Messages

16

The Shape Shack / Re: Wetting out S-Glass Efficiently

« on: January 20, 2024, 03:23:01 AM »

When you roll the cloth onto the roller, it does a good job of leaving excess resin behind on the table.

What does this mean exactly? 

I have been struggling to find a good plastic to serve as a base layer for the lamination phase.  Too thick (4 mil) and any crinkles in the plastic bugger up the smoothness (see the picture above for the thick stuff).  Too thin, like automotive painting plastic, and the whispy nature of the plastic allows it to float around, flip over and get in the way.

I did use this Wet-Peg sandwich approach with thicker 6 oz carbon to great effect, but the S-Glass is more troublesome.  Last night I did a 1/2 lamination of the bottom of my 10' Skunk Works foil board and it took 3 hours from first batch mix until I got the board in the vacuum bag.  Thank G-d I was using slow cure, and split up the original 200 gram batch into smaller cups. 

17

The Shape Shack / Re: Wetting out S-Glass Efficiently

« on: January 19, 2024, 02:28:00 PM »

DW:

1) What ratios do you expect?

2) Do you use heat to decrease the viscosity of the resin for wetting?

From here:
https://entropyresins.com/how-tos/vacuum-bagging/?utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=Entropy%20Brand%20-%20TM&utm_content=134931312677&utm_term&hsa_acc=4776136476&hsa_cam=11087231982&hsa_grp=134931312677&hsa_ad=589832087716&hsa_src=s&hsa_tgt=aud-924956566053%3Adsa-820650217362&hsa_kw&hsa_mt&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs7iJi8XM_AIVMjWtBh2MaAzKEAAYASAAEgLeTvD_BwE

"The fibers in a laminate contribute to its strength more than the epoxy. To achieve the greatest strength with the lowest weight, take steps to reduce the ratio of epoxy to structural fabric (up to a point, of course). A typical wet lay-up, without vacuum bagging, is limited to about a 50:50 fiber-to-epoxy ratio. Vacuum bagging compacts the laminate so fibers are thoroughly wet out for a fiber-to-epoxy ratio as high as 65:35. Fiber-to-epoxy ratio is affected by:

• Vacuum pressure
• Epoxy viscosity
• Epoxy cure time (time under vacuum, before gelation)
• Perforated film pattern and hole size

18

The Shape Shack / Wetting out S-Glass Efficiently

« on: January 19, 2024, 11:08:13 AM »

When wetting out fiber with Epoxy Resin there is an ideal ratio of

• 60% by weight fiber
• 40% by weight of resin

to achieve maximum strength to weight in a hardened matrix when dry using a Vacuum bag.

I have been able to achieve this ratio with Carbon.  Wetting out the carbon on a table, using more Resin than necessary ~ 120% the weight of the fiber, and then vacuum bagging.  The end result comes out very close to 60% fiber / 40% resin. 

When I am wetting out the S2-Glass I am getting more like 45% by weight Fiber and 55% by weight Resin. 

I am wetting out on a table, with plastic.  It seems like the S Glass doesn't wet out as easily, sucks up more resin, but maybe just takes more time to spread.  Then the Vacuum is NOT taking out all the expected Excess resin.

Any Advice Appreciated.

19

Wingsurfing, Windfoiling, Wingfoiling, Wing SUP / Re: Calculating your BARG Factor.

« on: December 27, 2023, 10:05:30 PM »

I've been working on a simple equation to roughly calculate ease of takeoff for boards based on your board aspect ratio (B.A.R.) and your guild factor (G. Factor).

I've collected data from over 100 different riders and kits at this point and have a few notable data points to share, but need to more deeply refine this equation over time.

Here's how it works:
Calculate your board aspect ratio by simply dividing length by width. Add that number to your guild factor which is calculated by taking your boards liters, and dividing them into your weight in kgs.

OK - Here is my data. 

My Sailfish had a total of 5.88.  Was pretty good at Downwinding.  Then I added 2" of tail.  It is slightly better, but I may be getting better too. 

I have a board in the hopper that is 10'.  It will push your number to 7.01.  We will see how that works for paddle up. 

As you may be aware I have been focusing on keeping weight down with the HL factor which is (Weight in lbs / 100 Liters).  10.0 is par. 

• Sailfish Original - 5.88
• Sailfish New Tail - 6.03 - 8' x 21" x 6" x 130 liters @ 10.5 lbs.  Paddles up very well.  Gets up with a 5.5 meter sail in the lowest wind.  NO NEED FOR BIGGER SAIL.  Light weight 10.5 lbs means I don't need a smaller board.  No downside until you get into the open ocean, hard to start in 8+ foot open ocean conditions when its 20+ mph.  AKA too rolly polly.  Dicey on bigger waves meaning 7+ feet going fast with a bigger foil because of light weight.  BUT GREAT, GREAT in small short period chop
• BumbleBee - 4.42.  6' 9" x 26" x 5" 115 liters @ 11 lbs.  No way I would use this for downwinding unless it was perfect Gorge chip-in conditions.  Otherwise I love this board for SUP foiling in good, uncrowded conditions.  It is my preferred Wing Foil board.  Plenty of volume, 115 liters, means it never sinks and will work from 10 knots to 25 knots comfortably all on a 5.5 meter wing.  Because of its width, 26" it is stable in open ocean chop.  Still super light @ 11 lbs with footstrap.  So
• Javelin - 7.01   I am building this board.  10' x 22.75 x 5" should come in ~ 13 lbs.  Designed for big wave SUP foil Rhino Chasing.  Still being built.  Report to follow.

The Sailfish has ~ 170 sessions now
The BumbleBee has almost 100 sessions

20

The Shape Shack / Re: Chinook 16" tracks

« on: December 08, 2023, 03:31:55 PM »

Is this a FLAT Edge, Flange?

I just bought these boxes encased in Divinycell and want to butt arrows up to the outside edge.  I just want to make sure a 1/4" Arrow shaft will sit flush against this rail.

21

The Shape Shack / Re: Ultralight Board II – SUP Foil Bumblebee

« on: December 05, 2023, 09:57:38 AM »

I've never understood the purpose of the perforated release layer. I've had success skipping it whereas the breather layer is vital. Is it so you can try using the peel ply again?

The perforated release sits ABOVE the peel ply and below the breather layer.

1 huge benefit of perforated release is that you can REUSE THE BREATHER layer.  With the perforated release the breather just gets little dots of epoxy in the material, but it separates from the board and doesn't stick or tear away. 

If you put breather directly on peel ply the resin bleeds through the peel ply and fully sticks to the breather meaning you have to tear it all away.  Otherwise you can keep reusing the breather several times before things get to FUNKY. 

22

General Discussion / Re: Winner at Mavericks A Stand Up Guy

« on: November 26, 2023, 12:21:52 PM »

Still does it justice.

23

General Discussion / Winner at Mavericks A Stand Up Guy

« on: November 22, 2023, 01:15:19 PM »

Go Haley Fiske!

Opening day at Mavericks 2023-2024 season was won by a Stand Up Guy!

24

Foil SUP / Re: Foil Videos

« on: November 15, 2023, 08:42:54 AM »

Kane, Andrea, Craig and I all run NoLimitz masts and they asked us to go do a downwind video.  I have probably only done 3 runs since August (M2O) so I was a bit out of practice and on a new board....but it all came together ok.  Kane was absolutly killing it, tearing the place apart.  He was on a foil that he designed, so I have no idea what it is, but it was a surf foil.  I think Andrea, Craig and I were all on the Lift 120 with Kane tails.
https://youtu.be/YurXQYos1wA?si=dtw8Ov_gKf_KUwQ-

Great video.  Speaking of boards, what are the dimensions on this board?

We are building boards in Half Moon Bay.  We are realizing the benefits of LONGER boards when it comes to catching faster Ocean swells.  Next builds are going to be some 9' 6" x 17" and a x 23".  We will keep them light.

25

The Shape Shack / Re: Ultralight Board II – SUP Foil Bumblebee

« on: November 06, 2023, 10:24:04 AM »

The Gorilla glue sections eventually yellow.  That top shot was after primary cure.

Here are some shots that show the difference between the Epoxy and Gorilla glue laminations.  The XPS foam was uniformly Grey.  The yellowed areas were laminated with Gorilla glue. 

Whereas the sidewall 3.7oz S-Glass was Epoxy as was the top of the nose with 1.4 oz Fiberglass and Epoxy.

26

The Shape Shack / Re: Ultralight Board II – SUP Foil Bumblebee

« on: November 06, 2023, 10:16:30 AM »

I apologize for the delayed response:  Yes!  It is the Brown, standard Gorilla glue.

I don't have video of the lamination process but here is what I did:

1) Sand the XPS smooth.  Use 220 grit or finer, not 80 grit, it causes the surface to be TOO corrugated and absorb too much glue

2) Wet out the XPS Surface with the glue.  IF the XPS is smooth enough you can dribble the Gorilla glue on the surface.  Then use a Credit Card, or Plastic Hotel key to squeegee the Gorilla glue all over the surface.  Make it fairly thin.  Not too much excessive goop.  The Gorilla glue will squeegee very thinly.  Scrape off any excess into a dixie cup

3) Lay the DRY fiber on top of the wetted area.  It will be pretty tacky so make sure to get the alignment correct.  The Gorilla glue sets up pretty quickly, as in <30 minutes so you have to move fast, but I was only applying smaller patches.  Smooth out the fiber with the squeegee or credit card.  Eyeball it to make sure the fiber is getting wetted out.  Add Gorilla glue as necessary. 

4) Once it appears fully wetted out apply the peel ply.  Treat the lamination as you would epoxy.  You may try spraying gentle spritzes of water, but I might recommend waiting until after you put on the peel ply.

5) Add perforated release, and breather layer and Vacuum

What I found with the Vacuum was that the the vacuum at 20 inHg will NOT permit the gorilla glue to bubble up or expand.  I was hoping that it would reduce the density of the Gorilla glue which has a specific gravity of 1.1 exactly the same density as Epoxy.   The only places you will find the Gorilla glue bubbling up is where you might have had creases in the Fiber layer, or the peel ply/breather layer.

Otherwise the Gorilla glue will set up almost the same way as the Epoxy.  I did also find a weird result after vacuum bagging for 8 hours.  The Gorilla glue came out a bit tacky.  This was likely because the Gorilla glue needs moisture to cure.  In a vacuum with ZERO moisture the Gorilla glue acts like it was put back into the bottle. 

Here is a view of the bottom of my Sailfish showing where the laminations were Epoxy vs. Gorilla Glue.  I was wary that the Gorilla glue MIGHT not be the best in compression so I used epoxy in areas that I was more concerned about compression, or sheer.  As in the sidewall on TOP nose patch. 

27

Downwind and Racing / Re: So this popped up from 14 years ago on Facebook

« on: September 25, 2023, 02:24:51 AM »

Great story and foreshadowing the coming foil mania.

28

Foil SUP / Re: Foil Videos

« on: September 20, 2023, 05:48:54 AM »

US East coast.  Then it got big. Then it got crowded.  I watched Peter Lataille catching waves all over the place on a pure downwind board.  So I switched from the Bumblebee to the Sailfish and this happened. 

Reminding me that if it’s tiny or big, imperfect, windy or crowded the downwind, barracuda style Sailfish is the perfect tool for the job.

29

Foil SUP / Re: Foil Videos

« on: September 20, 2023, 05:38:59 AM »

When the latest gear meets clean East Coast surfing conditions you get this

30

Wingsurfing, Windfoiling, Wingfoiling, Wing SUP / Re: Narrow vs Wide Boards: Beginners to Advanced

« on: September 13, 2023, 04:09:14 PM »

In true open ocean conditions a downwind board is a nightmare.

You can’t stand with sidewash and waves.

You need a 6’ +++ and 30” wide board to learn.