job and I figured it would do the same thing as a heat gun? I got it in my local hardware shop, it was two cylinders that you mixed together and it dried quickly...

SUPerstitious

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #3 on: June 16, 2012, 12:08:33 PM »
I've never had a problem getting the 5 minute epoxy to give up the ghost just using a heat gun...and it wasn't nearly as much heat as I would have guessed.

I have found that if you heat it up, then twist it a bit, that seems to work better than just heating it and then pulling straight out.

Have done this 6-7 times between my paddles and those of friends.

Good luck!
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swordfish1227

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2012, 12:08:35 PM »
Probably 90 second epoxy. Use the heat gun and get a good amount of heat, then grab the handle and twist it a little ways out. It will come.


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PonoBill

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2012, 05:18:51 PM »
I depends on the epoxy brand and setup time. Some release at about 240, some go a lot higher. Try to restrict your heating to the glued area. If you twist to hard when the shaft is hot you'll collapse it. There's no guarantee this will work out well. It's about a 70 percent success rate as far as I've seen.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

stoneaxe

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2012, 09:31:26 AM »
I had to cut mine before. Not sure what glue they used but it wasn't coming out with heat,at least not heat that wouldn't have cooked everything. If your replacing the handle you may want to cut it off flush at the top of the shaft and then carefully cut/split the remaing ferrule inside to make it easier to get out.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

swordfish1227

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2012, 09:34:51 AM »
That is an option also. Had to do that to a hobie mast Thursday - cut it just above flush with the shaft(leave yourself a little bit of handle to grab) and then cut up, down, left, and right. That will release some of the pressure in there. Should be easier to get out. Of course you will need a new handle at this point though.


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baddog

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2012, 11:20:24 AM »
Number one, use a heat gun not a hair dryer.  You need to know how far the handle inserts into the shaft.  It can be a longer then you think, 3" on my Quick for example.  As mentioned before, only heat the glued area.   Do not over heat!  You can destroy your shaft as well as the handle.  As soon as it's too hot to touch all the way around is the general rule.  Do not twist the handle, pull it straight out.  Plastic handles can easily deform which will destroy the handle and can ovalize the shaft.  If you're lucky, you can just reset it, but heated up epoxy is generally toast and should be cleaned up when hot and the handle done from scratch again.  It can be easy, but if you're not willing to buy or borrow a heat gun, just take it to the shop :)

Irishsuper

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2012, 01:40:02 PM »
Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I don't have a heat gun so I've tried again with my gas cooker cause from what I understand it seems to provide a similar feature as the heat gun. Is that correct? I held it under a light flame for two minutes until it was hot to touch with my finger and it still won't come out. Should I hold it under longer or is a heat gun ESSENTIAL to do the job?

PonoBill

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2012, 01:44:42 PM »
NO!. You'll break down the epoxy matrix in the shaft. An open flame is MUCH hotter than the hot air coming out of a heat gun. the average temp might be lower but you'll spot heat the shaft to 600-700 degrees.

If a hairdryer doesn't work (try putting a finger over some of the inlet holes) then cut it, slit the shaft, and pick it off. Better yet, go buy a heat gun. 30 bucks or less at a hardware store. If you can't do that you might try immersing the handle in hot oil, you can get refined Canola up to about 300 degrees F before it starts smoking. Let the shaft get up to temperature--a quick dip won't deliver even temperature. Carbon Fiber isn't that great a conductor of heat. If that won't melt the epoxy it's just not gonna go.

Be careful not to burn yourself with hot oil--makes a nasty burn that takes forever to heal.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012, 01:52:19 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

headmount

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2012, 10:10:06 AM »
This torch and hot oil treatment is starting to sound medieval.  There could be parts of the country where you might just set it out in the sun. ;D

Subber

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2019, 11:18:51 AM »
This is probably old hat to most, but I just removed my old QB Kahana Handle and replaced
it with a new one.  So, I thought I would add my experience to this thread.

Below is a pic of the 9 year old handle - you may be able to see the cracks.

I'd purchased the paddle back in 2010.  I would turn the paddle upside down to use the handle
for support walking over tricky reef parts but after about seven years the handle developed a leak
in the seam.  For a couple of years I just used crazy glue to patch it - that would keep it from leaking
for a couple of months and then the leak would start again.  At some point, the cracks got bigger
so I switched to two part 30 minute epoxy.  That worked pretty well, but then that peeled off.
Finally, I noticed the handle was starting to twist a bit and that there was now a horizontal crack
in addition to the vertical ones.  I was concerned it handle would break off, maybe cut me,
the paddle could sink (not too likely), and it would be even tougher to fix/replace if it broke off.

So I used the hot gun.  I heated it up for about a minute and tried to pull it out - nope, not yet.
Heated it for another minute - tried again - nope not yet.  I was being careful not to twist it too much
since it felt like it would break.  So, one more minute or so with the heat gun and a hard pull with a bit
of a twist and it came out. Nice.

So ordered a new one,  sanded the any old epoxy out of the shaft, installed the new one,
good to go.
Jimmy Lewis Black & Blue Noserider 10'1"x31"x4.25," 164 liters, 24 lbs, 1 box
Pearson Laird Surftech Longboard 10'6"x23"x29.75"x18"x4.375," 154 liters, 24 lbs, 3 boxes
Takayama Ali'i II Surftech 11'x21.375”x28.5”x17.25”x 4.25,” 162 liters, 26 lbs, 3 boxes

Area 10

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #13 on: May 20, 2019, 06:15:13 PM »
Sometimes - in fact nearly all the times for me - no matter what you do, you just won’t get that handle off. My last one I used a heat gun and the handle wouldn’t budge. Eventually, after about 30 mins of very careful and progressive hearing and pulling, the shaft deformed. Peachy.

It just depends what glue you used, how well you glued it, and how well the handle fitted the shaft. Some handles are such a tight fit that you hardly need glue anyway.

I own 24 SUP paddles, and have changed my preferred paddle length from 83” to 76” over the last 12 years, so I’ve had a lot of experience of this. And my own personal experience is that a well-epoxied handle does not come off more times than it does, even with 5 min epoxy (the leading brand in Europe) and an expensive heat gun. So be prepared with a plan B.

PonoBill

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Re: Removing glued paddle handle
« Reply #14 on: May 20, 2019, 08:27:39 PM »
This is probably old hat to most, but I just removed my old QB Kahana Handle and replaced
it with a new one.  So, I thought I would add my experience to this thread.

Below is a pic of the 9 year old handle - you may be able to see the cracks.

I'd purchased the paddle back in 2010.  I would turn the paddle upside down to use the handle
for support walking over tricky reef parts but after about seven years the handle developed a leak
in the seam.  For a couple of years I just used crazy glue to patch it - that would keep it from leaking
for a couple of months and then the leak would start again.  At some point, the cracks got bigger
so I switched to two part 30 minute epoxy.  That worked pretty well, but then that peeled off.
Finally, I noticed the handle was starting to twist a bit and that there was now a horizontal crack
in addition to the vertical ones.  I was concerned it handle would break off, maybe cut me,
the paddle could sink (not too likely), and it would be even tougher to fix/replace if it broke off.


That is the UGLIEST handle I've ever seen. It looks like you could get MRSA just touching it. I'd whack that off, remove with rubber gloves, and add a new one that doesn't look like ET with a bad case of psoriasis.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

 


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