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Messages - magentawave

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16
Thanks for replying, everyone. Previously I could only find a couple images for what looked to be a similar model so I really appreciate it!

One of those pages showed that Starboard had a 9-1 Pro Wave for the same year with 127 liters that looks really nice. Man, wish I could find one of those.


P.S. I wasnít getting notifications, so had to make a change in my settings.

17
Super fun and light BIG GUY SURF SUP stand up paddle board. Triple wings makes it turn like a surfboard and its super STABLE when paddling because of the full nose. (I weigh about 200.)

8í x 29 1/2 x 4 1/2Ē x 114.5 liters. XLNT condition with no dings. Super light and strong (1.5 lb EPS foam glassed w/ epoxy resin with 5.7 oz carbon knee patches).

Super grippy FCS deckpad (the best!). I rode it as a twin so it has two Futures rail boxes and three FCS plugs for a center trailer fin if you want. Set of Futures keel fins are included.

Selling because I got another like it but 2Ē shorter.

Only $795

P.S. Unfortunately the forum isnít allowing the full images to be seen.🤪

18
General Discussion / Know Anything About This 10-3 Starboard SUP?
« on: May 19, 2023, 02:35:17 PM »
Does anyone know anything about this 10-3 x 29 Starboard SUP model? I am wondering about the year, model, construction, weight? It has a nice outline and isnít crazy wide like most of the long SUPís are now so Iím wondering how it surfs too?

I have looked all over the internet and the only image or pages Iíve seen shows something with a similar outline that was called a Surf Pro (or Pro Surf) and had that brushed carbon thing going on. It might have been a 10-2 though.  (Circa 2011-2012, I think.) Oh, and it didnít have that funky candy cane looking deck pad!

Thanks🤙🏼🏄🏻‍♂️👍

19
Dual layer 6-4 but only lap one layer. 1 layer of S won't do it.

Bag it.

If you want lighter, don't hot coat it. Maybe fill coat it, lightly, maybe. Then use micro balloon paste, squeegee on. Fill it and light sand it til the pinholes are gone. Primer, paint. Will be ugly AF, light as hell.

It isn't a longboard, we will never be cool. It's time we quit building boards like they did in '65.

1) How will the strength be (dents & dings) when filling the laminate weave with microballoon goop vs a straight epoxy "hot coat"?

2) Have you ever done that without paint and on a clear board? If so, how did it look?

Looks great. But you get to pick the color. I'd go dark.

For ding resistance ditch the carbon, go all glass. (if you want to argue go to Swaylock's lol) But seriously, carbon isn't going to be ding resistant no matter what unless you cover it with a lot of glass and then... why did we buy that expensive carbon? Stiff breaks, flexy bends. Carbon is stiff.

Maybe it's just semantics but technically we don't do "hot coats" since we're using epoxy. After laminating I do one fill coat and I'm done. Paint adds weight so it seems like one fill coat would be lighter than a coat of microballoon goop followed by paint. Right?

20
I think the compression strength referred to - is the pressure ding resistance of S- glass being superior to E glass. That usually shows on the bottom of the board as how did I get that kind of damage.  I like a carbon strip on the rails over the fiberglass to keep dings to a minimum. It also feels harder when you hit it with the paddle blade.
My Hobie RAW with the innerga grid has aged well and is on the lighter side

A few years ago I bought a custom RAW 9' longboard style sup from a guy used that still looked new. Fun board and looked super cool with Innegra and carbon but it was scary fragile. It was really meant for pro's that get free boards which is why I think the guy sold it before his $2700.00 board was worth nothing. I eventually broke it.

A simple and cheap way to save your rails is to put car door edge protector on the edges of your paddles blade. Would I use car door edge protector on my paddles if I was competing and got free equipment? Nope.

21
How much does the board weigh?
Pat Rawson uses S cloth on his boards for compression stength:
https://paddlewoo.podbean.com/e/pat-rawson-a-legendary-shapers-thoughts-on-sup-design-mo-freitas-and-the-future-of-the-sport/
S cloth won't save any weight, but make the compression strength 20% stronger.
To save weight, you could do one layer on the bottom, but keep two layers on the top.  I would recommend William "Stretch" Reidel's glassing schedule.  One 6 oz glass on the bottom.  One 6 oz glass on the top.  Then another 4 oz glass on top.  He explains the lay up here:
http://www.stretchboards.com/news/2015/06/22/cft-construction-unique-lamination-process/
I would use S cloth for the one bottom layer, and use S cloth for at least one of the top layers.
https://www.daveyskysurfboards.com/blog/general-surf/surfboard-glassing-schedules-weight-vs-strength/
Duraglass 6+4/ 6.
I like your carbon stringer.

You asked before how much my board weighs but I forgot to answer. I don't have a scale now so can only go by feel when carrying. I know it's a little heavier than I would prefer due to the schedule (6-4 + 6-4 + 6 deck patch + all layers were wrapped around the rails + 6 oz carbon around the knees + carbon "stringer.")  I will find a scale and weigh it so I can compare it with my new board that I start glassing next week.

I watched that Stretch video and the other links. Placing the 4 oz on the deck on the bias for better flex and resistance to breaking was very interesting. Do you know if it matters which layer on the deck goes down first? 6 oz linear or 4 oz on the bias?

22
How much does the board weigh?
Pat Rawson uses S cloth on his boards for compression stength:
https://paddlewoo.podbean.com/e/pat-rawson-a-legendary-shapers-thoughts-on-sup-design-mo-freitas-and-the-future-of-the-sport/
S cloth won't save any weight, but make the compression strength 20% stronger.
To save weight, you could do one layer on the bottom, but keep two layers on the top.  I would recommend William "Stretch" Reidel's glassing schedule.  One 6 oz glass on the bottom.  One 6 oz glass on the top.  Then another 4 oz glass on top.  He explains the lay up here:
http://www.stretchboards.com/news/2015/06/22/cft-construction-unique-lamination-process/
I would use S cloth for the one bottom layer, and use S cloth for at least one of the top layers.
https://www.daveyskysurfboards.com/blog/general-surf/surfboard-glassing-schedules-weight-vs-strength/
Duraglass 6+4/ 6.
I like your carbon stringer.

I will check out the links when I have time tomorrow. Thank you.

Does an increase in "compression" strength translate to more resistance to dents and dings?

23
Dual layer 6-4 but only lap one layer. 1 layer of S won't do it.

Bag it.

If you want lighter, don't hot coat it. Maybe fill coat it, lightly, maybe. Then use micro balloon paste, squeegee on. Fill it and light sand it til the pinholes are gone. Primer, paint. Will be ugly AF, light as hell.

It isn't a longboard, we will never be cool. It's time we quit building boards like they did in '65.

1) How will the strength be (dents & dings) when filling the laminate weave with microballoon goop vs a straight epoxy "hot coat"?

2) Have you ever done that without paint and on a clear board? If so, how did it look?

24
Boat builders overlap their laminates too.

Well, like someone else here said, my concern is that overlapping the cloth will make a hard spot thus potentially making that section vulnerable for breaking and I'm concerned about the flex too. So, I guess I'll stick with using single pieces of cloth like I've always done.

Thanks for all of your input! I really appreciate it. :)

P.S. I started a new thread asking for suggestions on what materials and glassing schedule I should use for my next board.
https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=38106.new#new

25
My current board is 7'-10" x 29 1/4" x 4 1/4" x 114.5 liters. I like it but it's a little heavier than I would prefer so I want the next one to be lighter.

Foam was 1.5 lb EPS. I used 6 and 4 oz E on the top and bottom with a 6 oz E patch that extends from the tail to in front of where I stand while paddling. Excluding the 6 oz E deck patch, ALL 4 layers of E cloth were wrapped around the rail. I also put a 5.7 oz carbon patch on the deck in the area for when I occasionally knee paddle. The blank was stringerless but I used 3" wide carbon tape as a stringer.

The board is always in a bag when not surfing so damage incurred happens while surfing. I want my new board to be lighter without it being disposable so I'm open to suggestions, please.

For example; could a single layer of 4 or 6 oz S replace the 6 and 4 E that's on the top and bottom? Should I NOT wrap all 4 layers around the rails? Lose the carbon stringer and carbon deck patch?

NOTE: I don't want to vacuum bag or replace the regular cloth with carbon cloth.

Thanks! :)


26
So when you do that overlap, the piece going on top is going to get sanded where it steps down on the edge of the bottom piece, creating a weak line in the middle of the board where most strength is needed.

Also, making boards is hard enough with good materials.  Also the glass is the cheapest part of a very expensive process.  Trying to save money there is unbelievably shortsighted.

Use those piece for foot patches in top of a solid base.

What if I did what Tarquin said?

"Try sanding a little trough in the area you will do the overlap. It doesn't take much. Lay the first layer down and wait for it to tack."

27
Well, that'll save me from wasting a bunch of cloth and money too. Thanks!

28
My last board was cut in a day and then gathered dust in the glassers shop for 6 months. He did  nothing on it and was evading my texts and calls so I finally rescued it and took it to another glasser and then he flaked out! (Is it the freaking resin fumes??) Flakes aside, even the best guys are still busier than they have ever been so it's nothing to wait 4 to 6 months for a board now. I don't want to wait that long. Also, I don't want to drop close to $2000 on a professionally made board that I may or may not like and then lose a $1000 when I sell it to get another that I will hopefully like after waiting months for that one. Aaargh.

However, since starting this thread I've been recollecting all the stuff I went through last year (mentioned above) so I've been re-thinking my options. My current design is the culmination of many boards I had before and it works well, and especially in the pocket, but I want to squeeze more speed and maneuverability out of it. Fortunately, I had that one designed on Shape 3DX so it's easy to make changes.

So, this is what I have decided; I'll have Brando at Rough House in O'side cut it again and I'll glass it myself like I did my last three. This way if I don't like it or just want to make some changes then I can at least get all of my money back when I sell it later. (Maybe I'll start a board building thread for my next one.)

Thanks for the suggestions about Blaine Chambers and Dave Daum. They are both GREAT shapers and if time or money wasn't an issue then I would consider Erik at Portal first and then Dave Daum since he's so close to me in Carlsbad.

I would still love to see a Portal Barra or Phantom but assume most are on the east coast.

29
8,000 followers and posts in May. Not sure what you're looking at. He's just a foiler now.

https://instagram.com/the.progression.project?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Oh, ha, I was looking at this https://www.instagram.com/portalsurfdesigns/ which hasn't been updated since November of 2019. Thanks.

30
I have lots of 6 oz and 4 oz E cloth (42Ē wide) leftover from previous boards that I am wondering if I can use on my next board. For example, instead of using one piece of cloth to glass the entire deck like usual, could I glass it with two of the shorter leftover pieces? Obviously I would overlap the two pieces and could hide the overlap under the deckpad area so it would be less visible. (The board is 8í x 29 1/4Ē.)

Would that work ok or would it create a weird hard spot and mess up the flex?

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