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Messages - headmount
16
« on: August 07, 2022, 08:59:01 PM »
Has anyone tried this 1310 PNG foil? 51" span, 2080 sq cms area, 7.3" chord, AR 8.53
Obviously it's an U-2 or an albatross, depending which age you group you belong in. Paddling with it might hit the foil. Winging and dock starting?
Some kid did a 17 min. dock start pump. There's a video but it's irritating with fast forward and horrible soundtrack. They shoulda shot it with a drone. Anyway, it looks interesting but I wonder about the reality. It is promoted with use with a high mod carbon mast.
17
« on: August 02, 2022, 10:20:59 PM »
I have tested masts with prototype front wings so massive, they never went to production. Tested with 19mm thick aluminum masts versus the stiffest possible tapered carbon mast prototypes.
These massive front wings truly expose the difference in rider feel between a mast flexing lower versus higher.
So rider feel is number one to me, after testing at the extremes.
Could you tell us the result of your tests? Axis has a new 1310 with a 51" span. The 'Wake Thief' was saying, 'for the 1310, the tip deflection in roll direction (bending of mast) was about 20% less for high mod carbon vs aluminum, and tip deflection in yaw direction (torsion of mast) was about 30% less for aluminum vs high mod carbon.' I assume he's referring to the Axis 19m aluminum. Is the Cedrus alum better than the Axis 19mm alum in (roll) tip deflection? Sounds like King Solomon's choice. Deflection or yaw, which is more important?
18
« on: July 28, 2022, 04:12:35 PM »
hello all, Kyle with Project Cedrus here. I value forums and would rather spend my time clarifying confusion or answering questions, than my money on marketing or google ads.
Regarding sealing the mast: I tried closed-cell spray foams and they did not last. I have also seen through experience that most aluminum masts will lose there seal, suffer from water ingress, and even worse, the water won't come out! So I made the decision not to seal the aluminum mast, unless I had a year+ to do proper R&D on a seal that lasts, and let clients address water ingress if it is important to them. Also keep in mind, adding $20 in labor/materials to seal would add 40+ to the final price. That's just unfortunately how it works when you get involved in retail. Finally, I couldn't open myself up to warranty issues by promising a sealed mast. I'm just being transparent. Most brands have reasonably high warranty rates, and thanks to a low cost, can afford to replace a bent aluminum mast or two. I can't afford to replace masts, aluminum or carbon, and fortunately I don't have to. I can tell you for certain that it actually costs more to install my stainless helicoils in the aluminum mast, than it would to buy a complete extrusion from China. But I believe in supporting our community with meaningful manufacturing jobs.
As for stiffness, it is not in the eye of the beholder. It is 100% scientific, engineering, objective data. I have tried to explain the proper way to characterize stiffness of a mast, but Adrian at Axis will not listen. And I only use his name because he is open in his latest Blue Planet interview about his feelings of Project Cedrus. Hanging a weight at the end of the mast is not a proper test for mast stiffness. It is a good way to assess the strength/stiffness OF THE MOUNT. The mast is subject to a constant bending moment when being ridden, which if you are not an engineer, you may not understand. Here is just one link if you want to dabble in structural engineering: https://www.constructupdate.com/what-is-shear-force-and-bending-moment-diagram/ The cantilever test that Axis does puts a maximum moment at the mount, with a decreasing moment throughout the length of the mast. It will give you inaccurate direction regarding the actual stiffness of the mast. It's also the main reason so many brands taper masts, because they don't think it impacts stiffness. But it does. Properly testing is not complicated and does not require fancy equipment. I showed Devon at Wake Thief how to properly test bending stiffness of a mast here: We didn't address torsion at this time, but in other videos, he has.
I can see how this would easily result in confusion and differing opinions on stiffness. If Axis is using a different test method, they will have different results. Anyone who's ridden a NoLimitz mast has told me it's not as stiff as Cedrus. Is it thinner? yes. Is it lighter? yes. But it is not stiffer or stronger, partly because they too test incorrectly, as evidenced by their own website. I started this project in large part because I was fed up with the marketing in sports equipment, when brands make false claims, especially related to Cedrus, it boils my blood. I am setting up a proper testing procedure and plan to be a guest on Blue Planet to continue showing the world how to design and build a stiff mast as I have on my blog since 2018...
Thank you, Kyle @ Project Cedrus with lots of skin in the game
Excuse me Kyle but I watched Devon's video a few times looking for a conclusion from him that his aluminum mast was not as stiff as yours and that there was a performance disparity. But I failed to find it. Did I miss something? Devon's conclusion seemed to say he could tell no difference in performance. Did Devon's test qualify in the way you would do it? I do like the soft LE & TE. He did too.
19
« on: July 19, 2022, 08:25:58 PM »
On the 1099 with 375P tail. I switched from a 90 cm mast to 68 cm and immediately noticed the reduced stability. This was in yaw (the board wouldn't paddle straight), roll (much more wobbly), and PITCH - THE RIG WOULD PUMP
So aside from the attributes of the 1099, would it be reasonable to conclude that a longer mast reduces yaw? And reduces roll? But the shorter mast pumps better with reduced pitch stability? I've been using a 22.5" mast (or 57 cms) and have been yawing like crazy. Thought it was just me. Or is it?
20
« on: May 29, 2022, 09:18:39 AM »
I'll see how well rigid handles work once I get to try my D-lab.
D-Lab?? Is that for kidney stones?
21
« on: May 28, 2022, 11:00:00 PM »
I've been switching between my old 95 KeNalu and a Quickblade Ono Ava 105 i got about two months ago. The 105 is a beast and I've been very careful not to go crazy with it until I get my shoulders up to par. I can go crazy with the 95 as it seems like a salad fork in comparison. Also doing lots of shoulder work with dumbbells. Everything I do now is like climbing Everest, so I'm careful. Finally learning how to be that way at 71.
22
« on: April 25, 2022, 05:30:30 PM »
Is that an anhedral tail?
23
« on: April 16, 2022, 03:25:32 PM »
Thanks DC SURF. Good input. The 1120 is what I'm dealing with.
24
« on: April 14, 2022, 12:28:57 PM »
Axis makes a 500 rear wing with dihedral and one with anhedral. I basically understand what each does with an airplane wing but wondered how it translate to foiling. If you have a dihedral 500, I'd like to know your experience with that as well.
25
« on: February 28, 2022, 03:10:41 PM »
Here's 13 days later and also the immediate post sew repair.
26
« on: February 28, 2022, 03:04:18 PM »
The head, therefore a helmet, seems most critical in a worse case. But I recently had to go under white water after a previous wave knocked me off my board. My board seemed to be in a safe position, off to the side of me. But I always have my eyes open underwater and like something possessed, my foil moved laterally at me. I put up my hand which was holding my paddle, to block it. Result, the paddle broke in two and somehow the outside edge of my pinky finger got sliced about 3/4 through. Spurting blood out the top of it, so I ripped off my long sleeve and tied it around the base, which slowed it down to a slow seep. Then I used the lower half of the paddle to get in. Great sew job at the ER and it's healing well. But now I've been looking at gloves. Kevlar lined fishing gloves. Because like the head or ribs, your hand is fairly vulnerable. And even though your pinky is the least of all your fingers, for someone like me who makes a living with my hands, well it has been a bummer. These are fishing gloves I've found that might fit the bill but anyone know of something better?
27
« on: January 09, 2022, 12:01:31 AM »
I borrowed a 5M from MR. Problem was I couldn't pump it up with my Duotone pump. So I harvested a fitting off a Board Rider (BR) and it worked on the ORodeo. Here's the two fittings side by side attached to the Duo pump. In 1st pic the OR is on the right and doesn't insert itself deep enough into the Duo pump interface. The reason is a fraction sized 'step' on the inside of the pump interface. (2nd pic) The third pic shows the shaft length on the threads. Pitch on threads seems the same and it screwed in well but shaft length on OR fitting (on right) is longer than the BR fitting. The wing inflated with no noticeable leaks (or hisses) but for intense use I wonder if that thread shaft length matters?? I pumped the strut up to about 8 PSI. It says 12 PSI but I wanted to make sure about the fittings before I did. The LE I also inflated to about 8 (the duotone pump only has numbers to 7) Flew it in my yard and light was my first impression. We're in a light to no wind pattern right now but just trying to get it ready when wind returns.
28
« on: December 28, 2021, 09:16:19 AM »
My wife has noticed one feature of the A-Glide that is particular to her. She has mentioned it several times after a session. Harness hook-in is way easier. The power is so smooth and steady, she never has an oh-shit, almost did a wheelie moment, trying to hook-in. Being 116 lbs, this issue probably doesn’t apply to many others.
Which inflation pump do you use for the A-glide? 12 lbs is alot of PSI
29
« on: December 21, 2021, 09:06:28 PM »
#2 decide on the tail angle - generally this will set up your ideal turning radius, more angle for tighter turns. Also more angle gives you a more low end grunt for pumping. Less angle has less drag but doesn't turn as tightly.
More angle, meaning raising front or back screw on the tail? Or to put it another way, leading edge angled more up or leading edge angled more down.
more angle means more downforce with the tail, trailing edge raised, leading edge lowered.
Thanks. That's much clearer
30
« on: December 21, 2021, 08:23:52 PM »
4 different adjustments all do different things
#1 figure out where you want your foot position - this should be based on how the board floats and takes off on a wave #2 decide on the tail angle - generally this will set up your ideal turning radius, more angle for tighter turns. Also more angle gives you a more low end grunt for pumping. Less angle has less drag but doesn't turn as tightly. #3 move the foil fore/aft to balance the forces on your feet #4 optional: baseplate shim if the board is riding nose up or nose down
More angle, meaning raising front or back screw on the tail? Or to put it another way, leading edge angled more up or leading edge angled more down.
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