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Messages - sflinux

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General Discussion / Re: Filling a gouge in SUP-help needed
« on: Today at 07:49:56 AM »
1) For testing if the foam is poly, you can put a drop of epoxy resin on it (or solvents like diethyl ether, tetrahydrofuran).  It will dissolve and emit a gas if the foam is poly.
2)  You can use either gorilla glue or q-cell to fill.  I prefer gorilla glue.  It is easier, lighter, and faster.  For either,  you will want to add glass for strength.
3) Ratio.  I usually keep adding Q-cell until you get a cake frosting consistency.

Gear Talk / Re: Fanatic Stubby 8'7 vs Naish Manas or something bulkier?
« on: February 12, 2021, 12:17:44 PM »
The fact that I found a pintail to be more stable was counter intuitive.  But with the additional area of the tail of wider boards, gives more torque for forces pushing on it (chop/wind), making it feel more tippy in choppy/windy conditions.
Here are some more pintails: https://jimmylewis.com/wave/
8’7” x 29.5” 110L Stun Gun
8’ x 30” 115L Destroyer MP
9’2” x 30.25” 124L Stun Gun

Gear Talk / Re: Fanatic Stubby 8'7 vs Naish Manas or something bulkier?
« on: February 12, 2021, 08:50:21 AM »
I went through a similar journey.  A wide board can speed up the downsizing process by feeling less tippy.  But a wide board can highlight poor technique (if you are still falling).  For improving technique, I found the points in this thread helpful.
I found a shorter paddle helped (higher cadence and lower center of gravity).  Focus on the water 6’ from your board, as those are the forces approaching your board.  Use your paddle to counteract those forces.
I tried a 32” board and didn’t find it more stable than my other 30” boards.  I found pintails more stable than a wider tale.  In windy conditions, I prefer a shorter board as porting the board is easier.  I found larger fins more stable than smaller fins.  I found 2+1 more stable than quads.  I found with wind, the higher the board sits in the water, the more likely the board to catch wind and make the board feel tippy.
I would recommend a pintail board.  For me, a guild factor of 1.5 was perfect for a quick progression, keeping the board small enough to not be too buoyant, but sufficient for stability.  For 74 kg, with a gf =1.5, you should look for a board around 111L.
For pintails boards, maybe check out:
GenRation Kanga 8’3" x 29 1/8” 109.8L  https://genration.com/collections/boards/products/kanga?variant=34941983260806
GenRation Kanga 8’6” x 30” 120L
Joe Blair 8'3" x 30" 121L (or custom 111L).  https://www.jblairsurf.com/2018-sup-models/
Blue Planet All Good 8’8” x 31” 126L https://www.blueplanetsurf.com/88-x-31-x-126l-all-good-2020.html

I have tried the L41 ST and TV dinner.  I would not recommend them to someone struggling with balance.  Awesome boards, but I prefer those boards for clean conditions.

The Shape Shack / Re: Thruster vs Quad test on new board
« on: February 09, 2021, 12:57:09 PM »
The Hobie CMLB Raw rips as a thruster.  But I really dig riding it with a 8.5" single fin on small days.  The 12' PSH Gun is also fun as a single fin.

The Shape Shack / Re: Thruster vs Quad test on new board
« on: February 09, 2021, 12:11:37 PM »
Thats cool that you found a board that works with both quads and thruster.  Most of the boards I've tried work better at one.
Looks like for the quads you settled on the equivalent of the PSH quad set (Pancho Sullivan front/ Controller Rear).  This has a combined surface area of 59.14.
For the thruster, you have the Pancho Sullivan front and GL2 center giving a combined surface area of 51.67.
Some Quad e.x. references:
The Controller quad 60.6.
GL2 quad 57.7
Stretch Quad 53.8
Some Thruster e.x references:
Pancho thruster 52.5
Colin Mcphillips thruster 49.9
Let's assume you are on a steep wave and the outside fin is out of the water, and only account of the area of the inside fin for quad (and center for thruster):
Your Pancho + Controller quad has an area = 29.57
Your Pancho + GL2 = 34.16.
Some Quad e.x. references:
The Controller quad 30.3
GL2 quad  28.9
Stretch Quad 26.91
Some Thruster e.x. references:
Pancho thruster 35.02
Colin Mcphillips thruster 32.92
When I play with fin sets I like to monitor the total area, maybe give you a clue of what to expect.   

General Discussion / Re: Moving to Santa Cruz..
« on: February 08, 2021, 03:10:31 PM »
I'd stop by a SC SUP shop and they should be able to point you in the right direction.  (i.e. Covewater).

SUP General / Re: Haley at Mavericks
« on: February 03, 2021, 03:24:10 PM »
Amazing.  Does he wear any protection (vest, hip, hydration pack, inflation vest)? 

Gear Talk / Re: Advice on board damage
« on: February 03, 2021, 03:21:53 PM »
That sucks, good luck with the repair.  I would be suspect of hidden leaks under the deck pad.  I would weigh the board before the repair.  I would weigh it again after the repair.  I would weigh it again after it has been out in the water.  After I take my board out in salt water, I like to store my board in the sun on my roof rack.  Any leaks usually show up as drips on the car, and salt residue can usually be seen where the leak is on the board.

General Discussion / Re: Common SUP Board Repairs
« on: January 28, 2021, 07:33:47 AM »
When buying a used board, be suspect of paint jobs as they can hide repairs.  Most of the used boards that I bought with repairs (either home or professional) were all substandard (to my standard).  Also be suspect of any non-stock items like a deck pad, which could be covering up a repair.  I've had boards that had hidden repairs under paint and deck pads.  Also be suspect of rail tape, I've had leaks hidden under them.  Inspect the goretex vent as if I've had used boards where water was getting in there.  For me, it is easier to buy a used board that needs a repair, rather than having to strip and redo an existing substandard repair.
I would add to feel the board for spongy sections.  Any spongy sections will most likely need to be stripped and reglassed.  Discolorations are often a clue for spongy sections.
I also make a note of the fins the previous owner was using.  Perhaps they were not using the optimal set-up, hence the motivation for selling the board.  Experiment with fins.
I would add that gorilla glue is great for repairs ({Thank you beasho}i.e. rejoining snaps, gap filler, plugging holes drilled for water draining, etc).
Avoid solvents like tetrahydrofuran, diethyl ether, polyester/polystyrene resin for eps as they will dissolve the foam.  Isopropanol is safe.
When doing repairs of painted boards, remove all the paint before a repair.  If you can get a color swatches from a paint company, that makes matching colors easier (I've been using Rustoleum Painter's Touch (2X Paint + Primer).  Home Depot has a pamphlet with color swatches so you can take it home and try to match.  If your board falls between shades, go with the darker shade.  A darker shade has a dirty look to it, where a lighter shade just looks off.  Before painting, I do a rough sand, followed by rubbing alcohol.  A warm windless day are ideal painting conditions.  Use masking tape to prevent overspray.  Keep the can at least 12" away and keep the can constantly moving to prevent pooling. 
If your epoxy does not have uv protectant, you may want to finish off painting with a clear uv protective coat to prevent repairs from yellowing over time.
Inspect the surf leash string, replace if any wears show.
For detecting leaks, I take the board out in salt water, then put it on the roof rack of my car and ideally park it in the sun on a warm day.  Any water drips on my car are suspect.  Often you will get salt residue on the board where the crack/hole is located.  If there is water in the board, drill 1/4 holes for the water to drain {thank you beasho}.  I don't rush this process (a month draining in the summer sun, if it is winter time, I wait till summer).  A 1/2 pound of water weight in the nose can make the difference between a dog and a magic board.
My cheapest sup was $50 with both leash plugs missing and a chunk of foam missing from the middle of the board and the tail, and both the nose and tail needed tlc. 
Keeping an old truck going is greener than buying a new Prius.  I got to think that buying used SUPs is the same.
If you don't have any tools, a random orbital sander, a variable speed polisher (different diameter attachments), and a hand drill are worth having.  I find chisels useful.    Knock off brands work fine.  I also use a Dremel tool (not knock off).
If you get more serious, you are going to want a proper shaping stand to save your back (~belly button height).

The Shape Shack / Re: Board Thickness Effect
« on: January 27, 2021, 07:28:37 AM »
You may enjoy listening to The SurfSimply podcast Episode 51: Profile, Outline, and Foil:
13:30-54 min mark
They touch on bow plane and angle of the board on rail, both of which can be affected by board thickness.

Naish Nalu 9'6" x 28" 130L [guild factor = 1.78]
Naish Hokua 9' x 29" x 4.5" 126L  [guild factor = 1.72]
No disrespect, but a guild factor of 1.78 is pretty high for someone who has been riding for 9 years.  I would encourage you to drop in volume to improve your surfing.
Frankly, I don't think you'd see the benefit of the Naish Hokua if you plan on keeping your Nalu.  As someone who has gone through a lot of boards, I think you would benefit from a different shape as TallDude recommended.  I would second a look at L41 shapes to supplement your Nalu.  I just tried the S5 (7'6" x 28.5" x 4.125" @ 110L [guild factor 1.21]) and was surprised at how stable and efficiently it paddled for such a short and narrow shape.  Talk to Kirk, but I think you should consider going down in volume to a guild factor of at most 1.5 (109L).  An example S5 would be 7'5" x 27 3/4" x 4 3/8" @ 108L.  All of his shapes are special imho.  I haven't tried Naish.
To get something faster down the line I would think you would go longer, narrower, flatter, or with a fatter tail.  With your Nalu dimensions, I think going the fatter tail route like a simsup will check all of the boxes for that "new thing" that you are looking for:
-Wave catching machine, from 2’ – 8’
-Fast down the line
-Fun and fast in mushy and bumpy surf conditions
-Paddles flat water reasonably well (isn’t a dog or draggy)

~7'6" may sound short, but L41 shapes typically feel like a board 1 foot longer (i.e. 8'6").  Dropping from your 9'6" to something like feels like a 8'6" should be totally doable.  Wave count should still be high but your takeoffs will be later and closer to the peak.  These types of boards accelerate incredibly fast so 1 or 2 strokes and you are in.

The Shape Shack / Re: Board Thickness Effect
« on: January 22, 2021, 08:22:13 AM »
Congrats on the new board.  With the ride report, perhaps mention any shape differences you notice with the board (i.e. tail shape, tail width, rocker, etc).
1)  The boards would have a different guild factor.  One board will sit "higher" in the water.  That board will require more force to get the rail to engage. 
2) I would think the 26" board will glide better through the water at speed.  The 28" board might have faster acceleration due to lower aspect ratio.  I agree that 26" would be less stable.  I don't consider 4.5" to be too thick.
Thinner and domed rails make the board feel more tippy.  But they also make the board feel more reactive (race car versus sedan).
Sit down/knee boarders with their low center of gravity can really leverage their weight to get a rail to sink.  SUPs have that advantage over conventional surfers because we can use the force of the paddle.
Board design is super complicated: 
Tail shape: I find pintails more stable than squash, but squash turn more aggressive.  I like pintails for big surf, squash is fun in smaller surf.
Bottom contours: The bottom contours can have a huge effect on the ride and will determine on what type of ride it is best suited for (mushy versus steep).  A convex nose with slight v would be better for small/softer surf.  Whereas single concave to double concave with strong V might be better for hollow/steep fast surf.
Rocker line: Affect how a board fits in the wave.  Flatter rocker paddles faster and accelerates faster on a wave.  Bigger rocker will make a board match the line of a steeper wave.
Fins: huge effect
Board length: longer has more swing weight
nose shape: wider is more stable, narrower easier to punch through waves, and less likely to catch on steep drops.
volume: how does the board support your weight
With all the board attributes, rail thickness is lowest on my radar.  If I had a board in mind that I wanted a certain length and width, I would tweak the rail thickness to get the desired volume.   
I would think for high-performance rail turns, the thinner the rail the better.  But similarly, the narrower the better as your foot is closer to the rail to weigh the turn, where on a wider board you would have to move your foot and probably not be able to leverage the turn as well.  And similarly with volume, the lower the volume, the easier to get rail in the water.

Training, Diet, and Fitness / Re: At home training ap?
« on: January 21, 2021, 07:35:11 AM »
My New Years resolution was more leg work.  I started using a jump rope and have seen positive results.  I also added a carve board to help me work on my rail game.
It is hard to recommend training without knowing what your goal is?  If it is to just lose weight, I would self reflect on diet (limit refined sugar and alcohol intake is always a good start as the liver is the only organ in your body which can metabolize those and it has an efficiency capacity which you can overload).  And when looking at "losing weight" remember that a scale also measures your bone and muscle density, where less is not always better than more.
K.I.S.S. activities that could benefit your prone surfing:
If getting back into prone surfing after a hiatus, volume will be your friend.
Excercise bands:
There are a ton of exercises with Swiss balls.  Bosu balls are cool too.
More advanced training would be squats and kettlebells but you want to make sure you are educated on how to do this correctly, as incorrectly it could cause more harm than good.

SUP General / Re: Haley at Mavericks
« on: January 13, 2021, 10:56:07 AM »
Beasho thanks for sharing.  Absolutely Amazing. 
What size board is Haley riding?  The wave almost makes the board look too small.
Does Haley make his own 20 ft leash, or does he have it custom made?  A 20' leash is on my wish list.  Love my Crow Haley waist leash, thanks for the recommendation.

I like looking at guild factor.  This website gives a rough guide:
Basically says:
a beginner should have a guild factor (gf) = 2
intermediate (gf) = 1.7
advanced (gf) = 1.3
Your current board has a guild factor of 1.9.
Both of the boards you are looking at have the same guild factor:
sunova 10' x 30.5" 137L gf = 1.5
new deal 10' x 29" 139L gf = 1.5
Stability & wave catching ability are pretty high priorities for me.
Based on your priorities, you may want to lean towards the wider board.  I haven't tried either of these brands.
With respect to a guild factor of 1.5, I think that is a perfect next jump down for you.  I made the greatest progression while riding a gf 1.5 board (should have skipped the 1.67 in hindsight).
I am the same height and weight as you. This past year, my guild factor progression has gone 1.67 pintail (@29.125" wide), 1.52 pintail (@33" wide), 1.55 squash tail (@32" wide), 1.4 pintail (@ 30" wide), 1.44 squash (@30" wide), L41 ST 1.4(@30.5" wide), 1.39 pintail (@29.5" wide), L41 Simsup 1.37(@31" wide), L41 TV Dinner 1.28 (@29" wide).  Now that winter swell is here I bounce between a 1.93 pintail (@ 28 7/8" wide) and a 1.52 pintail (@ 30" wide).  But with the additional weight in winter rubber those gf are probably more like 1.8 and 1.4 respectively.
I think having a longboard and a shorter board is a great combo.  I lean towards the shorter board if the tide is low and the waves are steep and pitching.
You may want to check out Blue Planet as they have some fun boards in the 140L range.  Their rails are nice and thin compared to the AllWave.

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