Author Topic: Reseating leash plug  (Read 891 times)

Stew

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Reseating leash plug
« on: April 07, 2024, 01:36:28 AM »
Morning!

I’ve just had the leash plug rip out of my 10’ SUP. I’m looking to reset it but need some advice please.



I’ve made a couple of hollow wood boards before so have resin and fibreglass plus a bit of experience.

This board is eps and I think I need to cut a new piece out to drill a fresh hole for the plug as it seems too spacious in there to just reglue.



 I’m in the uk and trying to find a small piece of suitable grade eps or other foam seems impossible. I have no local shapers else I would ask if they could spare an off cut.

I’m wondering about cutting a block of balsa and fitting that then drilling a hole in that for the plug. All glued and glasses in and over.

Do you think that’s a suitable plan?

I’ve seen about gap filling using expanding foam but as this takes such a pounding I figure solid is better!

sflinux

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Re: Reseating leash plug
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2024, 11:31:48 PM »
I've had a dual set of plugs get pulled out of a 11'6" Jeff Clark Mavericks SUP gun.  I replaced with standard FCS leash plugs.  I used epoxy with a thickener.  Don't use q-cell,  you wan't to use something stronger like milled fibers.  I fiberglass over the top for strength.
The vent plug in my Hobie RAW CMP cracked and started leaking.  I replaced it with a vented leash plug from Greenlightsurfsupply. 
https://greenlightsurfsupply.com/products/surfboard-vented-leash-plug-v314?_pos=1&_sid=633d54269&_ss=r
The kit came with 2 part epoxy (the kind in a tube where you rip a piece off and rub together like Playdoh to mix) that you form a ring around the bottom of the hole of the board to seal the vent, then epoxy and milled fibers to seal around the perimeter of the plug.

If there is a lot of play in the plug, I would reinforce the hole.  For example you can put a sheet (or two) of fiberglass around the plug  I would something like milled fibers & epoxy under the plug to strengthen the foam underneath. Then I would tape over the hole, and do another 2 layers of fiberglass over the plug.  I would also glass over the cracked areas of the wood on the board.  You may want to consider adding a second leash plug to ease some of the load.

The balsa idea should work but sounds like it would be more involved (i.e. take longer). 
I recently had to repair a fin box that was damaged and sunk into the board.  The foam compressed.  I ripped the box out and reused it.  I had to rebuild the foam.  I used gorilla glue mixed with a drop of water and cover the finbox with clear packing tape (so it won't stick) and insert to make a mold.  Then I removed the finbox (still has packing tape) again and used epoxy and filler (i.e. milled fibers), toe strengthen the gorilla glue (give it a hard shell).  Then I removed the tape off the fin box and added epoxy and filer and fiberglass cloth underneath to reinforce.  Then I taped the holes for the fins and glassed over the top of the fin box.  Depending on how much play you have you could skip the gorilla glue step.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2024, 11:54:08 PM by sflinux »
Quiver Shaped by: Joe Blair, Blane Chambers, Jimmy Lewis, Kirk McGinty, and Bob Pearson.
Me: 200#, 6'2"

Stew

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Re: Reseating leash plug
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2024, 12:22:54 PM »
Thanks.

Definite food for thought.

I actually think that the balsa idea could end up being simpler - my concern with other ideas is making sure the hole is fully filled. I’m pondering cutting a round balsa plug which would essentially just make a massive leash plug.

The cracked deck could just be removed with balsa rather than trying to patch it.

Whichever method I go for, I am concerned about strength. Mostly because I don’t want it to pop out and cut short a session again. I had to borrow a board from friends for the last two sessions last week but the next time I’m away, I have no spare options so will be taking resin and fibreglass with me!!

 


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