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Messages - OkiWild
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 20
31
« on: February 07, 2021, 05:25:51 PM »
Sun is back out. I get so many comments about the stupid mask, it's ridiculous. Before all this covid BS, people simply assumed (rightly) it's for the sun. Now they automatically assume it's for covid...when you're out in the water...surfing...alone... Like the whole world went and caught a case of the stupid. Skin cancer is real. Have to deal with it all the time now, because the first 3 decades surfing, I was dumb. I'm still dumb, but smarter about four hours on the ocean at UV index 7 in February /rant So anyway, this is a remote point break. 20 minute paddle by SUP. Only left. It gets big and nasty. Super shallow. When it's overhead, it'll drain, and half the wave turns into the lip. When it gets really big, think Teahupo'o with a pinch of Ship Sterns. This break hates people, and loves human flesh. Today is head to a little bit overhead on the peak we're riding. Probably close to double at the point, but that's above my paygrade on a SUP Even on a smaller day like today, it's constantly shifting, and shape changing as it moves across the reef. To surf it well, you have to be able to read the reef and water pretty well. Board is the Blue Planet Pocket Knife at 8'8"x29"x116L with Futures F6 Honeycomb fins set up as a thruster.
32
« on: February 03, 2021, 12:49:39 AM »
You lost me at "40° water" LOL. Great shots, though.
33
« on: February 03, 2021, 12:47:34 AM »
Beautiful lines. I wish we had a wave like that here, but without the cold
34
« on: February 03, 2021, 12:28:19 AM »
You're gonna need a bigger SUP...
36
« on: January 23, 2021, 12:17:35 AM »
Same. I just jumped on a race board the other day, and wet for a paddle around a local island.
37
« on: December 19, 2020, 07:30:33 PM »
I think I'm just used to Maui and Hood River, where it seems weird to be out less than two hours. Maui is particularly that way, warm water, reef breaks, and small tide changes.
Two hours would be bare minimum for me, too. We have 6' tide changes, and surfing is limited to about 3 hours on either side of high tide for most spots, so there are the days when you only catch it in the AM or the PM...or both :-) I'd say my average is probably 3-4 hours, with the occasional 6 hour rip.
38
« on: December 14, 2020, 08:12:26 PM »
I'll just add my ¥2 about my journey with size.
I'm 51, 5'10" and 185lbs. Started on the surf stuff three years ago at 10'x32"x160L, and ended up down at 8'x28'100L. Small boards were great in that they start to get back to that "shortboard-ish" feel.
Found that I'm just not into the knee-wrecking snaps anymore, and wondering what I'm doing paddling around digging myself out of a hole the whole time. Spending more time in the water than out of it when it gets some heavy movement, and just all around not having a very good time.
So I settled on more of what SUP feels like it's about to me. Being able to stand around and see the outside, regardless of how bad the conditions are instead of sitting around and popping up when a wave shows. Glide forever on the tiniest bumps. Longer, drawn-out carving turns, floaters, and surfing that has more flow in it than skate tricks.
I have two boards that I love, and future boards will all be around the same. 10'x28"x127L long board. Super stable, even at 28" wide. 8'8"x31"x120L rounded-pointy nose if it's too heavy for the long board, or the chop is crazy.
39
« on: December 08, 2020, 01:31:04 AM »
Some nice glides there.
40
« on: December 05, 2020, 08:55:16 PM »
Remember when Kai was that squirrely kid on a SUP? I also remember when 'big wave" surfing was straight-lining on giant burgers at Waimea.
41
« on: November 30, 2020, 08:07:30 PM »
Nice video oki. I’m curious what type of sea life you see on or under the water?
All of it I actually saw my first Great White on this spot two years ago. She was just cruising along, just off the reef. Would have never seen it if I wasn't n a SUP.
42
« on: November 30, 2020, 07:59:27 PM »
Right back at ya, Rick. Thanks for the reminder.
43
« on: November 25, 2020, 05:52:53 PM »
Nice. I paddle like that sometimes, too. I often surf for 4-5 hours, and paddle to the break/paddle back out either sitting on my but, or on my calves, as it conserves leg strength, and lets me surf longer
44
« on: November 25, 2020, 05:44:43 PM »
No booties, eh? My first time in tropical water (Puerto Rico) I cut the c'hit outta my feet?! ' Looks nice there - good for you.
Jim
It doesn't take long to learn not to put your feet down Oki's on it! Nice surfing and stoked for you getting it glassy. Nice new sup too. New board = new stoke. GL w/it. That water color is truly intoxicating. Very similar to my new cat's eyes.
Wow. Those eyes are crazy. Don't know if I've ever seen that color in cats.
45
« on: November 22, 2020, 03:52:15 AM »
Thanks all. Yea, the water clarity here can actually be a problem...no joke. On very calm days, it can actually be impossible to see the wave surface as you're surfing it. It looks like you're flying over the reef, and hard to see what's going on. You pray for a little wind :-) How's that 27.5 width custom? Tippy in the lineup? You might be able to get in tight enough to get a little cover up barrel. I'm sure it's quicker rail to rail.
The board is awesome. Even with the width and only 105L, it's more stable than my 29" boards with 116L that have the pointy nose. Wish it had a little more kick in the tail, but then it wouldn't really be a "nose performer" lol. It's my new favorite board, and thinking about asking Rob for a custom one with the additional rocker. It's unreal how "hooked in" it feels in really steep sections.
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