Messages

436

The Shape Shack / Re: Is EPS foam packing material ok to practice on for sealing, sanding & painting?

« on: August 07, 2015, 12:41:49 PM »

Hi MW-
As I see it,  spackle fills in the cracks and fills in missing beads and is then sanded off the faces of the beads.

Some pictures to illustrate. Samples are 1 PCF EPS treated with a green silkscreen ink to simulate spackle or resin.

The ink does not do much on the face of the beads, but does go into the crack, voids, etc.

Have fun with your trials and looking forward to seeing your build in the Shape Shack! -J

437

The Shape Shack / Re: Is EPS foam packing material ok to practice on for sealing, sanding & painting?

« on: August 04, 2015, 09:10:42 PM »

MW-When the spackle is dry...really dry...it sands very easily. When it is part dry it can get stringy and pull away from the substrate.

I'd start your experiment with 80-150 screen before spackle and 150-220 after, using a little foam between your hand and the screen, like an old rubber mouse pad or some heavy duty carpet pad or upholstery foam.  Also take a look at what surf supply places are selling for foam sanding blocks to get some more ideas.

Sometimes I just grab the next screen or paper I can find and test it carefully on the board. If it works I keep going, if not I keep looking.

Your microwave EPS is probably molded and the beads may be fused smoothly at the surface. If you want to get a full appreciation for the nature of the beads, cut off a chunk with a hand saw and shape/sand it back smooth and then spackle it.

-J

438

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: August 04, 2015, 07:47:02 PM »

Good stuff Biggreen, thanks!

I decided to put a little vitamin 'CNC' into the deck repair. Enclosing pictures of the router jig that got me in trouble (OK I got me in trouble, the jig worked fine, operator mental error...) and the CNC rig making the patches. I could have cut a straight piece and bent it, but I wanted to puzzle out the curved 3D and get some time in on the mill before its next project later this week.

Artist and I have a date set in a couple weeks to paint and glass the board. Work is picking up too so I'll be busy up until then. The week off to travel, paint, and glass should be fun, and the board work left before the trip should be manageable during the evenings before the trip. -J

439

The Shape Shack / Re: Re-decorating for resale.

« on: August 03, 2015, 08:16:27 PM »

Jim, the board looks great. Do you have any more paint jobs coming up? Could we talk you into a tutorial please?-J

440

The Shape Shack / Re: Is EPS foam packing material ok to practice on for sealing, sanding & painting?

« on: August 03, 2015, 07:38:24 PM »

MW-



Short little video from Stretch's shop showing it going on thin...just enough to fill in cracks and missing beads, not intending to create a shell or surface, which would need to be sanded off anyways.

Make sure it's lightweight and white, some come w/ primer and grey coloring that is miserable looking on a white board. Thin w/ distilled water (tap water is crap water, learned that and other things about spackle on Sway's) and let'er rip.

I hope to be dipping and scraping soon myself. -J

PS If you're planning on painting the foam before glassing, save some paint in case you need to touch up a sander gouge on a rail...

441

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: August 03, 2015, 02:14:57 PM »

Thanks Guys.

I had one of 'those' weekends in the shop.

Started out working on a paddle, that went fine. Then I made something for the neighbor that went OK too. Then the board's  tail got trimmed and chamfered, and that actually turned out pretty good. Then I addressed the recess on the board. After reviewing notes here and some dims on the internet, I decided to move the recess 2" towards the nose and the process get rid of my mess-up and glue-up from the last time.

In my head is was going to be awesome. I would make 1/8 inch deep steps at a 1/4 inch decreasing radius from the tail to allow me to fill and smooth the cove better than it was before. So I cobbled up a 8 foot long router jig out of scraps, kind of looking like a prop from a movie where the villain is going to slice the hero in half with a slowly descending pendulum.

All was good until I started cutting. I did not set my router to the correct depth and my 2:1 run to rise transition with 1/8" steps quickly became 1:1 with 1/4" steps, much to my consternation.  I ended up routing the steps off and I am back to filling in the transition with fresh angled foam. I was never intending on that part of the board being visible (planning to cover/bury in carbon) but was so looking forward to the rework going as planned.

One of these days I'd like to get through a board and have the ding repair happen AFTER it's finished.

-J

442

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 31, 2015, 08:30:19 AM »

Adding picture of features I am thinking to place pre-artwork and pre-glass. Also thinking about HD foam around the plastic pieces as well. -J

443

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 31, 2015, 05:23:24 AM »

Thanks TD, there are some spots that should iron out nicely.

I talked with the artist last night. It looks like pre-glass artwork will be the course of action. This may mean I will be glassing this at a remote location...

I still need to trim the tail 1.5" to make 12'-6" and give it its final shape. Then it's sand, fill, sand, primer.

***Would there be drawbacks to pre-installing all the fittings (handle, boxes, vents, leash plugs) and the carbon fiber deck patch (direct to EPS) before primer and the artwork?***

If those features are present, the artist will 'flow' around them rather than me routing through the artwork later, plus I can line them up under familiar conditions and do any rework easier.

Thanks for the input, J

444

The Shape Shack / Re: A blend of old and new 7'2 x 26.6"

« on: July 28, 2015, 04:50:52 PM »

Awwwwwwwwwww...Congrats Charlie! -J

445

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 26, 2015, 08:18:34 AM »

Here's a pic of the bottom with sidelights. My youngest took a look at it while helping me redo the light stands and said 'that should fill in fine with micro balloons or something like that. That makes me smile, we haven't built a board together in years and he still remembers what goes where.  He also said he'd come help glass it which is another batch of awesome.

446

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 25, 2015, 05:33:33 PM »

I had some time in the garage today- 90 degrees, humid, college radio, and a fan...and now it's starting to look more like a board.  I banded the lower rail 3' from the tail towards the nose with a planer, and finally dug in to the nose with the long sanding board.  I'll have to see what it looks like with the sidelights later, too hot today to work with the door closed.

447

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 23, 2015, 11:04:17 AM »

You see it now. It's R & D from here. Finish it, paddle it, study it, and change it.....

What an evolution this project has been, jrandy. Been cool to follow. When you're learning as you go along, isn't it great to be able to combine maddening, confusing, frustrating, and rewarding all together as one and actually enjoy them all!

Thanks Guys, and thank you to everyone else here for all of the input and inspiration.

I fiddled with the sections from the other day and got them from paper to scanner to AutoCAD to Inventor.
Someday I'll give it a go in surfboard design software. I've tried a couple times but have been too impatient to finish. Here's a couple visuals. Hopefully I'll get the nerve up to go after the blank today. -J

448

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 22, 2015, 04:38:09 AM »

Thanks TD, as always I appreciate the input.

I did a little 'analytical geometry' last night...um, I mean I took a saw to the practice nose and made some sections @ 3,6,12,18, and the end makes 30.5 inches.
 
With this sort of cutting/displacing nose, should I be striving for more 'V" along the bottom stringer from the nose back?

Bottom is the side with the saw handle.

Thanks, J

449

The Shape Shack / Re: 12-6' x 30" design tips

« on: July 19, 2015, 10:39:34 AM »

I took another whack at the practice piece today, a couple days after renting/paddling/studying a BIC Ace Tec Wing 12-6 and a few days after Lucabrasi showed me one of his boards via pictures (thanks again!). Hopefully I am getting this a little closer. Next time I think I'll buy one first, then try to make one...-J

450

Gear Talk / Re: Has anyone made their own board bag for day us?

« on: July 16, 2015, 08:04:43 AM »

I did one for a surfboard out of a torn motorboat cover (guessing PU coated polyester), 4$ of bulk zipper off the internet, and a old polyester blanket as a liner.  Not much to look at but the materials were next to free and it kept me away from the TV for a couple hours.  -J