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Messages - magentawave

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 123
31
Thanks, guys. :)  Why not contact him? He deleted the contact page on his website a couple years ago and his Twitter, FB and Insta pages have been inactive for three years. I enjoyed all of his podcasts so Iím glad its going again.

I can try Blue Zone but first I want to check out one of his boards. Anyone got one? (Iím in San Diego.)

32
The latest iteration of my 7-10 surf sup design (still in Shape 3DX) dropped from 114.5 liters to about 111 liters because of the V bottom with double concaves that was added. Thing is, I really need it to be no less than 114.5 liters. I could add more foam to the current 4 1/4Ē thickness but then it will feel like a cork and wonít perform as well.

I am considering a step deck with thin surfboard-like rails like Erik at Portal Surf Designís was doing with his Barra and Phantom. The claim was that his boards paddled well due to the volume in the deck but performed like surfboards because of the thin rails. Erik seems to have disappeared though.

Hereís what he did with the step deck and rails: https://portalsurfdesigns.com/

QUESTION:

Does anyone have a Phantom or Barra that I could check out or at least talk to you about? Iím in the north San Diego area. 

Thanks!🤙🏼🏄‍♂️

33
Gear Talk / Re: Hobie CM Series
« on: September 02, 2021, 08:51:33 AM »
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow so we'll see! It's at a price where I could resell without losing a dime if I don't jive with it. I wish it was 4" shorter and 10 less liters, but we'll see how she goes!

I had a 9í CM RAW but it was the longboard model with the same construction as yours. It was only 16 pounds and surfed good (had great flex) but was insanely fragile. It was shaped and glassed in So Cal. I ended up snapping it (my fault) and then fixed it. I bought it used but in perfect condition for $750. The seller had about $2300 into it. Because of the Hobie name you wonít have any problem at all reselling it if you donít like it. I also had an older 9-4 RAW with an outline similar to the one in the image. Only rode that one once cuz I didnít like the way it surfed.

34
UPDATE: In case anyone needs design work done on Shape 3D or Aku Shaper, I found a guy that is really really good. His name is Nick and he was able to copy my 8-6 quite accurately. Then I had him take the 8-6 and shrink it to a 7-10 based on what I learned from the 7-11 I shaped and glassed last fall. I canít wait to get this new 7-10 out in the water.🏄🏻‍♂️

Please PM me for Nicks contact information.

35
I called and that number is no longer in service but itís still on their website (surfers!). Anywho, I sent an email so hopefully that will work!

36
Another place to try is  KKLorders@gmail.com or call +1 (760) 659-0555
They are in Carlsbad. http://www.kklmachine.com/

Iíll call them tomorrow. Thanks!

37
I have a Shape 3D file of an 8-6 that is about 75% complete but I need someone in San Diego or Orange County (Iím in Carlsbad) to do the rails and bottom. I will email you the file and bring the board to you.

This is what I need done...

1) Copy the bottom and rails of the board I will bring to you and add them to the file.

2) Save and duplicate that file and then shrink the board down to a 7-10 with the same width and thickness as the 8-6 but with a wider nose.

Please let me know what you will charge for this.

Thanks!😀


38
The Shape Shack / Re: Shape 3D Questions
« on: October 06, 2020, 02:15:01 PM »
burchas, I used your file and tweaked it and got the volume I need. It will be 8'-2" x 29 1/2" x 4 1/4" x 117L

Thanks!

39
The Shape Shack / Re: Shape 3D Questions
« on: October 06, 2020, 11:36:51 AM »
Thx for explaining that save as better. As to the template I usually start from something close to what I want from the Warehouse and edit from there.

That's a good suggestion. Good place to start learning how to construct by analyzing pre-made shapes.

In general I have my own "blank" file where just basic slices (cross sections) and edit points are included and all curves are set to zero at the point tangent edit and tangent are set to loose to
there's no pre-assumption on how the curve would look like, that's usually what throws-off many of the measurements one would input manually.

I've attached the blank file. if you do open new file in shape3D and browse to this file, shape3D will remember the last place you opened a file from and will default to this file.
I found it a lot easer starting to work from a blank file and add elements as I go.

BTW, I was very generous on the initial size of the blank ;D

I did do a "Save As" and renamed it and the file is still nowhere to be found on my computer. I emailed the company and the guy basically said to "search your computer" for it. Well, I did that before I ever contacted him.

1) I don't understand at all why when I input all of the measurements into the Guideline wizard that the program doesn't convert those numbers into a nice outline. Unless I'm doing something wrong, that isn't the way the free version used to be and I paid for this one.
UPDATE: I got another reply back from the company and they said I have to buy the Pro version to get the program to show the outline. He also said that even then it won't accurately show the outline the way it's supposed to be. This makes no sense at all! How are you supposed to see what the board will look like before you send it off to be CNC'd??

2) So, if you manually pull the lines out then how do you know when it matches the numbers you inputted? How do you match the outline you manually manipulated with the numbers you entered?

When I first opened the paid program I started with a Blank design and entered my numbers and the outline the program produced was seriously the most retarded looking thing on earth. It looked like something I tried to scrawl with a pencil jammed between my toes.

3) What is the difference between the blank file you provided here and the one I'll get if I click "Blank design" in the program? I opened your blank file in the program and inputted my numbers and in the views it still looks like a big block.

4) If I start with an already completed sup design file (maybe one on my hard drive or downloaded from the Shape3D website) and then change the numbers would that give me the outline I want?

I'm asking these questions because I'm going to HAND SHAPE this board and the only reason I want an accurate representation of what it will look like on the program is so I can determine the volume.

Thanks

40
The Shape Shack / Re: Shape 3D Questions
« on: October 05, 2020, 11:07:40 PM »
Thanks but if you click on the Guidelines measurements and then enter all of the measurements and the program does NOT show what the outline of the board is supposed to look like then what's the point in entering the measurements to begin with? This makes no sense.

41
The Shape Shack / Re: Shape 3D Questions
« on: October 05, 2020, 06:37:46 PM »
First, I love Skitch. How good I should that app?

As to the Desktop, it appears itís not using your Mac desktop. Iíd open it and try to navigate using the pulldown menu above instead of the ďDesktopĒ button on the sidebar. This was clearly ported and not a Mac native app so itís likely pointing to some weird place. Note that the dialog box and even the locations look like Windows locations. (With a Linux-looking UI, wth?)

As to your measurements Iím not sure that 15Ē wide 12Ē back from the nose will give you a longboard shape. Donít have a ruler handy but maybe TallDude will pitch in and dig you out of the hole.

I need to suck it up and buy a year and learn this damn app too lol.

It was only $36 for a year.

The two files I created aren't visible on my computer and a search can't find them. And yet, the free board files I downloaded from the Shape3D website (as well as all other Shape3D files I have) are clearly visible on my computer and when I open the program.

The tail is supposed to be 19 5/8" at 12" from the tail and the nose is supposed to be 21 9/16" at 12" from the nose, but clearly that isn't what the different Views in the program are showing me here.
https://www.evernote.com/l/Ag4oG-ldLhZKu4UuPcIVt12RYk_HCKt7MxA


42
The Shape Shack / Shape 3D Questions
« on: October 05, 2020, 06:16:01 PM »
It seems like some of the features that used to be available in the free version of Shape3D aren't there now so I just paid for a one year subscription to Shape 3D. Swear to gawd, this is one of the most unintuitive programs I have ever used.

Here are the issues...

1) I started to make a new design and saved it to my Macbook Pro's desktop. When I open Shape3d and click "Open Existing File" I can see the design file I made previously (8' Roku - Original) but I can't find that file on my desktop or anywhere else on my computer. I can open that file in Shape3d but I can't find that file on my computer unless I open Shape3d. So, where is this file located on my computer? A full search of my computer shows all the other Shape3d files on my computer - just not that one. I did a search on my computer for hidden files and can't find it either.
Here is what I see: https://www.evernote.com/l/Ag5DYRX0LsRAdJ7jXPdd-VKqrB3jF6chT9s

2) When I created this new design I clicked the "Create a new document" button and inputted the measurements I took off of a surf sup I have that I want to make a little longer, wider and thicker. I clicked the Guidelines wizard and inputted the rest of the measurements like tail and nose, thickness, etc. The sup I took the measurements from is only 8' but it has a longboard outline with a wide nose and the design Shape3d is showing me has a narrow pointy nose with a tail that doesn't match the measurements I inputted. As far as the outline goes, the only measurements that came out accurately were the 8' length and width of 28 5/16". The rest of the outline is of a radically different looking board. Most of the measurements in the Master Scale aren't what I originally inputted either. What happened? Why doesn't the outline look anything at all like the measurements I inputted and how can I fix that? In other words, if I type in that I want a 21 9/16" wide nose then why does the Design view (and all other views) in the program show that the board has a pointy nose??
https://www.evernote.com/l/Ag4oG-ldLhZKu4UuPcIVt12RYk_HCKt7MxA

Thanks

43
Technique / Re: Quad Issues on new board
« on: January 29, 2020, 12:24:39 PM »

Magnetawave - My friend has a starboard hyper nut and went to the twin fin and loves it.  Iíve never even attempted twin fins mostly out of fear of spinning out.  Looks like Iíve got to at least try it but need to go with some XL front fins.  My mind canít fully process surfing with one fin in the heel side fin box and not on the other side, but it makes sense like how they build asymmetrical surfboards.

I can totally understand why a wide tail board like the Hyper Nut would work well with twins. I heard Kelly Slater say in an interview that the center fin on his thrusters is a little shorter than the side fins because he rode a lot of twins when he was a kid and liked them. Twins aren't for everybody though so there's no way I'd go twin in big waves, too pivoty, but dang, it was like night and day the way it transformed my 8-6. (How Mark Richards could rip at BIG Sunset on twins is mind blowing, but then that's Mark Richards.) I hardly ever experimented with fins on shortboard surfboards, but with these sup beasts, even relatively short high performance ones, if it doesn't work the first couple times the way it was configured when I bought it then it's time to experiment. When I get a board with only three boxes I'm kinda relieved in that I don't have as many options. My 9-2 Sunova longboard sup came with three FCS fin plug sets which really narrowed down the options. Fortunately Sunova nailed it so it rides great out of the box as a thruster. Hmmm, having said that, maybe I'll try big twins in it sometime. Damn, there I go again! :-\

44
Technique / Re: Quad Issues on new board
« on: January 29, 2020, 12:08:15 PM »
@ magentawave

Where I sup surf on the upper Texas coast, we don't have large waves. Most of the time our waves are tiny to small waves.

Now I define what we have which are:

Tiny - ankle to knee high
Small - knee to waist high
Medium - waist to chest high
Large - chest to head high
Big - over head high

With a 4 fin quad setup; you gain Speed, but you lose Drive. With a 3 fin thruster setup (2 +1); you gain Drive, but you lose Speed.

For me with my 11'1" board, many times I'm sup surfing in Tiny to Small waves. I need a 4 fin quad setup to give me Speed because these Tiny to Small waves aren't going to give me lots of Drive because these waves are not fast moving.

With a 3 fin thruster setup in these types of waves above, the large 9" fin is going to produce too much "drag" and slow the board down more than if I'm using a 4 fin quad setup. So without the Speed, the board will not have the Drive especially last year with me at 144 pounds riding it.

With Medium to Large waves, the 4 fin quad setup gives my board a lot of Speed, but at the bottom of the wave to make the turn, this fin setup makes the tail end of the board to "skid out" and people call this a "skatey" feeling.

The 5 fin setup (quad + 2.25" nubster) in these types of waves gives me Speed, but at the bottom of these types of waves, the nubster gives me Drive so the tail end of the board does not skid out and allows me to turn the board, either left or right, easily. So for me, in these Medium to Large waves; two 5", two 4" and one 2.25" is the perfect fin sizes for me in a 5 fin setup.

So you have to look at the size of the waves you would "normally" encounter and pick your fin height accordingly for a 5 fin setup.

BTW, since you've seen my 5 fin setup, I found a picture of my board so you can see it's narrow pin tail for an 11'1" board and I hope I can get this message to post without getting timed out.

Twins shine in the surf you described! So fast. It's amazing how fins completely change the way a board rides (for better or worse). It's worth trying the big twins with little nubster combo's.

If your quad lacks drive then you might try bigger fins, or at least bigger front fins, and maybe pop a small fin in the center box.

I'll take a photo of what I did and post it here...

45
Technique / Re: Quad Issues on new board
« on: January 26, 2020, 08:42:27 PM »
I really liked twins back in the day before thrusters obliterated them and I loved quads on short surfboards but quads on high performance sups for me always feels like I've got too much fin in the back. Great for drivey down the line stuff but too stiff to break a line. This issue is exacerbated by the fact that most shapers put the cluster too far back and/or put too much space between the front quads and the back quads. (Joe Blair seems to get it right though.) So, after trying a million different combo's on my 8-6 round tail, everything clicked when I put big ass 6" MR 78 originals in the front boxes + a nubster in the heel side back box (calms down the pivotyness of the backside turn) + another nubster in the center box. (People always say "you're missing a fin.") That combo made the board feel alive and 3 pounds lighter. I went through the exact same issue on my newly acquired 8-2 RNB using the quads that came with it so I'm trying a similar twin/nubster combo on it. Unfortunately no one makes the big 6" MR 78's any longer so I had to compromise with slightly smaller twins.

P.S. I haven't had this RNB in good surf yet so time will tell if I can make it work the way I'm hoping it will. So far the rails seem too beefy (like Starboard rails), the tomo-ish tail feels too wide and it doesn't have enough rocker.

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