Navigating (surviving) steeper surf on open class boards...

[justingordon]

I'm getting ready for the Olukai race this coming weekend in Maui. The end of the race finishes through breaking waves at Camp One. I've got a 17' Naish and have learned to get far back when catching a steep swell.

I'm wondering what strategy you guys have on the long open class boards when navigating the surf? Today, at Camp One, going into Kanaha, I caught a wave, and the back of the wave just jacked up too steep and fast that no matter how far back on the board I got, was going to pearl hard. The tide was low making the waves suck out harder. I'm a good surfer, but I have NO idea how to navigate the super long, low rocker board in a steep wave.

A few days ago at high tide, I got lucky and got a wave that allowed me to ride the face a ways to the right, rather than a steep and closed out one like today.

So in racing, I don't want to sit around waiting for the right wave, but I also can't afford the time to get totally worked in the surf!

If the wave breaks behind you, and the whitewater catches you, that isn't too pleasant either.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

If anybody is looking for advice on paddling in Maui (lots of races coming up) and where to stay, eat, etc. or wants to join me for some Maliko runs, don't hesitate to contact me.

Aloha,

Justin
http://www.sugarranchmaui.com

[Kevin]

Is it legal to lie on or kneel on the board when catching the wave?

[PonoBill]

get right back on the tail and stall the board a little, try like crazy to keep it pointed straight. If it starts to turn it will round up and dump you.

[TallDude]

I know the feeling. If the surf gets to big, they should change the finish. It's just dangerous, and not worth trashing you and your board. I've finish races in 5' to 6' surf on my 18'6 board. I get way back, almost to a stall and go straight as you can. It looks like your going to pearl sometimes, but the nose almost always surfaces if you keep moving back. Think of the outriggers, they always kind of pearl at first. As far as being on your knees or prone, the rules just say taking more than X many 'paddle strokes' while on your knees. If your on a wave and on your knees, you are probably not paddling. You can also slow down and wait for a break in the sets, then just paddle hard to th shore.

[1paddle2paddle]

I've got that same board and have experienced that same problem.  Once that nose starts going underwater and the tail is being pushed by the following swell, it usually is too late to do much about it.  The nose is not designed to push back up towards the surface and instead keeps penetrating downward.

If I can get back to the tail in a hurry, sometimes I can save myself and prevent myself from "Supermaning" - when the board pearls hard and I go flying forward.  In fact, I have put pieces of traction pad on the board aft of the stock pad because there are times when I have had my back foot that far back in an attempt to prevent it from pearling.

Getting all the way to the back is the only way I have found to prevent what you are describing.