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Messages - sharksupper
331
« on: April 23, 2010, 01:26:33 PM »
I use the truck door moulding stuff...
Pros: -Saves the board/paddle when learning, or letting others learn/borrow -Saves yourself and others from being injured by the sharp blade edges in big surf. -Cheap, $8
Cons: -Adds weight, about 3-4oz, to the worst end of the paddle... increases swing weight -Affects paddle performance due to the added lip
The pros by far outweight the cons for my conditions and use.
I have yet to meet someone around here who hasn't been hurt by their unprotected blade in surf, the last time my buddy went to the hospital for several stitches above his eye. For $8 and 10min of time he's now protected... and I'm not fixing paddle holes in his boards every dang session!
I have not noticed too much of a performance hit from the added weight/lip, I never missed a wave because of it, but I can definitely feel the added swing weight.
For $8 you could just take it off if it didn't work out, no major loss...
332
« on: April 11, 2010, 03:23:12 PM »
My beginner 2 cents... I've never done any races, but regularly do 4-6mile runs up/down a local river. Most times I'm powering through not drifting with current much.
I started with a C4 8.5" carbon paddle, it was good for when I was very new as it's light and a bit flexy and forgiving. However, after not too long my strength increased and I was drawing air behind the blade when trying to pull full power strokes.
Next I bought a QB Peahi and was super stoked with it's power, massive! I never went back to the C4. The flex seemed about the same.
Recently, thanks to a posting here, I bought a PowerEx SO. Like the Peahi it has lots of power (I cannot overpower the blade) and it's insanely stiff compared to the previous two paddles. I loved it right away, but wondered how I'd like going back to the Peahi. I got the chance last weekend when I had to use it because I left the PowerEx at a friends house. I did a 6mi river run and had lots of time to get used to the Peahi again. At first it felt like a noodle! I could hardly paddle the thing. I soon found a slower steady stroke worked best, low cadence. The issue was, with the paddle loaded up at all times from the flex I could not get it to release very clean from the water at high cadence. This is where I found the stiffer paddle better, it unloads and releases much quicker. I was also missing some power from my strokes from the flex. On the good side, it certainly was easier on the joints, all the movements blend into eachother because of the flex.
Just my experience/opinion, I'm sure it's different for everyone.
334
« on: February 25, 2010, 12:42:54 PM »
That is a sweet looking board, it's exactly what I've been looking for in size/shape. All the 12' guns are a bit big for me. Do you know the Liters? Can't wait until they're available.
335
« on: February 12, 2010, 05:01:12 PM »
Picked one up at paddleboardspecialists.com they are on sale $269
Thanks for the tip! Gary had me one in less than a week, awesome service! I just got the edge protected, haven't paddled it yet. Has about the same surface area as the QB, and it has more surface area deeper in the water (shorter blade length) It also has less rake than the QB. No comparison to the "tiny" C4! I had troubles with getting the C4 to hold in the water, but the SO looks really powerful. Should be interesting to see how it paddles in comparison, I think this may be my new favorite paddle (as powerful as the QB and as good wave handling as the C4?), stoked!
336
« on: February 04, 2010, 01:29:49 PM »
I haven't seen a Werner paddle up close, but sanding down sharp edges sounds like a good idea in general to save your board/self. I'd just make sure it's not a part of the structural integrity of the paddle. If it's just carbon/fiberglass/epoxy you won't have to worry about frayed edges much, but you can just brush it with a coat of epoxy afterward if you're worried. I had to do that with my C4 paddle shaft when I dinged it, to prevent slivers.
The door molding can be flattened out, not easily, but it can be done for transition areas, then you have to either glue or tape it down, or both, in that area. I epoxied it down and put the shrink wrap over it. Some heavy duty electrical tape may have worked too.
Paddle makes should provide a solution for this, seems like everyone would benefit.
338
« on: February 04, 2010, 12:34:05 PM »
beaglebuddy,
I had an issue with the molding peeling up at the ends too... some paddles transition slowly to a flat surface, like the C4... At first I used electrical tape, and that is pretty good, but eventually it would give way. If you used a lot of tape and put it on good it would not doubt be a decent solution. I happened to have some 1-1/2" or 2" dia (unshrunk) shrink wrap laying around... and my handles are only taped on so I was able to use this. It is definitely the best way to go if you have it and don't have the handle permanently attached yet. Otherwise, I would have just used epoxy and the electrical tape to hold it in place until it was cured.
339
« on: February 04, 2010, 09:52:18 AM »
A friend of mine turned me on to the door molding stuff. We use epoxy at the ends and inside curves to prevent it from peeling up... and I added shrink wrap to keep it on where it ends. "PROTECTS BEUATIFIES" ... lol I destroyed the rails on my C4 before going this route. It works great for regular paddle scraping, but big hits from losing balance and such it still leaves a ding sometimes, it's just more spread out and has less penetration into the board skin. Great stuff. If you could find something just a little softer it might help with the bigger hits more.
340
« on: January 13, 2010, 10:51:29 AM »
I've had a 9-3 ripper for a few months, came off a 10-6 C4 also. I mainly just surf in decent waves, and it was an awesome transition, I was kicking myself for not having bought a smaller board sooner. Again my focus is performance surfing only. I would not say flat paddling is it's strong suit, however, I did an 8mile up/down winder on a river and it was keeping up with larger boards ok, but there is no way it would be as fast as the 10-6 in flat. It will definitely be harder to stay balanced on in chop, but I've been able to go out on days with 20mph on shore/side shore winds and manage to still have fun in the waves, but only just. I actually find it easier to catch faster beach break waves on this board than the 10-6. What you give up is flat water efficency and stability for steep drops, much faster turning/carving, and a better fit on tight faces (less pearling when staying forward and tight inside). A lot comes down to the waves you ride, I'm on large fast beach break here. Great board for the money. If it was the same price as others I'd probably be less likely to pick it over other options. I'm 165lbs.
341
« on: January 07, 2010, 09:53:00 AM »
I really appreciate the extra nose rocker on the mano for steep/fast waves I ride. I've stuck the nose a whole lot less than with my other boards. From the limited boards I've seen and ridden, this seems to set it apart from the others. I suppose everything is a trade off, and the more nose rocker could contribute to more wind getting under it, making it more flighty in a good headwind down the face. It might also make it slower paddling in chop. Everything is a tradeoff for something else.
It's really nice to find a board closer dialed to your local conditions though, and the mano certainly is great for where I'm at (Nor Cal). I suppose the ultimate is if you find a local shaper familiar with the conditions where you ride and have them make a perfect board for your skill/style and the local conditions available. While I love the mano, I'm already thinking of things I'd like to have changed to make it even more agreeable to my local conditions. Can't wait to see what the designers come up with for the future!
342
« on: December 28, 2009, 02:14:21 PM »
Amen to new toys to tickle our fancies, my heart races just thinking of taking one of these boards out in good conditions. Can't wait to see what the future brings.
343
« on: December 28, 2009, 09:28:34 AM »
What I've liked more about each board I've transisioned through had more to do with my skill level growing and the next board allowing me to progress further in the conditions here. I've gone from a Starboard Mr Easy, to C4 10-6, to 9-3 ripper, to JL Mano 9-0 now. Each one has opened new doors for performance and riding style in waves, but the 9-3 and Mano will share time on the water, whereas the bigger boards don't have as many advantages for the fast beach breaks I ride.
344
« on: December 28, 2009, 12:33:32 AM »
I've ridden the 9-0 twice now in only ok-ish conditions. I'm still getting used to it and its feel. I have noted some things so far compared to the 9-3 ripper...
-It does not catch bigger/slower waves as easy, must drop in more critical. -It does not glide out as well in the bottom -It's more affected by wind from its light weight, with a 10-15mph head wind it almost feels like it wants to take flight down the face. -It's significantly more work to balance on, 25 less Liters? -It tugs a lot less on the leash when swallowed -It can be pumped up to speed easier on the face -It turns like nobody's business, the first time I stomped on the tail I spun it out completely -It feels really loose and skatey, super fun!
It's most notable traits are the lightness and turning/loosness.
I'm very happy with it so far, but I can't see it replacing the 9-3 like the 9-3 did my 10-6 C4. In good waves it's going to really be fun.
I'm 165lbs, been paddling for a year.
345
« on: December 23, 2009, 10:19:17 PM »
First one in the US Mano 9' x 27-3/4" x 4-1/8" 20.8lbs wet (rode it today for the first time) next to a... PSH Ripper 9'3" x 28-3/8" x 4-1/4" 24.6lbs dry Choose your ride, both very very fun, yet quite different riding.
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