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Messages - OkiWild

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241
SUP General / Re: BIG Shark Encounter off LBI New Jersey
« on: May 28, 2019, 04:12:50 PM »
Saw my first GW last spring on an outer reef. Around 3 meters, so just a "baby." Thought I'd be way more spooked than I was. Tried to follow along as it swam along the bottom, just off the reef (me staying on top of the reef in the shallower water). After a while, it just moved off. Only reason I saw it was because I was on a SUP. Makes me wonder how many times I haven't seen them. I see Black Tips all the time, and the occasional Tiger, but the White was next level.

242
SUP General / Re: Cape Cod SUPsters Hang'n Tough
« on: May 28, 2019, 04:06:11 PM »
Great shots Creek. Looks like great surf, too bad it's so cold ;-)

243
Technique / Re: Getting Shacked
« on: May 22, 2019, 05:21:37 PM »
I generally ride mushburgers, but on the rare occasion when I'm in a pitching wave breaking top to bottom I hold to paddle in close, on the wave side, with my top hand way out front, so I can touch the wave if I want, and my bottom hand at or behind my thigh so the blade stays out of the way, behind me and generally on the inside (depending on what I'm doing with my front hand). 

I've done the thing you were doing--pulling the blade forward and running it along the face--but there's three problems with that. It moves me too far away from the wave, pushes me off balance to the outside of the board, and it's too coarse of a drag. The blade is just too powerful, even just skimming the edge. I found it was pushing me off balance on the outside, which means if you fall, you go off the high side. I like to lean into the wave and let the board angle manage speed. If I want to try to slow down and get shacked (unlikely in Maui except at Maalea) I touch the wave with my front hand and the paddle handle, keeping my lower hand close to my thigh. That has the added benefit of keeping the blade well away from the face. If the blade gets grabbed it's over.


I've always leaned into the wave, as well, usually with my rear hand dragging. If it's tight, I'll grab the outside rail with the other hand. It's made the whole "what to do with the paddle" thing a big hump to get over. I've had to relearn so many things. Got back on a short board the other day for the first time in two years, and it was pretty funny for the first five waves.


Anyway, I've seen the videos of what the pro's do. Everyone has a different style, and switch it up, but they're pro's... I was really interested in what "normal" people are doing, and there are some good tips here. Thanks for that.

Everyone always said "SUP surfing is easy." Well, maybe if it's waist-high on a barge, it might be easier to start than a short board. But I was on a short board for 38 years before standing on a SUP for the first time, and I'm telling you It ain't easy. It has completely different dynamics that I'm having to relearn, but having the time of my life while doing it.

Thanks

244
Technique / Re: Getting Shacked
« on: May 22, 2019, 02:08:40 AM »
Short clip from a while ago showing exactly what I'm talking about. Not quite a cover up, just under the hook, but slowed down, the paddle and shoulders tell the tale. I like holding the paddle in both hands, but it seems impossible to keep the body in a good position.


245
Technique / Re: Getting Shacked
« on: May 22, 2019, 01:48:44 AM »
I've learned how to fall with the paddle, and it's almost never an issue. I did snap a paddle last year when I got pitched forward going back side. For some reason, on that wave I just entered with the paddle out in front of me and didn't angle it enough, and the blade/shaft junction area of the blade gave out. I also bought better paddles after that.

When I'm talking about landing on the paddle wrong, I'm talking about riding front side and holding the paddle on your back side with my right hand (goofy). If you get flipped or thrown out in front of the wave, the paddle is behind you and you have less control over where it goes. I agree about holding the paddle in one hand while surfing, but in confined spaces might be a different story.

I have 8 SUP's now.  Three "performance" surf boards that range  8'2"x28"x100L to 8'10"x28"x116L, two performance long boards  9'x28"x116L and 10'x28"x127L, one 10'x31xwho knows barge, and two race boards.


246
Technique / Getting Shacked
« on: May 22, 2019, 12:12:01 AM »
...and what to do with the stupid paddle...LOL

So I've been at this SUP thing since August before last (lifetime surfer), and finally feeling confident enough to paddle into the bowl or peak in larger surf. The way the water moves across the reef on an approaching set makes it really difficult and intimidating when standing and stroking into a wave, but we're finally getting there. Our surf here is primarily shallow reef, and drains and slabs when it starts getting bigger.

This last weekend it was around double overhead on the sets, but really draining and sketchy, so I stuck with the just-overhead to head-and-a-half waves. Pulled up into the barrel three times, two of which I got blasted. Front-side, goofy-foot. In video, I find that I normally ride in a steep section with the paddle in front, lightly slicing in the wave face. The two bad ones I found that the paddle would get pulled back and up, rotating my upper body from squared-up, back to facing the wave. This, of course makes the board turn up the wave, and it goes quickly "up hill" from there. The one where I made it, I accidentally had the paddle on the outside in one hand, and my left hand on the wave face.

So I got to thinking... What do most people do with the paddle? The only real reference I see on Youtube is Jess Leedy. He seems to hold it on the outside in one hand, but man that seems like a vulnerable position where the wave can really get at it, and you're almost certain to land on it.

All tips and tricks much appreciated. Typhoon season is coming!   

247
SUP General / Re: Stay unpopular - comment on foiling
« on: May 16, 2019, 05:31:47 PM »
going straight on a foil is not the same feeling as going straight on normal board.  When you get locked in flying down the line, the speed is quite exhilarating

My buddy got his BP Easy Foiler the other day, and we took it out for the first time yesterday afternoon in unbreaking, knee-high rollers, and it was amazing. Only "flying" for a couple of seconds at a time, but what a rush. Easy to catch the wave, and as soon as it lifts, the way everything goes silent, and the acceleration is unreal.

Watching all the videos, was totally prepared for the lift, and setting it right back down as gently as possible, but wasn't ready for the acceleration and speed. I love the small days just riding a race board straight, and this is next level.   

248
Gear Talk / Re: Roof transport in summer
« on: May 14, 2019, 12:27:22 AM »
Hi folks!  Can you throw out suggestions again about the best way to get the board on the roof in the wind?  Thanks!

Two people  :D

249
I have the 27" carbon Bump Rider and love it. I bought it thinking I was going to just downwind on it. Then I started surfing and cruising on it so much that downwind became a secondary purpose. If I would have known I would go down that road from the start, I would have bought the 30" wide board in the bamboo and glass lay-up...in fact, I may just buy another one, as I like it that much.   

250
Sessions / Re: Fun waves but Soloshot Not
« on: May 09, 2019, 06:45:37 PM »
Nice. Northeast coast seems to be pretty consistent.

251
SUP Safety / Re: Nocturnal shark attacks?
« on: May 07, 2019, 06:21:02 PM »
The big pelagic sharks, as the sun starts to set for the night, they start to come inshore. This is common knowledge where I live.

I've been spearfishing the sub-tropics for most of my life, quite a bit on structure like deeper water piers, etc. Dusk and dawn is when the big predators are present. They disappear shortly after sunrise, and come in with the setting sun. I see Black-tip reef sharks all the time, the occasional Tiger, and very rarely a Bull. Last spring I saw my first GW, and it was while on a SUP. Morning session on an offshore reef. Only about 3 meters long, and cruising along in the deeper water, just off the reef drop off. Followed it for a minute (staying on top of the reef), and was way less spooked than i thought I'd be. Was an incredible experience.

No reported attacks here, other than a surfer being "nipped" on the foot a few years back. Still pretty spooky in the water at twilight.     

252
Gear Talk / Re: gel coat repair
« on: May 07, 2019, 06:00:10 PM »
Sand again smooth and do your best faux finish with some grey and black paint brushed. Then spray a rattler can flat or semi clear.

I don't even bother to paint them anymore... :-)


253
SUP General / Re: Stay unpopular - comment on foiling
« on: May 07, 2019, 12:16:52 AM »
Robert and the BP crew rocks!
that place is foil heaven  ;)

Yup. My buddy just ordered a 6'6" Easy Foiler so I can ride it and decide if I want one too... LOL.

254
SUP General / Re: SAD NEWS--Sunny Garcia
« on: May 06, 2019, 04:48:31 PM »
She even showed me her shoes and you could see what appears to be where at some point she stepped on her own shoes. As to try and change her mind to save herself or something. 

In interviews with survivors who jumped from the Golden Gate Bridge, the common thread is that the second their feet left the bridge, they knew they had made a mistake, and that whatever the problem was, it was not insurmountable.   


I had PTSD in my early 20's, and with that came depression and the whole list of torments. I've been through some bad things, but depression is, by far, the worst thing I've ever experienced. You just can't accurately describe it to people. It's my opinion that it's mainly support that keeps people moving forward. You can reach a point where the pain is so unbearable, the only reason you don't end it is because you don't want to hurt those who care for you. That's a dark place to be, and without the lifeline of people who care, there's nothing to hold on to.

Stigma or not, I made a promise to myself to always share my experience and be there for anyone who needs help. I'm greatly saddened when I hear of things like what happened with your niece, what's happening with Sunny, what AI went through, and on and on and on...

255
SUP General / Re: Just when you thought it was safe to go outside
« on: May 06, 2019, 03:52:04 PM »

Not sure I am ready for pants like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SABOLAY-Snorkeling-Paddling-Swimming-Canoeing/dp/B07NXTLXY4?th=1&psc=1


I now wear regular sports compression pants, and trunks over those. Feels like the same material rash guards are made from.

I've always thought rubbing chemicals all over your body was a bad idea, and I just don't care about looking like a kook any more. I draw the line at booties, though ;-)

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