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Messages - surfinJ
Pages: 1 ... 118 119 [120] 121 122 ... 125
1786
« on: February 26, 2012, 03:28:45 AM »
My wife painted some wood with a big rising sun for the kids to jump their horses over.
My father-in-law was separated from his family and imprisoned as a kid in indonesia, he was less than pleased; but that's history for the granddaughters, he grimiced and dealt with it.
SoCal your board is beautiful, old school classic. Find a clear deck pad!
1787
« on: February 25, 2012, 02:14:41 PM »
To really power carve a turn or hold the board on the steep (vertical) pocket part of the wave you need to have your back foot over the fins. As the wave approaches, you would be at first still paddleling in the neutral stance, manuevering towards the steeper peak or curl area. If the wave is going to break slopey and is not big this stance can be held to take off, followed by a quick foot shuffle- cross stepping usually not the choice as the boards nose is dropping- to surf stance. When you set up for a turn, foot all the way back, abit off center onto the rail in direction of turn. If the wave is not steep or your speed is not high your weight has to move forward to keep the flow going.
If the approaching wave is going to break steeply or is big, just before it arrives, transition over a few stokes to your foot back stance. The last stroke will ideally be into the takeoff, foot on the tail railside to the wave face. As long as you are fast or steep, this foot placement works. If you feel your energy bleeding off, weight forward - or your feet forward- until you accelerate. Then foot back and enjoy.
1788
« on: February 21, 2012, 03:18:40 AM »
My smallest board 9-2x28 is still quite bouyant for my weight and the rest are boats. One of the kicks of stand up for me is the mobility and the catch any wave characteristics in the line up. That said, in the search for my next board I have wondered- on a board with reduced bouyancy, resulting in a feet wet situation- would the board be more stable in chop as it is not floating on the surface?
1789
« on: February 19, 2012, 04:46:42 AM »
Yea thanks, beautiful and unspoiled. Oz is so cool, so much space with so little inhabitants. Nice of your friend to share his piece of paradise with us.
1790
« on: February 16, 2012, 12:08:55 PM »
Oh, exsqueeze me, Zoner?
1791
« on: February 16, 2012, 12:06:25 PM »
Chaos theory, surf style.
1792
« on: February 16, 2012, 11:58:42 AM »
It is worth the little effort to mix it up. The juice of the waves is also a reason to switch around. As the waves get smaller I go to really smaller setups to keep the board loose. Have some fun.
1793
« on: February 15, 2012, 01:55:14 PM »
That was a a nice, almost meditative way to clear the short term memory of the days extraneous yadayada. Time to shut it down and hit the rack. Thanks SoCal.
1794
« on: February 11, 2012, 07:02:19 AM »
When traveling I pick up a standard slap, made thoughout the less developed world from recycled car tires. Alittle tough between the toes at first, but they cost less than a buck.
1795
« on: February 11, 2012, 06:57:02 AM »
Although a grown up discussion would be nice, why would that be possible here, when it doesn't appear to be possible elsewhere in society? As a group we can share some waves, and the stoke from that afterwards. But I'm afraid if the talk gets political, we'll be wanting to pull each others hair out. Sad.
1796
« on: February 11, 2012, 06:49:41 AM »
Carib, if ever the chance, contact me for a sup tour of the area. When the swell starts to grow past 10', waves start to break inside the harbor of St Jean de Luz, north and south corners. About a mile out to sea from there is the big wave tow in spot Belhara, a fairly close in seamount.
1797
« on: February 10, 2012, 02:11:48 PM »
Greetings Carib, I'm about 15min north of Biarritz, just south of Hossegor. Like most places, the crowds herd a couple of spots leaving alot of room elsewhere. Would have prefered somewhere without winter but ended up here. Cést la viè. Can't complain. Enjoy.
1798
« on: February 10, 2012, 10:01:41 AM »
Have a great surf you gifted socal zoners,
and Beasho, that was really cool, thanks.
1799
« on: February 10, 2012, 06:53:08 AM »
Getting into the ocean, preferably with a large amount of time on my hands, trolling for ridable waves as I cruise along the coast, paradise! The board I started sup on would be the ticket, easy paddlin and wave catching. Closest beach to my house then north, two miles of beachbreaks till the herds start.
1800
« on: February 10, 2012, 04:10:26 AM »
Yea pdx, I hesitated posting that sappy thing, had weak moment due to one of beasho's typically thought provoking threads.
Pages: 1 ... 118 119 [120] 121 122 ... 125
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