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Messages - blackeye

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 33
31
The Shape Shack / Re: Hollow 14ft sup
« on: May 19, 2020, 07:20:50 AM »
The board is looking very nice. BTW, that kevlar stripe would look awesome if you were to use it instead of carbon.

How did you get that rounded shape between the rail and bottom near the nose? It looked like you laid up panels on a flat surface. Were they flexible enough to bend over the frames? I would have expected some sharp transitions like a hard chine.


32
makes total sense, like a when a plane turns 180deg from into the wind to with the wind it will need to substantially increase its ground speed in order to maintain the same stall speed.

An airplane doesn’t really care which way the wind is blowing.

Agreed, when it's in the air. And same for a board or foil in current.

But there must be something else: maybe it is the lag in needing to accelerate the mass of board and rider in transitioning between up and downwind; maybe it is the foil's movement through the relatively opposite motion of the turbulence Bill describes.

33
My very old Starboard Touring 14 is a bit of a carbon queen, ie look at it wrong and the carbon skin gets punctured. It's no good on the foredeck of a sailboat, and it gets bumped and jostled from other boards while launching it from a boat. I haven't ever loaded it up for touring, but I bet I'd find out pretty quick that thin carbon is not a great material for dragging over rocky oyster beds.

Edit: Like Pono I have a line across two tie downs and use it the same way. I also use it to clip a small dry bag and water bottle. The supplied elastic was useless as a tie down - one wave and... yard sale.

34
Random / Re: Heart damage and Covid-19
« on: May 05, 2020, 04:03:40 PM »

35
The Shape Shack / Re: New hotwire rail and bevel cutter
« on: May 01, 2020, 12:16:46 PM »
Blackeye you have to have a way to tighten it up on it heats, or maintain tension.

Sorry, my post was a bit vague. My straight line cutter is tensioned well with a coil spring between the top uprights. That works well.

For the sag, I was referring to the ~~~~ shape I made in heavier gauge nichrome wire. Ockam's Razor took over in my attempt to be succinct. The shape doesn't allow it to be tensioned. The real problem was inconsistent cuts using the shape. That was a from many variables: It took alot of voltage to get it hot enough (which made me apprehensive), lower cutting power caused drag and misshapen cuts, and I didn't have a good guide system. I ran out of patience and lost interest in the project.

My intention was to recreate corrugated cardboard, but in carbon top, bottom and middle and foam in the voids. I figured that would make a great standing area composite and for an unrelated secret project (dormant for now). Also, honeycomb does this already.

Talldude - I have one of those. It didn't work for my needs.

36
The Shape Shack / Re: New hotwire rail and bevel cutter
« on: April 30, 2020, 11:57:25 AM »
Nice S'cowboy.
I have about 4-5 different homemade hot wire tools.
My favorite is one inspired by Dave Daum. It rides on the bottom of the blank and makes a beveled cut on the top rail. Works good for the start from scratch EPS stuff I do.

It would be awesome to see these tools.

My single successful tool is a cobbled together contraption in an H shape with a tensioning spring between the top posts and the hot wire on the bottom. I use stainless fishing leader as the wire.

I tried to make a tool to cut a corrugated shape, but it didn't work out. Soon as it got hot enough it sagged despite using heavy wire.

37
Travel, Trips, Destinations / Re: Paddling UK canals?
« on: January 17, 2020, 12:12:43 PM »
I recommend highly "Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog)" by Jerome K. Jerome. He recounts a two-week boating holiday on the Thames from Kingston upon Thames to Oxford and back to Kingston. Yes, it's old, but remarkably fresh and funny.

38
I like the patterns from the repurposed sailcloth. Reminds me of Brian Jungen's sculptures using plastic chairs and Nikes.

39
The Shape Shack / Re: How to fix foil mast
« on: December 22, 2019, 09:39:52 AM »
I'd never have thought to use a plastic food bucket as a resin trap. Great inexpensive idea.

40
Just have to keep it lightweight.

Maybe efficiency gains would mean you will get the same lift in a smaller wing. That said, it has dawned on me that a foil's high pressure side seems to take care of itself. It just isn't that important to manage compared to attached low pressure flow. (Collective "Well, duh" from the gallery?) So gains from a second skin might not be worthwhile.

My little epiphany is a bit highjacky. Back to business: Your wing is awesome, and I commend the depth of thought you have put into it.

Note: Edited for increased clarity.

41
I am intrigued that these wings have a low pressure laminar surface, but a big gaping nothing for to attach flow on the high pressure side. Now that SUPeter has shown that these things can be homebuilt, can someone attach a skin to the high pressure side?

I was watching a paraglider static test his new rig. It didn't have an inflatable leading edge, but it did have mesh vents on the high pressure side that kept the two sides apart. I would think that could be done with these wings. Would the efficiency increase enough to justify more complexity, cost and weight?

42
Random / Re: WTFAYLT
« on: October 31, 2019, 10:27:30 AM »

43
Gear Talk / Re: Echo Composites 18' touring - good deal?
« on: October 11, 2019, 10:25:41 AM »
I used U-ship to bring a truck home. I had a deadline so it was a bit nail biting when the first bids came in and they were high. It was a Dutch-auction style where competing bidders lower their bids against each other. They can withdraw suddenly which is alarming and frustrating.

In the end it worked out great. The shippers like it because if they can fill in idle time or avoid deadheading home.

44
Foil SUP / Re: Fatboy Wing
« on: October 03, 2019, 11:20:40 AM »



Regarding the transition along the leading edge: If you moved the cut wings a bit towards the tail, then rotated them so they swept back a bit more, you could have no interruption of the leading edge profile. The spacer core would have to be a bit wedge-shaped. There might be a downside if the anhedral tiplets don't present themselves to the flow appropriately after the rotation.

45
SUP General / Re: SUP Paddle Repair attempt
« on: October 01, 2019, 11:50:47 AM »
I like https://sollercomposites.com . He has remnants on a clearance section at https://www.sollercomposites.com/Remnants.html

I see he has a piece of 3K Carbon Triax for USD 9.00. Thats probably a bit overkill, but it would beef up that tip to make bulletproof.

Or you could get some of the 6 oz UNI for USD 8.00. Make sure you align the fibre up and down (parallel with the shaft) and not across the blade. Lots of leftovers for another project.

Or you could buy first quality 50" 3K Carbon 2x2 Twill (menu item #1 or #2) for USD 9.99 a foot. Or 38" menu item #3 for USD 8.99/ft. Buy a foot of it, but you'd use only two 4x12" pieces for one layer/side. Since you have lots, do 2 or even 3 layers and skip the fibreglass (unless you have it already and it is tougher for impact than carbon). https://www.sollercomposites.com/Carbon-3K-Fabrics.html

Don't buy off Amazon as Soller is similarly priced but you know where its coming from.

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