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Messages - littleray
31
« on: January 05, 2016, 07:56:59 AM »
A fun watch,especially after spending the last three weeks in Maui.Had one great day at lowers last week,head high,before the big stuff came.I would have liked to see more footage of going out through and around the white water.Being able to negotiate a way out to the lineup or back out if you get caught inside is sometimes the true test when it gets big.
32
« on: January 05, 2016, 07:39:32 AM »
Great video made annoying to watch with sound track more suited to the Lunada Bay thread.
33
« on: January 04, 2016, 02:02:43 PM »
Sounds like a call out to Billy Jack is in order.He'd carve his big stick into a paddle and take care of them. A movie would be made,maybe a sequel.
34
« on: December 18, 2015, 10:25:38 AM »
I'm not good enough to be a wave hog yet.
Someday, I will be good enough, and I will become a wave hog. Then, after a few tens of thousands of waves, I will become a gentleman.
i don't think of wave hogs as being 'good'. often they're the worst surfers out there. but they ride a wave, come back, circle around on the outside, and take the next one. i think some SUPers think if they can always be the furthest outside, every wave is theirs. i'll either paddle away, or if in the 'proper' mood, block them.
Exactly.It was mentioned in a post earlier,if you have to bicycle in to the take off zone then you really aren't in the right place to catch the wave.It doesn't matter how far outside you are.
35
« on: November 19, 2015, 08:38:52 PM »
Whatcha know.It worked.
36
« on: November 19, 2015, 08:36:49 PM »
Everytime i open this page it feels like someone is winking at me.Next # please.
37
« on: September 26, 2015, 11:17:36 PM »
His wife asked him"When you die,where would you like to be buried?" His reply"I don't know,surprise me"
38
« on: September 08, 2015, 03:33:03 PM »
"Looks like a good paddling is in order.....next time stay in the boat"
39
« on: August 30, 2015, 08:45:20 AM »
So littleray.... so everyone outside is a kook?? we just say fuck it?.....the best sets just get thrown under the bus, because some kooks can't catch a wave? What?
You are NOT "sitting in the pocket" if the wave breaks WAY outside of your "pocket" position.... that's why they are the bigger sets. They are bigger. They break further out. I'm not talking about stroking into an unbroken swell on a monster board, I'm talking about taking off in the pocket.... on a bigger set.... properly positioned and executed.
When I wait patiently outside for a good set.... I still believe that the people who chose to sit inside should pay attention, and when they are to far inside.... get the hell out of the way.
if not.... what are we doing out there?..... The person paddling out becomes the "focus" ....not the rider on the wave?
STC,i'm not sure you read my posting clearly. I wasn't talking about the cheery pickers inside.I'm talking about the ones that come barrelling into a wave from 20-25 yds out,trying for all their worth to climb over the back of the wave to get into it,only to miss it and mess it up for the SUS (surfer) in the right spot to catch it.I agree 100% with your pictures.Now what if you took yourself out of the wave and superimpose yourself on the back of those waves,scratching to get in it and being to late?Is that not a kook move? Typically,they then turn their attention to the following wave and try to get into that regardless of who else is in position.
40
« on: August 30, 2015, 12:36:24 AM »
Leashes altered surfing in a more dramatic way than any other innovation. I made one instantly out of "Shock cord".... looped around your ankle.... other end pushed though a hole drilled in the fin..... with a knot on the end to keep it from pulling out.
Before leashes, to be successful, you needed to become a waterman. You needed to plan your paddle out.... and where you would surf. Watermen stood on the beach and timed the sets.... learning the rips and the best chance of getting outside.
Think of the breaks now surfed.... rocky shores, cliffs, dangerous rips Before leash - they were surfed only by the best and craziest, because if you lost your board into the rocks, cliff, channel..... it was destroyed or gone.
Before Leash- People didn't take off on every wave. They chose more wisely, and only went if they had a decent chance of making it. With a leash - They go for every wave. They take off too far back , call the wave and never make it.... who cares... they can just pull their board back and repeat
Before Leash- Clean up set meant just that..... kooks got caught inside, hammered and lost their board. The line-up was clean for the next 1/2 hour Waterman saw sets coming and moved to the right spot and enjoyed an empty line-up for a while.
Before Leash- People got tired and left the water to rest now they never leave
Before Leash- people didn't sit inside so casually..... if a big set rolled through.... they ended up with a long, slow, tiring swim. Now they are a pain in the ass.... every set wave is an exercise in threading your way through the kooks inside That's almost the worst of the bunch..... EVERY good wave seems to be ruined in some way by people who clog the inside....
Before leashes..... surfers became very good swimmers... and watermen.
I'm a "set" surfer..... I will wait for the bigger waves.... it seems like I'm always deciding if I should thread the needle or straighten out.... blowing a great wave. That's the worst. Great waves ruined. Surfing is all about the surfing.... not kook avoidance. That really sucks.... it has happened to me countless times this week alone.... sheeesh.... what's the point of getting a good wave???
But I ain't giving up MY leash any time soon [/quoteSo the pack sitting too far outside,paddling like their life depended on it,only to miss the wave and interfering with the surfer(s) sitting in the pocket from making it,thats alright?I figure there are just as many kooks outside as there are inside.No hall pass for setting up outside.
41
« on: August 04, 2015, 03:14:37 PM »
Au contraire kaya.... I like the drive I get with my paddle on the same side as my forward foot.... much more in balance, for me.
The Drive.....that's why I prefer it.....who knew?Now I know.
42
« on: June 03, 2015, 10:03:49 PM »
I'm sure there is a case of Dos Equis somewhere in that truck Pono is..........."The Most Interesting Man in the World"
43
« on: May 02, 2015, 07:16:04 AM »
Its's a terrible wave.The place is packed with people,smiles on their faces having fun.....and then the pros show up.
44
« on: April 05, 2015, 09:10:51 AM »
Often when i go backside I end up on my backside.
45
« on: March 25, 2015, 04:30:18 PM »
Here's my idea. Ralph, make us T-shirts of some of these ideas!
these are already available from a company advertising in the Standup Journal
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