Messages

3061

SUP General / Re: East Coast Surf Video-it aint sup but its good.

« on: December 07, 2012, 11:40:49 AM »

Something smells fishy. 

Those guys were so good I can't imagine that they just fell out of the local horse barn and pulled into a barrel to throw an aerial 360.

3062

SUP General / Re: Waxing a SUP?

« on: December 07, 2012, 11:30:44 AM »

When I was young I learned from my elders.  Now the tables are turned and I learn from 15 year olds.

Take a look at the best in the world.  3 out of 4 are using WAX on their boards.  If you watch the video at the podium Leco is wielding his board as if it weighs 10lbs.  It is clearly a weight thing as the (majority of the) best are NOT using pads. "Wax wins nostalgia points" and World Cup competitions as well.  

I have one board (of 4) that is wax only.  The grip is solid.  The ONLY downside is when I have slipped   having forgotten to refresh the wax.  The net is that my 10' board (with wax) is lighter than my 9' PSH (with pad).  There are other contributing issues, but you get the idea.  

3063

SUP General / Re: Kai Lenny's trip to Oz.. vid.

« on: December 06, 2012, 11:18:46 AM »

When I was a kid I taught myself to windsurf reading magazines.  Jibes, jumps and eventually loops all from words and still photos.

Kai's RedBull channel is a modern version of 'WindRider' but it comes out every 2 weeks and is free with 30 still shots a second in something called Hi-Def.  Wow!

The last 3 minutes, 5:00 - 8:00 were truly inspiring.  Go Kai!

3064

Gear Talk / Re: Fanatic 9'6" All Wave in large surf? Heavy rider.

« on: December 04, 2012, 02:40:35 PM »

As an alternate, here is "Northern Supper" on a 10' 6" PSH Hull Ripper.   He weighs ~ 225.

He mentioned the other day that there are "Two opposing camps to big wave surfing."  Oh?  I said . . . Do tell!

"Yes you can either go big, with a large gun, or go small and take off deep."  

I would consider 10' 6" a small board for the size of this wave.  Northern Supper is a bit extreme when it comes to the commitment necessary and willingness to take the beating associated with waves in the 2X++++ size range.  Your choice.

3065

Gear Talk / Re: Fanatic 9'6" All Wave in large surf? Heavy rider.

« on: December 04, 2012, 02:32:17 PM »

Back to the topic at hand.  For bigger waves a 9' 6" sounds a bit small.  I weigh 175 and was out on my 9' 2" Hull Ripper in 2.5X+ the other day and was feeling very under gunned.  

The Makaha video shows bigger, mushier waves, similar to what we have here in Half Moon Bay.  That said, the board shown here is a Jeff Clark 10'.  My first SUP.  This thing handles everything up to 3X and I have only felt under gunned at Mavericks on this board.  This is 3 generations old, from a Jeff Clark design perspective (e.g. he has learned not to put the handle in the stringer, you will not get a mast track, and the bottoms are now similar to the PSH Hull Ripper with chines), but I loved it enough to have resurrected it from a full break.  3 additional buckles later I still love this board.  Better yet if you were to just tell Jeff what you want, your ability and weight he will just "make it."  

I highly recommend Jeff's boards.  Prepare to wait (several months) for the board though.    

Here mine was as a baby, and as a beaten, but still beloved old hag.

3066

Gear Talk / Re: Easiest Board Shape to Bust through Shore Break

« on: November 28, 2012, 10:07:34 AM »

I always got out when no one else could... why? because I always had to rely on timing and reading the ocean... finesse beats muscle every time.
Pick the spot with the best potential.    Time it right... and hustle.

For starters OB is one of the best surfing beach breaks IN THE WORLD.  It is rarely below chest high and can serve up some of the best A frame peaks anywhere.  Pacifica when its big, OB all other times.  Fort Point can be a bit territorial.

That said, SUPTheCreek is on the money.  Listen to your elders.  I was asking Jeff Clark about (SUP) surfing OB and he mentioned he was out a couple of weeks ago with '20 foot faces.'  That guy knows his stuff, and doesn't need to exaggerate.  I asked about the paddle out and he said "Just look for the green water and go . . it only took me 10 minutes . . about as long as it would take to paddle out anyways."  He tends to give advice cryptically like Yoda, but as with all of Yoda's advice you can take it to heart.  I have been out up to 1 1/2X at OB, on a SUP, and while spooky you need to leverage board speed, visibility and sprint.  Then enjoy the magic.

3067

SUP General / Re: Online maps--measuring distance

« on: November 12, 2012, 03:13:45 PM »

I have used MapMyRun.com.  You set up a free account.  Uncheck - "Follow Roads" and you can get something like this over the water.  

Zig/Zag can be added as well.

3068

SUP General / Re: How many long-time surfers have quit regular surfing for stand up surfing only?

« on: November 09, 2012, 01:39:51 PM »

You need to expand your question:  "What have you given up for Stand Up Surfing?"

Oh, great question:
1) Prone Surfing.  Since sold 4 boards.
2) 5 waves per hour . . .  for 15 waves per hour
3) Windsurfing.  I can get the same stoke in 90 minutes and be home or at work before 9 am.
4) Running.  I get enough exercise from SUP.
5) Mowing the lawn.  Just get a lawn guy and don't miss your weekend session
6) Sloth for Stoke.  You can SUP surf EVERY Day
7) Most of my other hobbies.  Not enough time for them AND  3 kids, dog, job & wife

3069

SUP General / Re: Kai Lenny in Melbourne.

« on: November 09, 2012, 01:30:14 PM »

I feel semi creepy gazing at his style.  Kind of like looking for the latest technology on the 'Hot Chicks' thread.

That said, I do surf like Kai . . . . . in my head.

I noticed his paddle release is extreme, like perfectly 90 degrees from power, parallel to the board.  

I second the question: What camera is he using?  If I can figure these two things out then I will likely be able to surf just like him.

3070

SUP General / Re: Imagine "The Pro" or another Stamps custom?

« on: November 07, 2012, 08:52:17 PM »

Welcome to SUP's never ending Chocolate Factory.  These shots were taken from Ocean Beach.  It is one of the best beach breaks in the world for surfing.  It is great for SUP when you learn to get out . . .  which is not easy.  

I am biased because these guys are my mentors and they ride Paddle Surf Hawaii (PSH), and Jeff Clark's boards.  But, don't get too excited because they are oompa loompas, they zip left, and zip right and these are shoulder high waves.

The guy on the blue board rides PSH, he is yoda to everyone that SUP's in Half Moon Bay.  He inspired everyone to learn, this includes the guy with green fleck (Skywalker #2) on a Clark custom  and Jeff himself (Kwi Gon #3 Yes he is on a SUP).  Jeff has become very accomplished and makes excellent boards that would satisfy your 'local' criteria.  My first board, a 10 foot Jeff Clark is still my Goto and would be the single choice for everything 2 to 20.  Lately I have also fallen for a 9'2" PSH Hull Ripper.  

If you (I) had to go with just 1 board I would recommend a 9' 6" Jeff Clark custom, or the 9' 6" PSH Hull Ripper.

Photos from here: http://www.norcalsurfphotos.com/p225927179

3071

SUP General / Re: Fairing a Ding Repair

« on: November 05, 2012, 06:12:25 PM »

Thanks everyone.  Repair turned out great.  At least well enough not to catch the eye without focusing pretty hard.  I hope others may benefit from these insights.

I have since put a golf-ball sized divot in the board.  I have no idea what it hit, probably some padded body part.  I am working that repair and using the 'taped off' method recommended earlier. 

3072

SUP General / Re: Fairing a Ding Repair

« on: November 05, 2012, 06:08:15 PM »

Hey Beasho:

1) Fair the edges using an 80 grit flap sander on a dremel.  Done gently, using just the weight of the tip, you can get the edges trimmed down and even sand off the extra epoxy without stripping off the paint.  Be careful to hold the tip parallel to the surface and watch how the sanding tip wears to be sure to only sand where desired.

2) Wetsand with 400 grit

3) Wetsand with 600 grit

4) Paint on a final, extremely thin, color matched layer of epoxy.  I have learned to use the cut off edge of a cardboard box.  It doesn't leave brush hairs like a cheap brush might and doesn't cost anything.  The key is to only use a very thin layer.  This will prevent any subtle puddling and leave a 'finished' look when dry with no further sanding or buffing required.

3073

SUP General / Re: Another Maui shark attack

« on: November 05, 2012, 11:34:22 AM »

Spoke with a guy yesterday who 'saw' a fin coming at him at my favorite solo surf spot in Northern California.  He too was solo a few days earlier. 

He is a very seasoned proner, and we have had dolphins daily, so I trust his perspective when he said it was 'big and scary.' 

Its easy to keep the statistics in mind despite the red triangle . . . yada yada . . I'll just keep on my feet thanks.

3074

SUP General / Re: Wave Count: The Pursuit of Happiness

« on: November 02, 2012, 04:10:16 PM »

Sad reality is that it takes 10,000 hours to be world class at something.  I thought I was pretty good until I realized that at the going rate I am going to need another 80 years to be the best.

3075

SUP General / Re: Wave Count: The Pursuit of Happiness

« on: November 02, 2012, 03:49:11 PM »

Before everyone starts bashing this perspective as ‘KOOK’, I can already hear Blane Chambers admonitions in my head, I will add a few more data points:

While I was doing my preliminary count I paddled out and found 2 other SUS’ers at my favorite spot, one was a local legend JC.  After exchanging pleasantries I said “Jeff you are the first person I have surfed with for the last 100 waves.” 

Maybe I am lucky.  I live in a place that is not known for great surf, but is fantastic for SUS.  More than half of my waves were caught completely solo.  SUS allows us to surf spots that proners often dismiss as too mushy, windy or less than totally perfect.  To be clear going to a crowded spot and weaving through a bunch of scowling short boarders will 1) Directly lower your wave count and 2) Create wafts of stink on and off the water that will ultimately diminish your happiness. 

To maximize wave count I read the buoy information and then just go.  I go early, I go when it’s a little bit windy.  I don’t spend 15 minutes looking at the spot or driving around.  15 minutes costs me 4 waves.

This morning I was hoping for great conditions and it didn’t quite play out.  Because I was counting I found myself saddened, sitting outside with just 2 waves in 15 minutes way below the average.  So after catching a wave I paddled out and saw a smaller wave coming in and figured ‘bird in the hand’ wheeled around and caught the wave.  Wow!  There were some morsels on the inside.  I switched my thinking from waiting for sets, few a far between, to taking more of what came my way.   I was taking off late, spinning falling, and making a few that surprised me.  Rather than sitting outside, overheating and waiting for the biggest waves I was catching, falling & riding short, fat, premature, overdone, sometimes unbroken waves engaged mentally and physically and having a blast.  Was I proud of every ride - No!   But this was skills training.  I ended up with 26 waves in a little more than an hour.

When it gets big and clean the count may go down.   Hopefully my investment in wave count will ensure that my takeoffs, bottom turns and cutbacks are ready when a favorable Surfline forecast and mother nature throw me their respective crowded line ups and harrowing drops.

PS: For those of you haughty enough to suggest that you would rather wait for the best waves remember you are on a Stand Up Board, not riding a 6’4” Al Merrick.  We are already compromising our ideals.  Heck you probably even know how to Kite or Windsurf.  Now that is Kooky!

Count on and prosper.