Messages

76

Sessions / Typhoon #10 (Haishen)

« on: September 05, 2020, 03:01:49 AM »

A short Insta clip from Thursday with no wind and the first front-runners arriving. Then some pics and a short clip from today. Swell today is running 18' at 17". This hits the outside reef where we were, but it's too windy to surf out there (third reef), not that I would, anyway...LOL  Then it reforms and bends into where we surf it, usually 12-15 feet on the face in the peak. You have to really pick the wave, but you can catch that on a chip, where it will break a little, and get you into it. The it ledges out on the inside bowl, and slabs if the tide is right, usually around 10-12 feet on the face. Pretty bumpy, but super fun. 

Hate how the GoPro makes everything seem small... First pic (POV) is the same wave and same time as the fourth pic (from shore).

Super fun, and caught a lot of waves this day. Surfed six hours on Thursday, six hours on Friday, and then four hours in the heavier stuff this morning. Legs are DONE! Board is the Blue Planet All Good with Futures GL2 thruster, and Mink System diffusers. Board was a little wide, and on hard turns at serious speed, I found myself wanting my Ninja Warrior or Pocket Knife.

   

77

Sessions / Re: Dawn Patrol at Doheny

« on: August 31, 2020, 03:29:31 AM »

Sweet! Thanks for sharing.

78

Sessions / Re: Too long ...

« on: August 31, 2020, 03:22:59 AM »

Great clips J. What camera position and settings are you using?

79

SUP General / Re: Man cave photos

« on: August 25, 2020, 05:37:58 PM »

The lift uses a hydraulic ram on one side, and a serious chain instead of cable. The chain run is under the tray. Makes it a pain when using a transmission jack, but a very sturdy design.

My racing days are over, but I still build a few engines for people. Mu stuff is all hybrid/electric these days :-) 

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SUP General / Re: Man cave photos

« on: August 24, 2020, 05:15:36 AM »

I used to have a car problem...

81

Sessions / Re: Longboard and alarm clock

« on: August 08, 2020, 02:33:16 AM »

"my bar is low for happy..." LOL

Nice J.

82

Technique / Re: Dropping In with Strong Offshores

« on: August 06, 2020, 07:45:42 PM »

Will have to try the kneeling approach, as demonstrated so well by okiwild.

FWIW, I will very rarely paddle in on the knees these days. It does get you under the wind, and you can pick up a wave better, especially if it's like 15kts offshore, but it's hard to pop up in the right place.

Your weight has to be forward, so when you pop up, you're usually well forward on the board, requiring a quick move to the back or you'll pearl (in hollow waves), or the board just won't turn because you're standing too far forward, feet in the wrong place, etc. In more critical waves, it was just a mess. You're much later to the rear of the board vs. just paddling in standing up.

So I just started taking out small boards (8'x28"x100L) and learning to paddle them in poor conditions. Sitting in position, and learning to pop up and start digging was way more effective. In strong wind, I find myself in a low crouch, and choking way up on the paddle.

It was very frustrating spending most of the time in the water  but worked out better in the end.

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Gear Talk / Re: Anyone using XM Surf More leash?

« on: August 05, 2020, 07:17:29 PM »

Used XM years ago when prone. Great quality. Probably start using them again as they carry the Made in USA logo, meaning even the materials must be sourced in the US. $40 for a leash is a stretch, though, so maybe I'll sell off my stash of Dakine Kainui :-)

84

SUP General / Re: AppFastTrack 50 Meter Sprint

« on: July 27, 2020, 05:02:24 PM »

Local island boy Rai Taguchi is sitting in the #2 spot at 11.12mph/18.9km/h. I think he's 16. Pretty good surfer, too.

85

Sessions / Re: The Streak Continues

« on: July 27, 2020, 02:17:54 AM »

Nice video. Nice waves to sup surf.

As for hurricanes (typhoons where you live), we had Hurricane Hannah come ashore on the Texas coast just south (below) the city of Corpus Christi late Saturday afternoon (July 25th).

Thanks NW. We always hope for the storms, and at the same time, hope they stay off shore, and do no damage.

Nice to have knees!
Good to see a tight tuck and cover!

If I tried that,
first.... they wouldn't bend enough to get half that low
second.... I'd never get back up 

Keep tuck'n... your Typhoon will come!

HA! They're not what they used to be! I've damaged the ligaments through a lifetime of showing off in the surf. Can still bend, but snaps are in the past. I've found that yoga...the DDP kind...has really helped.

Green room! ... Well almost. Too much foam. Sure looks fun though. We got nada waves right now. <1'

Yea, just a little too small for a big board, and very short period keeps them from really opening up. The reality is, I'm just packing it, trying to figure out where the best place to hide the accessories is :-)

That wave looks great at all sizes Okiwild,  I will have to come to visit you one day! 
Waves are picking up here on Oahu from approaching hurricane Douglas.  It looks like it turned north a bit so it should not be too bad for us on Oahu anyway.

The second this COVID lifts, I'm on a plane to come spend a couple of weeks with you guys and gals. One of your good customers (Cory) has made it here and contacted me. He's kind of locked down right now, but we're going to get him squared away as soon as he can get out.

86

Sessions / The Streak Continues

« on: July 25, 2020, 08:56:38 PM »

The first time in recorded history that we will have no typhoons before August 1. Still, the normal pulse of the Pacific keeps the spirits up. Too bad it's not quite big enough to sneak under the lip. Won't keep me from trying, though 

Blue Planet carbon NP10 with Futures F6 Alpha bites, and a Blue Planet 4.6" Honeycomb center fin. Love this board, even though it's not much use under the lip.

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Sessions / Re: July Dawn Patrol

« on: July 23, 2020, 05:36:22 PM »

Too bad about the board choice... looks like no fun at all   

Your vids are affecting how I view the world...  Okinawa now is all about outer reefs : )

LOL. There are loads of "inner reefs" as well. But only if you like surfing with a lot...and I mean a lot, of other surfers. Also lots of coastline with limited access. Close-in reef, but you can just go for a paddle and get away from it all.

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Sessions / Re: July Dawn Patrol

« on: July 23, 2020, 05:33:06 PM »

Sweeet Oki... ripping as usual.
Pretty cool that you have waves 365!

Yea, but that doesn't mean that the wind always cooperates ;-)

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Sessions / July Dawn Patrol

« on: July 23, 2020, 02:27:57 AM »

This summer has been ridiculous. Our area of the Pacific averages 26 Typhoons per year, and here we are at the end of July, and I think there was one...months ago...when it's usually way to early for storms. So our small wave streak continues. It's been that waist to shoulder pulse from the Ocean all summer, with a few head-high days. Even then, I'm grateful that we have something to surf almost 365.

Smokin' sunrise this morning. Out at a local (to me) outer reef break. Joined by about five surfer friends this morning. They have a little boat that makes the commute easier for them :-)  Board is a Blue Planet Pocket Knife 8'8"x29"x116L with Futures F6 honeycomb thruster fin setup. Wrong board this morning. I thought it was going to be bigger, and more hollow, so I brought this board and the Pocket Friend 8'2"x28"x100L. These are sick boards in hollow waves, with the pulled in nose, and rocker template, but the All Good, with it's much wider nose comes up on plane, and glides in the fat sections much better. Currently have a 9 board quiver (soon going up to 12 boards), and I always manage to grab the least optimal one... 

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Sessions / Re: Amazing sunrise on the Jersey Shore this morning

« on: July 23, 2020, 02:16:42 AM »

Great pic. Put that on the wall.